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rolandpower5 Jan 2017 15:50Hello everyone,
I’m new here and have a big problem! I want to replace my side entrance door because it does not meet current standards for security and insulation. I have had a nice, sturdy new door designed, which is quite expensive. I’m not linking to anything here, but if anyone is interested in which company makes the door, I can share that in a separate thread.
The problem is that the old door, a fire-rated door installed as an exterior door to the basement, has an outside hinge and is surrounded by brick facing. So, the brick facing would need to be removed. It is completely intact and neatly built.
My questions: Is it possible to carefully remove the brick facing without causing much damage? Who usually does this kind of work? I don’t feel confident doing it myself!
Most likely, just removing the brick facing won’t be enough. That brings me to the next question. The frame or door jamb of the new door is much thicker, as is the door itself, like a modern front door...
Do I also need to alter the structural wall behind it, because otherwise I won’t be able to build the brick facing over the new frame? Basically, do I need to restore everything back to the original condition?
I wanted a modern and secure door, and this project is turning into a nightmare!
Thanks!
I’m new here and have a big problem! I want to replace my side entrance door because it does not meet current standards for security and insulation. I have had a nice, sturdy new door designed, which is quite expensive. I’m not linking to anything here, but if anyone is interested in which company makes the door, I can share that in a separate thread.
The problem is that the old door, a fire-rated door installed as an exterior door to the basement, has an outside hinge and is surrounded by brick facing. So, the brick facing would need to be removed. It is completely intact and neatly built.
My questions: Is it possible to carefully remove the brick facing without causing much damage? Who usually does this kind of work? I don’t feel confident doing it myself!
Most likely, just removing the brick facing won’t be enough. That brings me to the next question. The frame or door jamb of the new door is much thicker, as is the door itself, like a modern front door...
Do I also need to alter the structural wall behind it, because otherwise I won’t be able to build the brick facing over the new frame? Basically, do I need to restore everything back to the original condition?
I wanted a modern and secure door, and this project is turning into a nightmare!
Thanks!
R
rolandpower5 Jan 2017 17:10The door opens inward to the left. I assumed the new door would simply be mounted on the inside of the brick wall and screwed to the wall. But that’s not the case. This old steel frame was installed on the main wall before the bricks were laid on top. If the door seller is wrong, then everything is fine and I can place the order. Otherwise, I have a problem. I think I do have a problem. The bricks may no longer be replaceable as they were originally. Honestly, since I’m not a mason, I wonder who came up with the idea of embedding a door frame like this. Is this a common practice?
R
rolandpower5 Jan 2017 19:38Hello Yvonne,
I didn’t want to write a long message to avoid any misunderstandings. The backstory is quite long. Anyway, the door company representative came by yesterday and just told me that the door is hinged on the outside. He will ask the in-house installers if there is another solution. When the house was built, I didn’t know anything about these things; otherwise, I would have stopped the bricklayer. I’ve looked at dozens of pictures of old houses online, and nowhere do I see basement or side entrance doors where the door frame is mounted and bricked in from the outside!!!
Basically, my question is this: Is it possible to remove the facing brickwork cleanly and without damage, then have it rebricked? There is insulation under the facing bricks that must not get wet, etc. I see it like a skin that must not be damaged. The house doesn’t need renovation; otherwise, I would easily say, “Forget the facing bricks! Put on new ones anyway!” It’s just about a new modern door with a better U-value and burglary resistance, to put it simply.
I thought I could just buy a new door, have it professionally installed by the manufacturer, and that would be it. Unfortunately, that’s not the case. Maybe someone here has experience with this.
My advice to everyone building a house: Spend a bit more on entrance doors, and above all, don’t forget that side or basement doors are also entrance doors. Just because it’s a basement door doesn’t mean it should be simple and cheap. It should be at least RC-2 (burglary resistance class), and it should be insulated too!
I didn’t want to write a long message to avoid any misunderstandings. The backstory is quite long. Anyway, the door company representative came by yesterday and just told me that the door is hinged on the outside. He will ask the in-house installers if there is another solution. When the house was built, I didn’t know anything about these things; otherwise, I would have stopped the bricklayer. I’ve looked at dozens of pictures of old houses online, and nowhere do I see basement or side entrance doors where the door frame is mounted and bricked in from the outside!!!
Basically, my question is this: Is it possible to remove the facing brickwork cleanly and without damage, then have it rebricked? There is insulation under the facing bricks that must not get wet, etc. I see it like a skin that must not be damaged. The house doesn’t need renovation; otherwise, I would easily say, “Forget the facing bricks! Put on new ones anyway!” It’s just about a new modern door with a better U-value and burglary resistance, to put it simply.
I thought I could just buy a new door, have it professionally installed by the manufacturer, and that would be it. Unfortunately, that’s not the case. Maybe someone here has experience with this.
My advice to everyone building a house: Spend a bit more on entrance doors, and above all, don’t forget that side or basement doors are also entrance doors. Just because it’s a basement door doesn’t mean it should be simple and cheap. It should be at least RC-2 (burglary resistance class), and it should be insulated too!
Thank you for your email. You can generally send a private message by clicking on “Conversation” at the top right.
However, I am unable to assist you further. Normally, you would request a complete quote for something like this, including installation. If the carpenter says that a mason is required, then the mason will be hired.
Regards
However, I am unable to assist you further. Normally, you would request a complete quote for something like this, including installation. If the carpenter says that a mason is required, then the mason will be hired.
Regards
R
rolandpower6 Jan 2017 13:51Dearest Yvonne,
Your statement is absolutely correct!! That’s how it should be. If additional tradespeople are needed, they should be ordered along with the rest. Yes, exactly like that!! Unfortunately, in practice, it’s not the case. It even gets worse!! Some companies, manufacturers of building components, casually say without even seeing the site beforehand: "We don’t need to touch the exterior facade!"
I’m not using this forum for my own purposes but for everyone else here who is building... always get everything confirmed in writing from tradespeople, construction companies, and building material suppliers. Otherwise, you will face unpleasant surprises. Have you ever encountered a construction company that glued natural stone window sills on the outside with expanding foam? I have!! Granite with expanding foam!!! The natural stone is damaged by the foam and it doesn’t hold. That might work on aluminum...
Your statement is absolutely correct!! That’s how it should be. If additional tradespeople are needed, they should be ordered along with the rest. Yes, exactly like that!! Unfortunately, in practice, it’s not the case. It even gets worse!! Some companies, manufacturers of building components, casually say without even seeing the site beforehand: "We don’t need to touch the exterior facade!"
I’m not using this forum for my own purposes but for everyone else here who is building... always get everything confirmed in writing from tradespeople, construction companies, and building material suppliers. Otherwise, you will face unpleasant surprises. Have you ever encountered a construction company that glued natural stone window sills on the outside with expanding foam? I have!! Granite with expanding foam!!! The natural stone is damaged by the foam and it doesn’t hold. That might work on aluminum...
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