Hello,
we are planning to replace our old wooden windows (built in 1994) with new uPVC windows. We have received a quote for profiles from Veka. The price is fine, but we are unsure about the frame widths.
Current sash frame (wood): width (interior view) 74 mm (3 inches), including glazing bead.
Current outer frame (wood): width (interior view) 36 - 45 mm (1.4 - 1.8 inches) visible width.
Quote 1: outer frame 81 mm (3.2 inches) 101.354 SL76-AD, sash 84 mm (3.3 inches) 103.381 SL76 flv.
After consulting with the company, the following is also possible:
Quote 2: outer frame 71 mm (2.8 inches), sash frame 74 mm (3 inches).
With quote 2, we come closer to the current visible widths of our wooden windows. However, the installer mentioned during the measurement that the interior bead installation would be very difficult in that case. That sounds plausible.
Does anyone have experience with VEKA profiles? Would the combination of outer frame 81 mm (3.2 inches) + sash frame 74 mm (3 inches) work?
Regards
we are planning to replace our old wooden windows (built in 1994) with new uPVC windows. We have received a quote for profiles from Veka. The price is fine, but we are unsure about the frame widths.
Current sash frame (wood): width (interior view) 74 mm (3 inches), including glazing bead.
Current outer frame (wood): width (interior view) 36 - 45 mm (1.4 - 1.8 inches) visible width.
Quote 1: outer frame 81 mm (3.2 inches) 101.354 SL76-AD, sash 84 mm (3.3 inches) 103.381 SL76 flv.
After consulting with the company, the following is also possible:
Quote 2: outer frame 71 mm (2.8 inches), sash frame 74 mm (3 inches).
With quote 2, we come closer to the current visible widths of our wooden windows. However, the installer mentioned during the measurement that the interior bead installation would be very difficult in that case. That sounds plausible.
Does anyone have experience with VEKA profiles? Would the combination of outer frame 81 mm (3.2 inches) + sash frame 74 mm (3 inches) work?
Regards
The VEKA profiles are solid, whether from the SL76 series or others. The differences mainly concern insulation, appearance, and installation depth. When it comes to frame width, the key factors are appearance and loss of glass area. With an 81 mm (3.2 inches) outer frame and 84 mm (3.3 inches) sash, you lose noticeably more glass area compared to the narrower version, but you usually get easier glazing bead installation and a more stable construction. A 71 mm (2.8 inches) outer frame with a 74 mm (2.9 inches) sash looks closer to your old wooden windows but requires precise detailing for the interior glazing bead. The combination of an 81 mm (3.2 inches) outer frame with a 74 mm (2.9 inches) sash is technically no problem but depends on profile compatibility. This needs to be checked by the window fabricator. In the end, it’s a compromise between appearance (narrow profiles) and ease of installation and stability (wider profiles).
A crystal ball suggests this is a single- or multi-family house of unknown construction type, built in 1994. If that is the case, for some reason, 31-year-old wooden windows are supposed to be replaced with new plastic windows (hopefully with a Ug value of 0.5 triple-glazed thermal insulation glass and, hopefully, warm edge spacers—i.e., a thermally improved insulating glass edge seal).
If the visible frame widths are really important to you (which is usually not the case), I would recommend removing the plaster on the room-side window reveals before installing the new windows. This allows for optimal window sizes with narrow frames and the slimmest sash profiles. Fully concealed fittings are also an option; this can result in even narrower visible frame widths than standard wooden windows from the 1990s.
At the same time, with removed plaster (= no cover strips, which looks better), airtight installation on the room side and insulation of the window sills, window sill connections, and window reveals are usually better, which helps to avoid condensation and mold. This, along with the generally required ventilation concept according to DIN standards, almost always makes sense for buildings from 1994.
Of course, this costs significantly more than the usual quick, standard window replacement... which is why it is almost never done for simple window swaps.
If the visible frame widths are really important to you (which is usually not the case), I would recommend removing the plaster on the room-side window reveals before installing the new windows. This allows for optimal window sizes with narrow frames and the slimmest sash profiles. Fully concealed fittings are also an option; this can result in even narrower visible frame widths than standard wooden windows from the 1990s.
At the same time, with removed plaster (= no cover strips, which looks better), airtight installation on the room side and insulation of the window sills, window sill connections, and window reveals are usually better, which helps to avoid condensation and mold. This, along with the generally required ventilation concept according to DIN standards, almost always makes sense for buildings from 1994.
Of course, this costs significantly more than the usual quick, standard window replacement... which is why it is almost never done for simple window swaps.
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