ᐅ New heat pump to replace oil heating with existing radiators

The house was "truly well insulated" in 1990. Since then, expectations for insulation have increased significantly.

I built my house in 1990 and insulated it with 14cm (5.5 inches) of Isover, which was roughly the standard at the time, plus wooden cladding underneath the roof tiles. However, the upper floor never reached 40 degrees Celsius (104°F), and normal living conditions were always possible there.

ajokr2025 schrieb:

I decided on R290 for heating and R32 for cooling. The cooling is fully covered by the subsidy for heating. The price difference per kW is quite significant.
If one fails, the other still works until the builder comes.

Can both be done with one heat pump? What type do you have?

strzata schrieb:

Is it possible with one heat pump? What type do you have?

No, each outdoor unit operates with only one refrigerant circuit. I have the Vaillant Arotherm plus VWL 55/6, and the cooling is provided by Fujitsu with a cooling capacity of 4.4 kW (15,000 BTU/h). The total cost was 35,000 € compared to 7,000 € for everything included, such as two new radiators and two indoor air conditioning units. One outdoor unit is placed at the front of the house, the other at the back.

So, you can definitely cool with a heat pump, but only through underfloor heating, and you have to manage the dehumidification yourself. The air conditioner disposes of condensate outdoors as standard.

But of course, both can heat.

Something unusual happened. Enpal wanted to make me an offer. When I provided them my data over the phone, the employee said their system showed everything in “red,” meaning the project was not feasible as it stood. I suggested that instead of entering oil consumption, they input 6,000 times 3,000 liters per year, and then it worked. They plan to prepare the offer based on that.

Yesterday, the owner of a heating company came by to check the heating system. He was shocked. Everything was completely misconfigured. No wonder the oil consumption is so high. He advised me to temporarily set the flow temperature to 45°C (113°F) and then see if the whole house still heats properly. If not, I should gradually increase the temperature. This way, it would be possible to determine if and which heat pump could be installed.

However, I don’t know how to do this. Does anyone have a similar burner? It is a Fröling Wärmecenter 16/30 MyPromat 2000 Series 03. I can see that the boiler temperature is set to 80°C (176°F) (almost at maximum) and the burner starts when the temperature falls below this value. The timer is set to control heating times on a daily basis for the main heating circuit (practice) with a mixing valve and the secondary heating circuit (apartment) on a second weekly timer.

Where should I make adjustments now to lower the flow temperature? The user manual only shows how to set maximum limits (maximum flow temperature limit). Or should I turn down the boiler temperature controller? Or should I change something on the controller’s heating curve?

strzata schrieb:

Fröling Wärmecenter 16/30 MyPromat 2000 Series 03

Oh dear, the company has been insolvent for quite some time, and pellet boilers are now being sold under that name.
The MyPromat 2000 controller is identical to the RVP75.230 from Landis&Gyr as well as Oertli. You can still find the operating manual for the latter online.
You need to adjust the heating curve using ADAPT, which is explained on page 7 of the Oertli manual. This needs to be done separately for both heating circuits 1 and 2.
It’s best to get an infrared thermometer and measure the temperatures of the pipes yourself to see what effect the settings have after some running time. This always depends on the outside temperature.
Hopefully, your system has an outdoor temperature sensor installed.

By the way, Enpal is just another multi-level marketing company, similar to DWW, but with somewhat better equipment.