ᐅ New Construction, Wood-Burning Stove, Nominal Heat Output—What Now?
Created on: 8 Nov 2017 10:08
O
onyx.dop
Hello everyone,
We are currently planning a new build and would like to include a wood-burning stove (a heating insert built with firebrick) in the open living/dining/kitchen area. The goal is to slightly reduce the load on the air-to-water heat pump and create a cozy atmosphere.
My heat load calculation based on the U-value shows that for 64m² (living/dining/kitchen + hallway connected by two doors) we need a maximum heating capacity of about 2.3 kW. This includes all external walls (approximately U-value 0.19) and floor construction (0.16).
If I install a stove with a nominal heat output of 9 kW and an output range of 3.2 to 10.9 kW, won’t I overheat the space even at the minimum wood feed rate (3.2 kW)? According to the stove fitter, this is not a problem because the heat output can be controlled by adjusting the amount of wood.
The 2.3 kW figure also refers to the worst-case scenario of -16°C (3°F) outside and +23°C (73°F) inside, without any other heat sources. So, in reality, the required heating capacity will likely be much lower than 2.3 kW.
What is the best approach? Should I choose a stove insert with the lowest possible heat output range?
Best regards.
We are currently planning a new build and would like to include a wood-burning stove (a heating insert built with firebrick) in the open living/dining/kitchen area. The goal is to slightly reduce the load on the air-to-water heat pump and create a cozy atmosphere.
My heat load calculation based on the U-value shows that for 64m² (living/dining/kitchen + hallway connected by two doors) we need a maximum heating capacity of about 2.3 kW. This includes all external walls (approximately U-value 0.19) and floor construction (0.16).
If I install a stove with a nominal heat output of 9 kW and an output range of 3.2 to 10.9 kW, won’t I overheat the space even at the minimum wood feed rate (3.2 kW)? According to the stove fitter, this is not a problem because the heat output can be controlled by adjusting the amount of wood.
The 2.3 kW figure also refers to the worst-case scenario of -16°C (3°F) outside and +23°C (73°F) inside, without any other heat sources. So, in reality, the required heating capacity will likely be much lower than 2.3 kW.
What is the best approach? Should I choose a stove insert with the lowest possible heat output range?
Best regards.
Joedreck schrieb:
Actually, with proper design, the self-regulating effect does apply. You can find information on Google.
For a simple wood stove without any water circuit, this is rather unlikely. Since the combustion chamber has to be relatively small for low power output, you would need to continuously add fuel over a long period (>12 hours) to make use of the self-regulating effect. Nobody does that with a cozy fire.
A friend had a very small masonry stove installed in his house built according to the 2014 energy saving regulations, with a relatively large heat storage mass; costs were around 8,000 without the chimney. It works well in the large room (about 60m² (645 sq ft)). In our nearly KfW40 standard house, it could still work, but probably only just barely.
Isn’t the self-regulating effect already present in the way the heat emission from the floor to the air automatically decreases when the temperature difference between the floor and the air becomes smaller?
If the room temperature is raised to around 23 to 24°C (73 to 75°F) by the wood-burning stove, the heating system stops releasing any heat. This should happen relatively quickly with a wood-burning stove.
If the room temperature is raised to around 23 to 24°C (73 to 75°F) by the wood-burning stove, the heating system stops releasing any heat. This should happen relatively quickly with a wood-burning stove.
@HilfeHilfe: I would hope that with the additional heat from the fireplace, I could slightly reduce the temperature setting of the underfloor heating.
A mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery is planned.
I believe I am referring to a type of "masonry heater" as mentioned by Domski. So, a combustion chamber surrounded by firebricks (total weight around 1 ton (2,200 lbs)), without water. In this case, a combustion unit with as low output as possible would probably be most effective, right?
A mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery is planned.
I believe I am referring to a type of "masonry heater" as mentioned by Domski. So, a combustion chamber surrounded by firebricks (total weight around 1 ton (2,200 lbs)), without water. In this case, a combustion unit with as low output as possible would probably be most effective, right?
In my opinion, after 2-3 years of heating system optimization (without irregular influences from solar panels or a fireplace), once you have adjusted your heating curves to your individual habits, the effect of the "new" wears off. This means the fireplace is no longer lit several times a week, but only occasionally, because otherwise it becomes too much effort. As a result, you adjust the heating curve again so that the system works without the fireplace.
By the way, the bathroom is the room that the heating curve is based on, not the living room. Ideally, the fireplace should be located in the bathroom to help lower the heating curve.
By the way, the bathroom is the room that the heating curve is based on, not the living room. Ideally, the fireplace should be located in the bathroom to help lower the heating curve.
Musketier schrieb:
Isn’t the self-regulating effect already in place, where the heat release from the floor to the air automatically decreases as the temperature difference between the floor and the air becomes smaller?
When the room temperature is raised to about 23 to 24°C (73 to 75°F) by the wood stove, the heating system no longer releases any heat at all. This should be achieved relatively quickly with a wood stove. Exactly. The building has a heating demand; it doesn’t matter to the building (its heat losses) what type of heat generation covers this demand. Ideally, a well-positioned room thermostat would regulate the heat pump, reducing or even switching it off once the desired room temperature is reached. This works better in open-plan designs (few interior doors, open staircases, galleries, etc.) than in a small living room with a constantly closed door.
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