ᐅ Neighbor is building their semi-detached house – should the verge be adjusted?
Created on: 6 Aug 2015 23:38
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Christian AHSC
Christian AHS6 Aug 2015 23:38Hello everyone,
About six months ago, the neighboring plot was sold by the municipality.
The new neighbor is already busy with an extension.
The problem, however, will be that we installed a verge tile at the time.
It was unknown whether or when someone would be building next door.
At least my extension wall has a basic render (I believe silicate-based).
Braas Harzer Pfanne 7 (BIG)
The building was constructed 2cm (about 1 inch) away from the boundary.
My neighbor is building with 36cm (14 inches) aerated concrete blocks and has built directly on the boundary line.
A 2cm (about 1 inch) sound insulation layer made of mineral wool will be installed.
However, my verge tile and the wooden roof substructure currently project about 4-5cm (2-2 inches) over the boundary towards his property.
See picture.
Unfortunately, the perspective is not perfect – there is 2cm (about 1 inch) of insulation on the side of the wall to insulate the ring beam concrete at the time, so that the plaster inside (in winter without heating) could dry – this will soon be removed once the neighbor starts building.
According to the neighborhood law in Baden-Württemberg, the party responsible for the overhang must compensate the other party for any damage or costs – which in this case would mean I would have to pay for his changes to the masonry or structural work.
Therefore, I first have to shorten the parts on my side so that he pays for his extension on my property.
Shorten the wooden substructure by about 1-2cm (0.5-1 inch) – but completely trim the verge tile around the “fold.”
I want to wait until his upper floor slab is poured to have a precise template.
Aerial lift – probably too expensive?
Unscrew the gable tile and then I should be able to unscrew/remove all verge tiles as well?
Cut the tiles with a grinder.
If necessary, plane the wood by about 1-2cm (0.5-1 inch), or use a jigsaw if there is more room?
I might have to adjust the end of the gutter by 1-2cm (0.5-1 inch).
Aside from the grinder dust and the fact I’m only semi-comfortable with heights, this shouldn’t be such a big job, right?
Please share your opinions.
Thanks & regards,
Chris
About six months ago, the neighboring plot was sold by the municipality.
The new neighbor is already busy with an extension.
The problem, however, will be that we installed a verge tile at the time.
It was unknown whether or when someone would be building next door.
At least my extension wall has a basic render (I believe silicate-based).
Braas Harzer Pfanne 7 (BIG)
The building was constructed 2cm (about 1 inch) away from the boundary.
My neighbor is building with 36cm (14 inches) aerated concrete blocks and has built directly on the boundary line.
A 2cm (about 1 inch) sound insulation layer made of mineral wool will be installed.
However, my verge tile and the wooden roof substructure currently project about 4-5cm (2-2 inches) over the boundary towards his property.
See picture.
Unfortunately, the perspective is not perfect – there is 2cm (about 1 inch) of insulation on the side of the wall to insulate the ring beam concrete at the time, so that the plaster inside (in winter without heating) could dry – this will soon be removed once the neighbor starts building.
According to the neighborhood law in Baden-Württemberg, the party responsible for the overhang must compensate the other party for any damage or costs – which in this case would mean I would have to pay for his changes to the masonry or structural work.
Therefore, I first have to shorten the parts on my side so that he pays for his extension on my property.
Shorten the wooden substructure by about 1-2cm (0.5-1 inch) – but completely trim the verge tile around the “fold.”
I want to wait until his upper floor slab is poured to have a precise template.
Aerial lift – probably too expensive?
Unscrew the gable tile and then I should be able to unscrew/remove all verge tiles as well?
Cut the tiles with a grinder.
If necessary, plane the wood by about 1-2cm (0.5-1 inch), or use a jigsaw if there is more room?
I might have to adjust the end of the gutter by 1-2cm (0.5-1 inch).
Aside from the grinder dust and the fact I’m only semi-comfortable with heights, this shouldn’t be such a big job, right?
Please share your opinions.
Thanks & regards,
Chris
C
Christian AHS7 Aug 2015 10:02The specification comes from him
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