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SimonMoers23 Jan 2017 09:32Hello everyone,
we are currently having issues with moisture. Our building has 2.5 stories with a hip roof. The living space is only on the ground floor and first floor, with a wooden beam ceiling and particle boards; the roof is unheated. The screed was poured and plastered two months ago. Everything was left as is for a while because we only got the electricity two weeks ago, so we could start heating and drying then. My thought was that we should first insulate the upper floor briefly (rafter ceiling with glass wool and a vapor retarder) and then heat and dry. We have now done this and also ran a screed drying program (reaching up to 45°C (113°F)). For the last 10 days, we have been airing by shock ventilation, heating, and drying 24/7.
Yesterday, the shock: water on the vapor retarder on the interior walls where the sheets overlap. We removed the sheets and of course everything was soaking wet, took down the insulation wool, and by this morning it had dried again. But light mold had already started. What would be the best approach now? Apparently, moisture from the plaster on the walls managed to bypass the vapor retarder through the hollow bricks and condensed on the particle boards.
Is there a way to protect the particle boards and the rafter ceiling that can be applied?
Do you think this was just a one-time wetting due to the drying of the screed and plaster?
The vapor retarder was definitely sealed properly—I installed it myself 100%. I don’t really understand how so much water could appear so quickly; after all, it was only a few days.
Is there a rule of thumb that states under which temperature and humidity conditions mold cannot form?
How can the ceiling be dried and sealed at the same time? Since the vapor retarder is now open, would it help to drill ventilation holes through the particle boards from the attic and artificially heat the roof structure with a construction dryer and heaters, so it’s not as cold up there and condensation doesn’t form below?
we are currently having issues with moisture. Our building has 2.5 stories with a hip roof. The living space is only on the ground floor and first floor, with a wooden beam ceiling and particle boards; the roof is unheated. The screed was poured and plastered two months ago. Everything was left as is for a while because we only got the electricity two weeks ago, so we could start heating and drying then. My thought was that we should first insulate the upper floor briefly (rafter ceiling with glass wool and a vapor retarder) and then heat and dry. We have now done this and also ran a screed drying program (reaching up to 45°C (113°F)). For the last 10 days, we have been airing by shock ventilation, heating, and drying 24/7.
Yesterday, the shock: water on the vapor retarder on the interior walls where the sheets overlap. We removed the sheets and of course everything was soaking wet, took down the insulation wool, and by this morning it had dried again. But light mold had already started. What would be the best approach now? Apparently, moisture from the plaster on the walls managed to bypass the vapor retarder through the hollow bricks and condensed on the particle boards.
Is there a way to protect the particle boards and the rafter ceiling that can be applied?
Do you think this was just a one-time wetting due to the drying of the screed and plaster?
The vapor retarder was definitely sealed properly—I installed it myself 100%. I don’t really understand how so much water could appear so quickly; after all, it was only a few days.
Is there a rule of thumb that states under which temperature and humidity conditions mold cannot form?
How can the ceiling be dried and sealed at the same time? Since the vapor retarder is now open, would it help to drill ventilation holes through the particle boards from the attic and artificially heat the roof structure with a construction dryer and heaters, so it’s not as cold up there and condensation doesn’t form below?
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