ᐅ Materials for Paving a Driveway

I need to correct myself — I initially considered the price difference only for the 20cm (8 inches) base layer, not for the entire amount. So it turns out to be somewhat more expensive than I thought once I include the whole frost protection layer... Accordingly, I'm reconsidering what exactly I will install.

Yes, the price difference is probably somewhat larger now. Basically, there is nothing wrong with RCL. You just need to be careful that the fine content is not too high and that there is not too much brick chipping in it. Otherwise, I get annoyed when I find construction waste like reinforcement leftovers, bits of paper, and insulation anchors mixed in. The only things missing are cigarette butts and beer bottles. Roots are often included as well. Since I place everything by hand, I can sort out the debris quite well. Of course, every landscaping contractor laughs at this because they don’t understand why I don’t dig out the dirty subbase only to add new dirty material on top. But once you have placed the recycled concrete damp, it compacts very well. Finally, apply an iron oxide hardener with a brush and finish with one last pass of the vibrator, which gives you a concrete-hard surface. Just never place individual layers thicker than 20cm (8 inches) and make sure to build the slope into the subbase from the start.

Frost protection is generally a highly debated topic: even professional companies and skilled tradespeople swear by dismissing it, although it is included in every technical regulation for all paving and slab installations. Clearly, it costs money and time. People often skip it and just wait to see how the surfaces hold up after the first winter. Of course, you can also lay small-format paving directly on 20cm (8 inches) of gravel plus a bedding layer of chippings. In the past, fieldstones were placed directly into the topsoil. But everyone knows how the walking and driving quality is on that. If you only remove the topsoil and the remaining soil down to the frost depth is well-draining, deformation can be limited if there is little clay and loam. If you have poorly draining soil, it will get worse. There will also be problems outside the frost period if the subbase becomes saturated with water and heaves upwards. Therefore, dig a test pit and carefully assess your subsoil if you don’t want to opt for the safest solution, which is soil replacement.

Oh, when digging here, we also found quite a few things... No beer bottles, though, but parts of old telegraph poles. Our landscaper, who currently doesn’t have time to do the work, told us that the soil is good enough so that we don’t need additional frost protection. There is no clay or loam in the soil either. He recommended adding a 20–25cm (8–10 inch) base layer and compacting it well.

So we’ve already started excavating the driveway ourselves. Using just muscle power, hoe, and shovel... tiring, but it hasn’t done any harm to someone like me who usually works in an office so far...

Let’s leave the signing to the busy professional surveyor! Unfortunately, you can’t easily hold them liable since you’re managing the project yourself.
If you find that much contamination, the surrounding soil is also “polluted,” so you’ll need to excavate even more. The mast was probably already at the stage of organic topsoil decomposition.

Before compacting a base course, the subbase must be leveled, graded for proper slope, and also compacted.
What surface are you planning to put on top, and how will you handle the curbs or edges?

The telegraph pole was not found in the driveway area but during the basement excavation. I just found it funny what you can come across during construction. Of course, I could hold him liable, but we don’t want to. He is an acquaintance of my father-in-law and is only advising us on these matters because he is currently unable to do the work himself.

The slope is clear, and we have already marked everything accordingly and completed the preparations so that the base layer naturally follows the slope. This ensures that the same thickness of the load-bearing layer is installed and compacted everywhere.

By the way, the paving will be laid with 16 x 24 cm (6 x 9.5 inch) interlocking pavers from Jasto. I’m not sure if I’m allowed to share a link here? We have already concreted the curbs, using 8 x 30 x 100 cm (3 x 12 x 39 inch) deep curbs. Those things were quite heavy...

The paving looks very sturdy. When quickly reviewing the installation instructions, I noticed that using 20cm (8 inches) of gravel for these stones and the expected load is right at the minimum limit. You might want to consider increasing it by another 10cm (4 inches), especially since you are already reducing the frost protection layer. It would be a shame to compromise such a high-quality surface.

By the way, next door I can clearly observe how a professional concrete stone pavement develops under constant parking and traffic: first, 1 meter (3 feet) of soil was piled up without compaction, then a geotextile fabric, followed by 50cm (20 inches) of recycled crushed layer (RCL) 0/32, compacted in only one layer, then fine sand, stones placed, joints filled with fine sand and compacted once with a plate compactor. The area is only about 4 weeks old and already deformed. This is how contractors work who don’t have to worry at all about subbase and frost protection.