Hello,
since all the developers so far have refused to include a garage in their offer (referring me to prefabricated garage manufacturers), I want to ask how and where you have built your garages and what the price differences are.
I definitely want to make full use of the 6x9m (20x30 ft) boundary build limit.
Ideally, I would prefer a double garage, but apparently, that is too expensive...
If necessary, a carport would also work, but a carport of that size with a storage shed wouldn’t be much cheaper, right? Especially since I would still have to pave the area...
Are prefabricated garages any good? The house will have a brick veneer, and I think with a prefabricated garage I would lose a lot of interior space due to the double exterior walls.
Also, I would like to have a door connecting to the utility room.
I look forward to your answers...
Thank you in advance!
since all the developers so far have refused to include a garage in their offer (referring me to prefabricated garage manufacturers), I want to ask how and where you have built your garages and what the price differences are.
I definitely want to make full use of the 6x9m (20x30 ft) boundary build limit.
Ideally, I would prefer a double garage, but apparently, that is too expensive...
If necessary, a carport would also work, but a carport of that size with a storage shed wouldn’t be much cheaper, right? Especially since I would still have to pave the area...
Are prefabricated garages any good? The house will have a brick veneer, and I think with a prefabricated garage I would lose a lot of interior space due to the double exterior walls.
Also, I would like to have a door connecting to the utility room.
I look forward to your answers...
Thank you in advance!
B
Baumhaus.Bau27 Jun 2017 12:51It depends on the foundation required.
My father needed strip footings for his precast concrete garage (6 x 9 m, which is divided into 3 sections). He used 4 strip footings. You can do this yourself.
Costs: One weekend of work, a concrete mixer, cement, sand, reinforcement. At most around 300 € (about $320).
My father needed strip footings for his precast concrete garage (6 x 9 m, which is divided into 3 sections). He used 4 strip footings. You can do this yourself.
Costs: One weekend of work, a concrete mixer, cement, sand, reinforcement. At most around 300 € (about $320).
Hello everyone. I’m Alex, 32 years old, from Dortmund. I’m planning to build a garage measuring 6x9m (20x30 feet).
I have received quotes from prefabricated garage manufacturers, but I find them quite expensive. Prices for a precast concrete garage range from €28,000 to €32,000 (without foundation). For a timber frame garage, the price is around €20,000, also excluding the foundation. I estimate about €2,000 for the foundation.
I’m fairly skilled in DIY work. Now my question about building the garage myself in solid construction (masonry):
Structural design / engineering: €800
Material costs for sand-lime bricks including mortar: €3,800
Roof structure: €2,500 for a pitched roof
Garage door, electric, from Novoferm: €2,800 (5000x2250 mm (197x89 inches))
Window: €150
Rear door: €600
Machines/tools partly available, but still: €500
Helpers for the project (shell construction): €1,500
Electrical installation: €600
Plaster / facing bricks: €1,500
That adds up to a total of €12,350.
Obviously, this will take time, but I have plenty of that. I plan to do a lot of the work myself, including floor finishing, paving, etc. I have 60 days of vacation plus overtime available for this.
My question to you: Is this estimate fairly realistic? I’m not concerned about a difference of €500 or so.
My wife set a garage budget of €20,000.
Thanks and best regards,
Alex
I have received quotes from prefabricated garage manufacturers, but I find them quite expensive. Prices for a precast concrete garage range from €28,000 to €32,000 (without foundation). For a timber frame garage, the price is around €20,000, also excluding the foundation. I estimate about €2,000 for the foundation.
I’m fairly skilled in DIY work. Now my question about building the garage myself in solid construction (masonry):
Structural design / engineering: €800
Material costs for sand-lime bricks including mortar: €3,800
Roof structure: €2,500 for a pitched roof
Garage door, electric, from Novoferm: €2,800 (5000x2250 mm (197x89 inches))
Window: €150
Rear door: €600
Machines/tools partly available, but still: €500
Helpers for the project (shell construction): €1,500
Electrical installation: €600
Plaster / facing bricks: €1,500
That adds up to a total of €12,350.
Obviously, this will take time, but I have plenty of that. I plan to do a lot of the work myself, including floor finishing, paving, etc. I have 60 days of vacation plus overtime available for this.
My question to you: Is this estimate fairly realistic? I’m not concerned about a difference of €500 or so.
My wife set a garage budget of €20,000.
Thanks and best regards,
Alex
What do you mean by Fd construction? How do you plan to seal it?
Keep in mind that plaster and brick cladding alone will cost more than 1500, considering you easily have 100m2 (1076 sq ft) inside and outside.
How do you plan to finish the garage floor? Tiles? Then you will need a screed as well.
Another 1500 euros,
Tiles will also cost at least 1000 euros—you can’t use 10 euro pieces and have a car parked on them; they will crack.
Excavate the foundation.
Keep in mind that plaster and brick cladding alone will cost more than 1500, considering you easily have 100m2 (1076 sq ft) inside and outside.
How do you plan to finish the garage floor? Tiles? Then you will need a screed as well.
Another 1500 euros,
Tiles will also cost at least 1000 euros—you can’t use 10 euro pieces and have a car parked on them; they will crack.
Excavate the foundation.
Hello Tomtom,
Thanks for the quick response. Only the front and possibly the rear will be clad with brick veneer. The side facing the neighbor will be finished with a textured roller plaster. No brick veneer will be used there.
I don’t plan to plaster the interior. I haven’t considered it so far. The calcium silicate blocks look fine. It’s not intended to be a living room anyway.
The garage will be built on a poured concrete foundation, and the floor will later be "just" sealed. I restore classic cars, so there will be a fair amount of oil on the floor temporarily. I think sealing will work well for that.
What do you think about the overall estimate? Feasible?
PS: FD = flat roof. Wood/concrete construction, sealed with roofing felt.
Best regards,
Alex
Thanks for the quick response. Only the front and possibly the rear will be clad with brick veneer. The side facing the neighbor will be finished with a textured roller plaster. No brick veneer will be used there.
I don’t plan to plaster the interior. I haven’t considered it so far. The calcium silicate blocks look fine. It’s not intended to be a living room anyway.
The garage will be built on a poured concrete foundation, and the floor will later be "just" sealed. I restore classic cars, so there will be a fair amount of oil on the floor temporarily. I think sealing will work well for that.
What do you think about the overall estimate? Feasible?
PS: FD = flat roof. Wood/concrete construction, sealed with roofing felt.
Best regards,
Alex
Hello Pentox,
what is the current status of your garage?
When you say "wood/concrete" for the roof, do you mean that the "masonry crown/attic covering" is made of wood and the roof is precast concrete, or that the slope is created with a wooden substructure?
I have a similar plan.
Specs:
Double garage: 7m x 8m x 2.8m (23ft x 26ft x 9ft)
Roof: flat roof; semi-precast concrete slab to be poured (no wooden formwork for the "masonry crown")
Sectional door (north side): 5500mm x 2250mm (electric) (18ft x 7ft)
Double window + large door (south side)
Strip foundation with filler stones + reinforcement
Paved driveway/floor
With lighting, power outlets, sink, etc.
Interior walls: simple plaster; exterior walls: same plaster as the house
The project will be mostly self-performed except for the attic covering.
According to my research, such a garage as we plan costs around €20,000.
I have budgeted €20,000 myself and am confident this will be sufficient.
@all:
What do you think about the slope of a flat roof?
According to the roofing association, there should be a 3% slope. However, my builder says it is even better to have 0% slope for the waterproofing. His reasoning is that the waterproofing will not frequently experience changes from wet to dry and vice versa. He said this can be observed in wooden logs stored in water: the fully wet and fully dry parts are fine, but the area constantly switching between wet and dry is not optimal.
Best regards,
Chris
what is the current status of your garage?
When you say "wood/concrete" for the roof, do you mean that the "masonry crown/attic covering" is made of wood and the roof is precast concrete, or that the slope is created with a wooden substructure?
I have a similar plan.
Specs:
Double garage: 7m x 8m x 2.8m (23ft x 26ft x 9ft)
Roof: flat roof; semi-precast concrete slab to be poured (no wooden formwork for the "masonry crown")
Sectional door (north side): 5500mm x 2250mm (electric) (18ft x 7ft)
Double window + large door (south side)
Strip foundation with filler stones + reinforcement
Paved driveway/floor
With lighting, power outlets, sink, etc.
Interior walls: simple plaster; exterior walls: same plaster as the house
The project will be mostly self-performed except for the attic covering.
According to my research, such a garage as we plan costs around €20,000.
I have budgeted €20,000 myself and am confident this will be sufficient.
@all:
What do you think about the slope of a flat roof?
According to the roofing association, there should be a 3% slope. However, my builder says it is even better to have 0% slope for the waterproofing. His reasoning is that the waterproofing will not frequently experience changes from wet to dry and vice versa. He said this can be observed in wooden logs stored in water: the fully wet and fully dry parts are fine, but the area constantly switching between wet and dry is not optimal.
Best regards,
Chris
Chris_B schrieb:
My structural engineer thinks that having 0% slope is actually better for waterproofing. The reasoning: the waterproofing isn't exposed as often to changes from dry to wet and back. I love this kind of folk wisdom.
Theoretically, with a “zero slope,” the water level drops evenly toward the drain and disappears—at least as long as the drain is located in the center of the surface (and—something that’s unlikely—the flow doesn’t create a vortex in the drain). In practice, such ideal laboratory conditions can be safely filed away with myths and legends. A vortex will form in the drainpipe, water in the corners will take the longest to disappear, and while a central drain in a flat roof over a double garage is possible, who really wants that? What theoretically supports the even drying through uniform drainage with “zero slope” (and assumes the sun is directly overhead above the garage center, of course) is always contradicted by the fact that in practice the surface flatness is never perfect. This means a collection of small puddles where water only evaporates.
With a 3° slope (about 5%) leading to a corner drain, you’ll be well served in practice, despite any well-meaning rules of thumb.
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