Hello everyone,
As the topic suggests, I would like to consider how to build a private home as cost-effectively as possible while staying up to current "technology" standards and without compromising on size. The focus is initially on relatively inexpensive construction, with further modifications planned from the start but intended to be implemented only after several years (more on this later).
Perhaps you can confirm or refute my ideas or share your own.
I have given the following thoughts:
- Square and practical design (without bay windows, curves, overhangs, or other extras)
- Raised basement (full basement) to reduce earth excavation
- Use excavated earth to raise the plot or parts of it (saves on removal)
- Plan the raised basement partly as living space (e.g., bedrooms, full bathroom, utility room, additional rooms) to reduce the building footprint
- Flat roof (likely the most economical option)
- Open floor plan to reduce interior walls (living room, dining room, hallway, and kitchen)
- Central installation shaft (for water, heating, ventilation, wastewater, electricity)
- Heating, bathrooms, and kitchen located directly adjacent to the installation shaft
- Electrical installation integrated into baseboards except for kitchen and bathroom (if permitted), ceiling lighting omitted
- Underfloor heating in all inhabited rooms, provision for later installation in others
- Use standard dimensions for windows and doors, possibly allow for lintels for larger sizes
In addition, the following wishes should be planned but implemented at a later stage:
- Structural design of masonry to allow adding a second floor
- Prepare garage in basement by installing a lintel
- Reserve staircase or at least space for it to the second floor
- Provision for external basement stairs lintel
Self-performed work could include:
- Kit house, for example using calcium silicate bricks or aerated concrete with expert guidance
- Installation of heating pipes, water supply and drainage (apprenticeship/professional experience)
- Electrical installation (family support)
- Site drainage / foundation drainage (apprenticeship/professional experience)
- Complete interior finishing (partially professional experience)
As the topic suggests, I would like to consider how to build a private home as cost-effectively as possible while staying up to current "technology" standards and without compromising on size. The focus is initially on relatively inexpensive construction, with further modifications planned from the start but intended to be implemented only after several years (more on this later).
Perhaps you can confirm or refute my ideas or share your own.
I have given the following thoughts:
- Square and practical design (without bay windows, curves, overhangs, or other extras)
- Raised basement (full basement) to reduce earth excavation
- Use excavated earth to raise the plot or parts of it (saves on removal)
- Plan the raised basement partly as living space (e.g., bedrooms, full bathroom, utility room, additional rooms) to reduce the building footprint
- Flat roof (likely the most economical option)
- Open floor plan to reduce interior walls (living room, dining room, hallway, and kitchen)
- Central installation shaft (for water, heating, ventilation, wastewater, electricity)
- Heating, bathrooms, and kitchen located directly adjacent to the installation shaft
- Electrical installation integrated into baseboards except for kitchen and bathroom (if permitted), ceiling lighting omitted
- Underfloor heating in all inhabited rooms, provision for later installation in others
- Use standard dimensions for windows and doors, possibly allow for lintels for larger sizes
In addition, the following wishes should be planned but implemented at a later stage:
- Structural design of masonry to allow adding a second floor
- Prepare garage in basement by installing a lintel
- Reserve staircase or at least space for it to the second floor
- Provision for external basement stairs lintel
Self-performed work could include:
- Kit house, for example using calcium silicate bricks or aerated concrete with expert guidance
- Installation of heating pipes, water supply and drainage (apprenticeship/professional experience)
- Electrical installation (family support)
- Site drainage / foundation drainage (apprenticeship/professional experience)
- Complete interior finishing (partially professional experience)
Skip the basement, and you’ll already save a lot.
I also believe there should be a minimum standard of “typical” construction, because that is what saves costs. Additionally, it ensures a typical market value for the house.
In my opinion, many of the points mentioned above actually lead to a significant increase in costs.
I also believe there should be a minimum standard of “typical” construction, because that is what saves costs. Additionally, it ensures a typical market value for the house.
In my opinion, many of the points mentioned above actually lead to a significant increase in costs.
Where will the money for the second floor come from in a few years? If you are actually expecting a significant financial windfall, it might be better to consider a partial build-out.
From my own experience, all the good intentions and ideas don’t help much; what you really need is a planner who is willing and capable of executing such an unconventional building style.
My advice: Assess your own financial capacity and then explore what the market offers. Everything else will likely lead to poor results.
Regards, Ben
From my own experience, all the good intentions and ideas don’t help much; what you really need is a planner who is willing and capable of executing such an unconventional building style.
My advice: Assess your own financial capacity and then explore what the market offers. Everything else will likely lead to poor results.
Regards, Ben
I’m also not a fan of high-interest loans – they only disturb family harmony. It’s better to buy the land now, make payments on it, and start building once you have a bit more equity or income. Otherwise, I don’t think a flat roof is always the cheapest option (please correct me if I’m wrong).
Have you ever considered buying an old, used house and renovating it? (It’s certainly not necessarily cheaper overall, but it can be easier to finance in stages – for example: electrical work this year, rooms 2 and 3 next, and then a new bathroom, etc.)
Have you ever considered buying an old, used house and renovating it? (It’s certainly not necessarily cheaper overall, but it can be easier to finance in stages – for example: electrical work this year, rooms 2 and 3 next, and then a new bathroom, etc.)
B
Bauexperte23 Nov 2014 12:07Hello,
affordable or rather cheap?
Regards, Bauexperte
affordable or rather cheap?
Mr.Magou schrieb:You can't really decide that yet, since it depends on the permitted eave or ridge height for the plot. Moreover, what you might "save" on earthworks, you will largely spend again on insulation and plaster for the additionally exposed facade.
- Raised basement (full basement) to reduce excavation
Mr.Magou schrieb:That depends on what the soil survey shows. If there is clay in the subsoil, spreading it over the rest of the plot usually isn’t practical.
- Use excavated soil to raise the plot or parts of it (saves disposal costs)
Mr.Magou schrieb:Why choose the most expensive option of creating living space at all? It’s worrying to imagine that, depending on the soil report results, you might have to deal with hydrostatic pressure. Living in concrete walls must be a real joy.
- Plan the raised basement partly as living space (e.g. bedroom, full bathroom, utility room, additional rooms) to reduce the building footprint
Mr.Magou schrieb:No.
- Flat roof (probably the cheapest option)
Mr.Magou schrieb:That requires more work with concrete columns or beams.
- Open floor plan to reduce interior walls (living room, dining room + hallway and kitchen)
Mr.Magou schrieb:There should always be only one central shaft. It only becomes more expensive if the sanitary rooms are planned opposite each other.
- Central installation shaft (water, heating, ventilation, wastewater, electricity)
- Heating, bathrooms & kitchen(s) located directly next to the installation shaft
Mr.Magou schrieb:Into the baseboards? Why would you do that?
- Integrate electrical wiring into the baseboards except for kitchen and bathrooms (if allowed), no ceiling lighting needed
Mr.Magou schrieb:That’s the least of your worries here.
- Install underfloor heating in all inhabited rooms, reserve it for others
- Use standard sizes for windows and doors, possibly reserve lintels for larger openings
Mr.Magou schrieb:That’s the structural engineer’s job.
Additionally, the following wishes should be planned but implemented later:
- Design masonry to allow the addition of a second floor
Mr.Magou schrieb:Also structural engineering.
- Prepare basement garage by installing a lintel
Mr.Magou schrieb:Reserve space – are you sure you want to spend weeks cleaning dust and debris if a second staircase has to be installed afterwards?
- Reserve space for a staircase or at least the area for one to the second floor
Mr.Magou schrieb:Quite an expensive matter, plus additional costs for burglary protection.
- Reserve lintel for external basement stairs
Mr.Magou schrieb:Better get an architect and subcontract the trades separately—if there are any left at the end of the day.
DIY work could be done as follows:
- Kit house, e.g. made from sand-lime brick or aerated concrete with expert guidance
- Heating pipes, water supply and drainage (technical profession)
- Electrical installation (relatives)
- Land drainage / drainage system (technical profession)
- Complete interior finishing (partly technical profession)
Regards, Bauexperte
Hello everyone,
thank you for the numerous "comments." I will try to explain my perspective a bit more clearly.
I thought I had taken this into account sufficiently by choosing a rectangular shape, full basement, and a flat roof. Of course, I could not have known that a raised basement and flat roof would deviate from the "usual construction methods"...
The total costs are planned at 250,000 euros, which will be fully paid off in about 10-12 years. That doesn’t mean you have to spend the full 250,000 euros upfront. A partial build-out is planned initially for three people (living room, bedroom, child’s room, bathroom, kitchen, hallway). Over time, a second bathroom, second child’s room, hobby room, utility room, and garage should be added. If it ends up taking 15 years because more is built than originally planned, that’s not a problem.
No forced financing, as mentioned above.
Please clarify for me: if a second story is planned, the ceiling to that floor will be finished. How could you put a simpler (flat) roof on top that lasts 10 years? I honestly can’t imagine such a roof costing several tens of thousands of euros. What options would you suggest?
Yes, I have considered this as my first thought. Since the available properties usually deviate significantly from the desired specifications and renovations or modernization work become very expensive, I finally decided to build new. Besides, a modernized house is still not a new house, and the costs for purchase and modernization often far exceed those of a new build. In the end, you don’t get exactly what you had imagined.
I would like to respond to Bauexperte’s comments, but without a quote-in-quote function, the replies get taken out of context. I will still try to address them as best as possible.
By the way, my assumptions are based on a fictional house build; whether it is a raised or deep basement, ridge height, soil survey / clay soil, are initially left open and would of course need to be considered.
- Why is a rectangular house with a full basement, one story, and a flat roof considered the most expensive option? Please explain.
- Nobody mentioned concrete walls (there are other materials as well). I assume you meant living in concrete walls with regard to the basement. I don’t know what you do in the bedroom, but for me it’s perfectly fine to have it in the basement, especially if it is a raised basement with sufficient daylight. The same applies to the full bathroom, utility room, and garage in the basement.
- Flat roof not the cheapest option? Which one is, please clarify.
- Electrical wiring in baseboards—why not? What are the disadvantages? Please clarify.
- Providing a lintel over the external basement stairs—why would this become expensive? Please explain.
In your opinion, what is the cheapest and safest construction method?! So far, I have only heard objections but no suggestions I could follow up on!
thank you for the numerous "comments." I will try to explain my perspective a bit more clearly.
lastdrop schrieb:
I also think that there should be a minimum level of "standard" construction because that saves money.
I thought I had taken this into account sufficiently by choosing a rectangular shape, full basement, and a flat roof. Of course, I could not have known that a raised basement and flat roof would deviate from the "usual construction methods"...
Ben1000 schrieb:
Where is the money for the second floor going to come from in a few years? Better to consider a partial build-out.
The total costs are planned at 250,000 euros, which will be fully paid off in about 10-12 years. That doesn’t mean you have to spend the full 250,000 euros upfront. A partial build-out is planned initially for three people (living room, bedroom, child’s room, bathroom, kitchen, hallway). Over time, a second bathroom, second child’s room, hobby room, utility room, and garage should be added. If it ends up taking 15 years because more is built than originally planned, that’s not a problem.
BeHaElJa schrieb:
I’m also not a fan of forced financing—that just disrupts family harmony. Better to buy the land now, make payments on that, and build when you have a bit more equity or income.
No forced financing, as mentioned above.
BeHaElJa schrieb:
Otherwise, I don’t believe a flat roof is always the cheapest option (please correct me).
Please clarify for me: if a second story is planned, the ceiling to that floor will be finished. How could you put a simpler (flat) roof on top that lasts 10 years? I honestly can’t imagine such a roof costing several tens of thousands of euros. What options would you suggest?
BeHaElJa schrieb:
Have you considered buying an old used house and renovating it? (Probably not necessarily cheaper overall, but certainly easier to finance modularly—for example: electrical work this year, rooms 2 and 3 next year, and then a new bathroom, etc.).
Yes, I have considered this as my first thought. Since the available properties usually deviate significantly from the desired specifications and renovations or modernization work become very expensive, I finally decided to build new. Besides, a modernized house is still not a new house, and the costs for purchase and modernization often far exceed those of a new build. In the end, you don’t get exactly what you had imagined.
I would like to respond to Bauexperte’s comments, but without a quote-in-quote function, the replies get taken out of context. I will still try to address them as best as possible.
By the way, my assumptions are based on a fictional house build; whether it is a raised or deep basement, ridge height, soil survey / clay soil, are initially left open and would of course need to be considered.
- Why is a rectangular house with a full basement, one story, and a flat roof considered the most expensive option? Please explain.
- Nobody mentioned concrete walls (there are other materials as well). I assume you meant living in concrete walls with regard to the basement. I don’t know what you do in the bedroom, but for me it’s perfectly fine to have it in the basement, especially if it is a raised basement with sufficient daylight. The same applies to the full bathroom, utility room, and garage in the basement.
- Flat roof not the cheapest option? Which one is, please clarify.
- Electrical wiring in baseboards—why not? What are the disadvantages? Please clarify.
- Providing a lintel over the external basement stairs—why would this become expensive? Please explain.
In your opinion, what is the cheapest and safest construction method?! So far, I have only heard objections but no suggestions I could follow up on!
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