ᐅ Lighting in the Entryway and Kitchen: Are Recessed Ceiling Spotlights Necessary?

Created on: 2 Oct 2015 22:43
H
Häusle77
Hello,

we are currently planning the lighting for the hallway and kitchen.

The builder offered us recessed ceiling spotlights installed in the concrete ceiling, using GU10 sockets for bulbs up to 50W.

One spotlight would cost about €150 (approximately $160), so we would like to plan only as many as necessary.

The spotlights are already marked on the attached plan – however, I am concerned that it might be a bit too dark.

The kitchen island will be positioned further to the left and will align flush with the window and the kitchen unit.
There will be 6 x 2W LEDs installed under the wall cabinets, and there will also be lighting under the extractor hood.

In your opinion, would 5W LEDs in the GU10 sockets be sufficient?

Or should I skip the spotlights altogether and invest the €1500 (about $1600) into a nice track lighting system instead?

What do you think?

Küchen-Grundriss mit Herd, Spüle und Arbeitsfläche im Grundrissplan


Grundriss eines Hauses mit Diele, Treppenhaus, HWR und Türen, Maßangaben
Mycraft3 Oct 2015 13:38
Yes, that’s what I mean too...

Just have the concrete supplier install larger boxes... Usually, they don’t care whether a 68mm (2.7 inch) or a 100mm (3.9 inch) box is used.

KompaX®3 Concrete Installation Housing
KompaX® 3 housing system for recessed downlights, LED fixtures, and speakers in concrete ceilings and walls, with extensive accessories for almost any application. Height adjustable with intermediate frames and especially practical due to the different front covers.
  • Housing system for recessed downlights, LED fixtures, and speakers
  • For cast-in-place concrete and precast concrete
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  • For fixture installation depths up to 200 mm (7.9 inches)*
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  • Tolerance compensation when installing panel elements
H
Häusle77
3 Oct 2015 14:01
Unfortunately, they only offer this as a complete package – including the housing, wiring, and GU10 sockets with halogen bulbs!

I also don’t understand why the builder charges €150 per GU10 fixture when you can get them with concrete housings for less than €15 in stores!

Should I keep the plan as it is, or add two more fixtures each in the hallway and kitchen?

That would mean these few spots in the two rooms alone would cost me over €2000!

What would be the approximate cost to install a suspended ceiling in rooms of this size?
An advantage would be that I could switch to 12V because of the transformers!

However, I only have a room height of 250cm (98 inches), and in the open kitchen, this would create a spatial separation – which doesn’t necessarily have to look bad!
Mycraft3 Oct 2015 14:57
As a rule, the customer is king... and if they want something, you make them an offer... as I said, the concrete supplier doesn’t really care...

Openings for wastewater pipes, etc., are planned through the ceilings and these are also larger... so that works fine...

But well, since it’s your general contractor, you’ll have to sort that out...

In my 11sqm (118 sqft) bathroom, I have six 35W halogen spotlights, and I find that just sufficient for lighting. Your kitchen is about the same size... so I wouldn’t go below six in either case...

As for the cost of the soffit, your drywall contractor will know, so ask them or your general contractor again... it’s usually enough to lower the ceiling by about 5cm (2 inches)...
Y
ypg
3 Oct 2015 22:15
Häusle77 schrieb:
Especially in the open kitchen with an island, as well as in the L-shaped hallway, I worry that simple light sources won’t provide adequate illumination.

We have an open kitchen about 6 meters (20 feet) wide with two light sources, each fitted with two modern spotlights. That costs only a fraction of your plan. And honestly? We only switch them on when searching for something in the dark or similar situations (about four times a year). For cooking over the island, the light from the range hood serves as task lighting, and over the counter, there are under-cabinet task lights mounted beneath the wall cabinets. If we didn’t have wall cabinets, we would hang several stylish pendant lights there.

In an open kitchen, you don’t want floodlights or lighting that doesn’t accentuate the space; rather, you want focused lighting at the work areas and a nice pendant lamp hanging low over the dining table. Tip: ceiling lights only directly above the work surfaces—that’s sufficient.

Regarding the hallway: it’s possible to install more there, as hallways usually need plenty of light—but it’s still just a hallway. You’ll have to decide if you want to spend that much money there. Usually, one light source in the middle with a double spotlight is enough. I would rather invest the money saved in an LED wall light that can be used as emergency or accent lighting and adds coziness.
S
Sebastian79
4 Oct 2015 11:35
Mycraft schrieb:
So here... just to say that I’m using the round ones... they are only about 22mm (0.9 inches) thick

Many thanks also for the tip – just yesterday I quickly installed two HT pipes with the right diameter in my concrete ceiling above the entrance (I had foolishly let the factory install boxes there and forgot that there would still be an external thermal insulation system on top), so plastering can start on Monday.

I initially bought a surface-mounted light, but they’re just ugly... I just need to decide whether to choose warm white or neutral white for the entrance.

In the hallway, we had three recessed spotlights installed, also in the utility room and basement corridor – LED panels will be installed there as well.

Otherwise, in the kitchen, we will lower the ceiling and install light fixtures with frosted glass panels.

In the living and dining area, as well as in the hallway, we have only planned wall lights – plus a concealed outlet for a ceiling light (just in case it becomes necessary).
H
Häusle77
4 Oct 2015 11:50
What do you think I should do now regarding our floor plan?
Could I convert the spotlights later to a standard ceiling outlet if the lighting isn’t sufficient?
The GU10 spots are only rated up to a maximum of 50W, but can I still connect a full fixture to the wiring?

I’m almost considering skipping all the spotlights entirely and just using regular outlets.

In the kitchen, centrally to the left of the island, and in the hallway, one in the middle of the front area and one in the rear area of the corridor.
Maybe also two wall outlets...

What are your thoughts on this?