Hello everyone,
we are considering renovating our floor with glued vinyl.
Floating installation is not an option.
The floor should be fully bonded to match the level of the hallway covering, which results in a thickness of about 16–17 mm (0.6–0.7 inches).
It is a concrete screed with underfloor heating.
The drying time does not need to be overnight; the room is not a passageway and can easily be left unused for 1–2 weeks.
The price differences between products from hardware stores and those from vinyl online shops are quite significant. However, the differences are somewhat difficult to understand. Drying times are a factor, but as mentioned, not very important for us.
For example, the online shops offer products like 924 Europlan Hybrid, while hardware stores have products from Weber.
Does anyone have helpful recommendations or tips?
Thank you in advance!
we are considering renovating our floor with glued vinyl.
Floating installation is not an option.
The floor should be fully bonded to match the level of the hallway covering, which results in a thickness of about 16–17 mm (0.6–0.7 inches).
It is a concrete screed with underfloor heating.
The drying time does not need to be overnight; the room is not a passageway and can easily be left unused for 1–2 weeks.
The price differences between products from hardware stores and those from vinyl online shops are quite significant. However, the differences are somewhat difficult to understand. Drying times are a factor, but as mentioned, not very important for us.
For example, the online shops offer products like 924 Europlan Hybrid, while hardware stores have products from Weber.
Does anyone have helpful recommendations or tips?
Thank you in advance!
If there is a height difference between a room and an adjacent corridor, meaning between two connected building components, it is not always necessary to level the entire room to the corridor’s height!
Why should it be?
The key point is to design the transition between rooms of different heights so that no noticeable (height) difference occurs during use.
In practice, this "issue" can often be resolved by applying a ramp-shaped leveling compound at the transition.
Based on my experience as a flooring technology expert, the formula < height difference in mm × 8 / 100 > (result in m) serves as a good guideline.
For example:
10mm (0.4 inches) height difference × 8 = 80
80 ÷ 100 = 0.8 m (length of the ramp)
No, this formula does not come from standards or regulations but is derived purely from practical experience.
Using this approach, I have already been able to renovate industrial buildings with similar "problems" without significant costs.
Fully leveling the room is neither practical nor economical!
Since the lower room will almost certainly have a cement-based subfloor, the leveling material should not be gypsum-based but instead a cementitious compound (of course applied with a primer as an adhesion promoter).
-------------------------
Good luck: KlaRa
Why should it be?
The key point is to design the transition between rooms of different heights so that no noticeable (height) difference occurs during use.
In practice, this "issue" can often be resolved by applying a ramp-shaped leveling compound at the transition.
Based on my experience as a flooring technology expert, the formula < height difference in mm × 8 / 100 > (result in m) serves as a good guideline.
For example:
10mm (0.4 inches) height difference × 8 = 80
80 ÷ 100 = 0.8 m (length of the ramp)
No, this formula does not come from standards or regulations but is derived purely from practical experience.
Using this approach, I have already been able to renovate industrial buildings with similar "problems" without significant costs.
Fully leveling the room is neither practical nor economical!
Since the lower room will almost certainly have a cement-based subfloor, the leveling material should not be gypsum-based but instead a cementitious compound (of course applied with a primer as an adhesion promoter).
-------------------------
Good luck: KlaRa
Thank you for the suggestion regarding the ramp.
Unfortunately, this is not feasible in our case.
It is an open-plan living area adjacent to a tiled kitchen.
The kitchen island is positioned half on the tiled section and half on the other floor covering. Currently, this is laminate flooring with a 10mm (0.4 inch) underlay.
The ramp could be made slightly wider, but then it would extend into the area with the dining table and chairs, which unfortunately is not workable.
Therefore, we have no choice but to raise the entire floor surface across the whole area...
Unfortunately, this is not feasible in our case.
It is an open-plan living area adjacent to a tiled kitchen.
The kitchen island is positioned half on the tiled section and half on the other floor covering. Currently, this is laminate flooring with a 10mm (0.4 inch) underlay.
The ramp could be made slightly wider, but then it would extend into the area with the dining table and chairs, which unfortunately is not workable.
Therefore, we have no choice but to raise the entire floor surface across the whole area...
N
nordanney23 Mar 2026 10:08What type of floor do you currently have? Cement screed or calcium sulfate screed? Your choice should depend on that. Avoid using leveling compound at first – it's too expensive. For example, Knauf N440 is suitable for calcium sulfate substrates. Alternatively, the basic cement-based floor leveling compound from Weber works well for traditional cement screed. Both are options, but better suited for the build-up height and much more affordable.
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