So, I need to start addressing this topic. The tongue-and-groove boards have been stored in the attic since the shell was completed. I am currently considering how to approach this properly.
The initial plan was to install the tongue-and-groove boards from gable to gable, laid perpendicular to the (purlin?) beams of the roof structure (which you essentially walk on, going from eaves to eaves). However, this would mean the tongue-and-groove boards would be directly on top of the insulation placed between the beams, which raises concerns regarding air circulation.
A while ago, I received advice to raise the boards. Now, to avoid adding multiple (unnecessary) layers and increasing the height too much, I am thinking of installing battens lengthwise from gable to gable instead of laying the tongue-and-groove boards lengthwise. What spacing should I use between the battens? Then, the tongue-and-groove boards would be rotated and laid on the battens, this time running from eaves to eaves.
Since the boards will need to be cut on site, is it a problem if the cuttings—mainly fine dust from cutting—fall onto the insulation? How can this be prevented?
Thanks for your feedback!
The initial plan was to install the tongue-and-groove boards from gable to gable, laid perpendicular to the (purlin?) beams of the roof structure (which you essentially walk on, going from eaves to eaves). However, this would mean the tongue-and-groove boards would be directly on top of the insulation placed between the beams, which raises concerns regarding air circulation.
A while ago, I received advice to raise the boards. Now, to avoid adding multiple (unnecessary) layers and increasing the height too much, I am thinking of installing battens lengthwise from gable to gable instead of laying the tongue-and-groove boards lengthwise. What spacing should I use between the battens? Then, the tongue-and-groove boards would be rotated and laid on the battens, this time running from eaves to eaves.
Since the boards will need to be cut on site, is it a problem if the cuttings—mainly fine dust from cutting—fall onto the insulation? How can this be prevented?
Thanks for your feedback!
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Bau-beendet18 Oct 2023 22:04Honestly, 4 minutes for one adjustment?!
Additional note: If divided into 2.5m (8.2 feet) sections, something would always be hanging between the beams, and bringing it up to the attic would involve some juggling, whereas the shorter lengths work better there.
Additional note: If divided into 2.5m (8.2 feet) sections, something would always be hanging between the beams, and bringing it up to the attic would involve some juggling, whereas the shorter lengths work better there.
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WilderSueden18 Oct 2023 22:06If the choice is between 2.5m (8 feet) and 2m (6.5 feet), this is how I would do it. If you are going up to 5m (16.5 feet) or so, I would rather prefer something like this and cut it to size accordingly.
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Bau-beendet18 Oct 2023 22:09@WilderSueden
So the length is how I would like it. I definitely can’t (or no longer want to) lift 5 meters (16 feet). I think the rough-sawn board is also something around 4-5 meters (13-16 feet), which was easy to lift during the shell construction.
If I understood correctly, you would have done everything in one piece and then just cut the 5 meters (16 feet) to fit so that nothing is left unsupported in the air?
So the length is how I would like it. I definitely can’t (or no longer want to) lift 5 meters (16 feet). I think the rough-sawn board is also something around 4-5 meters (13-16 feet), which was easy to lift during the shell construction.
If I understood correctly, you would have done everything in one piece and then just cut the 5 meters (16 feet) to fit so that nothing is left unsupported in the air?
W
WilderSueden18 Oct 2023 22:19Butt joining means screwing twice, and when you screw close to the edge, there is always a risk of splitting the batten. Unless you pre-drill, which requires even more work. And when you later screw the boards, there is a higher risk of hitting the screws from the battens or screwing into the joint of the butt joint. That’s why ideally, you want to have as few joints as possible.
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Bau-beendet18 Oct 2023 22:33@WilderSueden
Yes, all right. But I wouldn’t even be able to transport the 5 meters (16 feet) home myself. Having it delivered would probably cost more than the material. Since the boards are laid and screwed together right away, you can already see how it looks and adjust accordingly. Or do you lay everything out first and then screw it together afterwards, which of course would mean everything is covered up?
Yes, all right. But I wouldn’t even be able to transport the 5 meters (16 feet) home myself. Having it delivered would probably cost more than the material. Since the boards are laid and screwed together right away, you can already see how it looks and adjust accordingly. Or do you lay everything out first and then screw it together afterwards, which of course would mean everything is covered up?
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xMisterDx19 Oct 2023 13:57Honestly, you only do this once in your life and it should be done properly. So, pre-drill even if it takes 2 minutes. I don’t understand all these constant comments about saving time anyway...
You’re not a carpenter who makes a living from this and therefore has to focus on efficiency. A carpenter also has the means to transport 5m (16.5 ft) battens/rough boards, the right tools, and so on.
You’re not a carpenter who makes a living from this and therefore has to focus on efficiency. A carpenter also has the means to transport 5m (16.5 ft) battens/rough boards, the right tools, and so on.
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