So, I need to start addressing this topic. The tongue-and-groove boards have been stored in the attic since the shell was completed. I am currently considering how to approach this properly.
The initial plan was to install the tongue-and-groove boards from gable to gable, laid perpendicular to the (purlin?) beams of the roof structure (which you essentially walk on, going from eaves to eaves). However, this would mean the tongue-and-groove boards would be directly on top of the insulation placed between the beams, which raises concerns regarding air circulation.
A while ago, I received advice to raise the boards. Now, to avoid adding multiple (unnecessary) layers and increasing the height too much, I am thinking of installing battens lengthwise from gable to gable instead of laying the tongue-and-groove boards lengthwise. What spacing should I use between the battens? Then, the tongue-and-groove boards would be rotated and laid on the battens, this time running from eaves to eaves.
Since the boards will need to be cut on site, is it a problem if the cuttings—mainly fine dust from cutting—fall onto the insulation? How can this be prevented?
Thanks for your feedback!
The initial plan was to install the tongue-and-groove boards from gable to gable, laid perpendicular to the (purlin?) beams of the roof structure (which you essentially walk on, going from eaves to eaves). However, this would mean the tongue-and-groove boards would be directly on top of the insulation placed between the beams, which raises concerns regarding air circulation.
A while ago, I received advice to raise the boards. Now, to avoid adding multiple (unnecessary) layers and increasing the height too much, I am thinking of installing battens lengthwise from gable to gable instead of laying the tongue-and-groove boards lengthwise. What spacing should I use between the battens? Then, the tongue-and-groove boards would be rotated and laid on the battens, this time running from eaves to eaves.
Since the boards will need to be cut on site, is it a problem if the cuttings—mainly fine dust from cutting—fall onto the insulation? How can this be prevented?
Thanks for your feedback!
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Bau-beendet18 Oct 2023 12:03I believe that an extra 10-20€ at most, if any, shouldn’t be a dealbreaker if I prefer to install it more tightly. I just checked with the building materials supplier: 30x50 costs 0.61€ net per linear meter, and 40x60 is 0.85€ net per linear meter.
Tolentino schrieb:
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xMisterDx18 Oct 2023 12:31With a distance of 40cm (16 inches), you could also use 19mm (3/4 inch) rough-sawn boards. The bigger impact lies in the overall surface area.
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motorradsilke18 Oct 2023 20:14xMisterDx schrieb:
Just lay down two battens, place three tongue-and-groove boards on top, and stand on them. This way, you can test at what spacing you no longer feel like you’re standing a whole floor lower. If you only test this on two battens, it’s not very meaningful because the tongue-and-groove boards will later be attached to several battens that carry the load.
We are using 22mm (7/8 inch) tongue-and-groove boards at the original spacing of about 90cm (35 inches), and there is no noticeable deflection when walking on them.
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xMisterDx18 Oct 2023 20:38motorradsilke schrieb:
If you only test this on 2 battens, it’s not really meaningful, because the tongue-and-groove boards will later be fixed to several battens that absorb the forces.
We have 22mm (7/8 inch) tongue-and-groove boards spaced at around 90cm (35 inches) according to the original layout, and nothing bends when you walk on it. Good point. So just put two cases of beer on each end.
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Bau-beendet18 Oct 2023 21:58Just a quick note on optimal installation and material requirements.
Here’s my thought process. I’m using 5-meter (16.4 feet) battens sized 30x50 mm (1.2x2 inches), with the 50 mm (2 inches) side laid flat and the 30 mm (1.2 inches) side vertical. I plan to have the 5-meter lengths cut into 2x2 meter (6.6 feet) pieces and 1x1 meter (3.3 feet) pieces.
One roof joist is about 7 cm (2.8 inches) thick, then there’s an internal spacing of roughly 90 cm (35.4 inches) to the next joist, followed by another 7 cm (2.8 inches) joist. This means a 1-meter (3.3 feet) piece fits perfectly from one joist to the next (about 104 cm / 41 inches), allowing enough room to align it on both joists so that no end is unsupported. With the 2-meter (6.6 feet) pieces, I can span across an additional joist, so 201 cm (79 inches): 7 cm + 90 cm + 7 cm + 90 cm + 7 cm. Again, no unsupported ends in that case. For the following batten, I won’t have full bearing on the joist if I butt them end to end, but I can stagger them by placing the new batten next to the previous one.
Am I missing something here? Or does this plan make sense?
Thanks!
Here’s my thought process. I’m using 5-meter (16.4 feet) battens sized 30x50 mm (1.2x2 inches), with the 50 mm (2 inches) side laid flat and the 30 mm (1.2 inches) side vertical. I plan to have the 5-meter lengths cut into 2x2 meter (6.6 feet) pieces and 1x1 meter (3.3 feet) pieces.
One roof joist is about 7 cm (2.8 inches) thick, then there’s an internal spacing of roughly 90 cm (35.4 inches) to the next joist, followed by another 7 cm (2.8 inches) joist. This means a 1-meter (3.3 feet) piece fits perfectly from one joist to the next (about 104 cm / 41 inches), allowing enough room to align it on both joists so that no end is unsupported. With the 2-meter (6.6 feet) pieces, I can span across an additional joist, so 201 cm (79 inches): 7 cm + 90 cm + 7 cm + 90 cm + 7 cm. Again, no unsupported ends in that case. For the following batten, I won’t have full bearing on the joist if I butt them end to end, but I can stagger them by placing the new batten next to the previous one.
Am I missing something here? Or does this plan make sense?
Thanks!
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