So, I need to start addressing this topic. The tongue-and-groove boards have been stored in the attic since the shell was completed. I am currently considering how to approach this properly.
The initial plan was to install the tongue-and-groove boards from gable to gable, laid perpendicular to the (purlin?) beams of the roof structure (which you essentially walk on, going from eaves to eaves). However, this would mean the tongue-and-groove boards would be directly on top of the insulation placed between the beams, which raises concerns regarding air circulation.
A while ago, I received advice to raise the boards. Now, to avoid adding multiple (unnecessary) layers and increasing the height too much, I am thinking of installing battens lengthwise from gable to gable instead of laying the tongue-and-groove boards lengthwise. What spacing should I use between the battens? Then, the tongue-and-groove boards would be rotated and laid on the battens, this time running from eaves to eaves.
Since the boards will need to be cut on site, is it a problem if the cuttings—mainly fine dust from cutting—fall onto the insulation? How can this be prevented?
Thanks for your feedback!
The initial plan was to install the tongue-and-groove boards from gable to gable, laid perpendicular to the (purlin?) beams of the roof structure (which you essentially walk on, going from eaves to eaves). However, this would mean the tongue-and-groove boards would be directly on top of the insulation placed between the beams, which raises concerns regarding air circulation.
A while ago, I received advice to raise the boards. Now, to avoid adding multiple (unnecessary) layers and increasing the height too much, I am thinking of installing battens lengthwise from gable to gable instead of laying the tongue-and-groove boards lengthwise. What spacing should I use between the battens? Then, the tongue-and-groove boards would be rotated and laid on the battens, this time running from eaves to eaves.
Since the boards will need to be cut on site, is it a problem if the cuttings—mainly fine dust from cutting—fall onto the insulation? How can this be prevented?
Thanks for your feedback!
Of course, that is possible too—it’s the "American" method. I personally don’t prefer it that way, but it’s a matter of taste. People usually don’t want to remove it afterward, since doing so without damage is difficult when using nails... Personally, I’m faster with a cordless drill and deck screws than with a hammer and nails, but that’s probably just a matter of practice.
Or if you have a nail gun, the question doesn’t even come up. However, I don’t know anyone in Germany who owns one except for carpenters...
Or if you have a nail gun, the question doesn’t even come up. However, I don’t know anyone in Germany who owns one except for carpenters...
W
WilderSueden18 Oct 2023 07:57xMisterDx schrieb:
The battens have the advantage of being unbeatable in price. 40x60 millimeters (about 1.5x2.4 inches) even at premium-price stores like Obi cost 1.69 EUR/m. They don’t have to be planed. Battens are also available in 40x60 millimeters (about 1.5x2.4 inches), and with your specifications you can go to the nearest sawmill.
Although I don’t find the 1.69 EUR/m price too excessive, since 40x60 millimeters (about 1.5x2.4 inches) really means a lot more material than 30x50 millimeters (about 1.2x2.0 inches).
When sizing them, the question is also what will be stored. Only lightweight items or the remaining roof tiles from the house construction?
X
xMisterDx18 Oct 2023 08:56WilderSueden schrieb:
(...)
When sizing, the question is also what will be stored. Only light items or the remaining roof tiles from the house construction?As usual. It starts with light boxes, and after five years, half the household ends up up there, including three outgrown children’s bicycles, the entire summer or winter clothing collection, books you plan to read when you retire, and so on.
B
Bau-beendet18 Oct 2023 10:00Well, Christmas decorations, less so the leftover bricks mentioned here, or something like that.
I have rough-sawn boards with a thickness of 23.5mm (almost 1 inch). But thanks to the tongue and groove joint, it should have a certain stability, right? Although I would probably choose a narrower spacing between the battens. Maybe around 40cm (16 inches) so that there isn’t too much sagging when walked on.
@xMisterDx the spacing of the joists in my case is also about 90cm (35 inches).
I have rough-sawn boards with a thickness of 23.5mm (almost 1 inch). But thanks to the tongue and groove joint, it should have a certain stability, right? Although I would probably choose a narrower spacing between the battens. Maybe around 40cm (16 inches) so that there isn’t too much sagging when walked on.
@xMisterDx the spacing of the joists in my case is also about 90cm (35 inches).
X
xMisterDx18 Oct 2023 10:17Simply lay down two battens, place three rough-sawn boards across them, and stand on it. This way, you can test at what spacing you no longer have the feeling of standing a whole floor below.
I don’t think you need 40, 60 will be enough. I only laid the 23mm (0.9 inch) floorboards over the doubled joists (also spaced 90cm (35 inches) apart) and I store a lot of heavy boxes next to the tiles. So far, I’ve only noticed the typical cracks at the edges of the drywall ceiling, which usually appear after about a year. But if you have the time and money, it certainly doesn’t hurt to do more.
Similar topics