Hello,
Since our old plank floor can no longer be renovated, we need to install a new one. The gaps that have opened between the planks now reach up to 1cm (0.4 inches) in size. In addition, the plank floor is also very uneven.
Now we simply want to lay a new wooden floorboard, fixed with staples, over the old floor.
Should we level out the roughest unevenness of the old boards with a belt sander? Or is there another solution?
What do you think about spreading a very thin layer of leveling compound on a laid-out membrane to even out the unevenness?
Thanks for your input!
Since our old plank floor can no longer be renovated, we need to install a new one. The gaps that have opened between the planks now reach up to 1cm (0.4 inches) in size. In addition, the plank floor is also very uneven.
Now we simply want to lay a new wooden floorboard, fixed with staples, over the old floor.
Should we level out the roughest unevenness of the old boards with a belt sander? Or is there another solution?
What do you think about spreading a very thin layer of leveling compound on a laid-out membrane to even out the unevenness?
Thanks for your input!
S
sebby77-12 Jan 2008 00:56Hello everyone,
If the old plank floor’s unevenness corresponds to the DIN 18202, line 4 standard, it can remain in place, though this is generally not recommended. I would simply remove the old plank floor and then screw the new planks onto the existing joists, which must first be leveled.
Another option is to remove the entire plank floor, fill the gaps with acrylic sealant, prime everything with a suitable primer, and smooth it out with a fiber-reinforced self-leveling compound. Then you can screw down the fasteners—preferably into the joists below—and lay the new floor. A vapor barrier should be used here to reduce rising moisture.
One more tip: When the wood is delivered, be sure to check the wood moisture content! (on average about 9%). This is especially important for solid wood planks, particularly beech and maple. Otherwise, the planks may warp.
Best regards
If the old plank floor’s unevenness corresponds to the DIN 18202, line 4 standard, it can remain in place, though this is generally not recommended. I would simply remove the old plank floor and then screw the new planks onto the existing joists, which must first be leveled.
Another option is to remove the entire plank floor, fill the gaps with acrylic sealant, prime everything with a suitable primer, and smooth it out with a fiber-reinforced self-leveling compound. Then you can screw down the fasteners—preferably into the joists below—and lay the new floor. A vapor barrier should be used here to reduce rising moisture.
One more tip: When the wood is delivered, be sure to check the wood moisture content! (on average about 9%). This is especially important for solid wood planks, particularly beech and maple. Otherwise, the planks may warp.
Best regards
Thanks a lot.
The old floor really has significant unevenness. The old floorboards cannot be removed either, as that would otherwise cause the construction height to no longer match the neighboring rooms. No thresholds should be created!
The new floorboards will be installed as a floating floor using these clips, see the link in my first post.
According to my information, a vapor barrier is not necessary since there is a living space below. Rising damp is not expected.
The old floor really has significant unevenness. The old floorboards cannot be removed either, as that would otherwise cause the construction height to no longer match the neighboring rooms. No thresholds should be created!
The new floorboards will be installed as a floating floor using these clips, see the link in my first post.
According to my information, a vapor barrier is not necessary since there is a living space below. Rising damp is not expected.
M
maneluk-12 Jan 2008 01:11So, every single one of your well-intentioned suggestions to the questioners actually shows a lack of knowledge and zero understanding of any building materials or installation techniques for these types of clipped floorboards.
- The only correct point is probably the reference to the DIN 18202 standard, which was likely copied from the linked website. 🙂
To the questioner:
These floorboards cannot be laid in the same direction as the boards underneath. If those already have gaps of several centimeters (inches) between them, they probably are already bending when walked on, right?
One possible solution would be:
If the joist spacing allows it, the new floorboards can be laid directly on top. However, the height difference should be evened out beforehand by screwing on wide battens.
Regards
- The only correct point is probably the reference to the DIN 18202 standard, which was likely copied from the linked website. 🙂
To the questioner:
These floorboards cannot be laid in the same direction as the boards underneath. If those already have gaps of several centimeters (inches) between them, they probably are already bending when walked on, right?
One possible solution would be:
If the joist spacing allows it, the new floorboards can be laid directly on top. However, the height difference should be evened out beforehand by screwing on wide battens.
Regards
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