ᐅ Installing vinyl flooring and sealing it to the wall with silicone instead of using baseboards?
Created on: 20 Sep 2022 13:56
J
JackieHello,
Five years ago, I built a house with a basement, and two of the basement rooms still don’t have finished floors. At the moment, there is only the screed that was installed back then, which I don’t find very visually appealing. Therefore, I would like to install vinyl plank flooring (click vinyl) in these rooms, but not glued down—floating installation instead.
Now my question regarding the edge finishing: instead of the usual baseboards along the walls, can I simply use sanitary silicone as the edge seal, or is there a reason not to? I am also concerned that if water ever gets on the floor, it won’t immediately seep into the screed and cause water damage.
Is there any drawback to this solution, or do you have better ideas? Thank you very much!
Five years ago, I built a house with a basement, and two of the basement rooms still don’t have finished floors. At the moment, there is only the screed that was installed back then, which I don’t find very visually appealing. Therefore, I would like to install vinyl plank flooring (click vinyl) in these rooms, but not glued down—floating installation instead.
Now my question regarding the edge finishing: instead of the usual baseboards along the walls, can I simply use sanitary silicone as the edge seal, or is there a reason not to? I am also concerned that if water ever gets on the floor, it won’t immediately seep into the screed and cause water damage.
Is there any drawback to this solution, or do you have better ideas? Thank you very much!
Floating = I assume you mean floating floor installation – completely without water.
Even if the plank is waterproof, the click system itself is not. You still need to leave about 10mm (0.4 inches) gap to the wall when installing a floating floor, even if you consciously try to reduce this (somehow you still have to fit the last plank in). A silicone joint looks poor and ineffective next to this, and it will crack pretty quickly. If the wall, as expected, is not perfectly straight or squared, it will look even worse.
For click vinyl flooring, the classic installation is as follows: (use leveling compound if needed,) vapor barrier (which only helps against rising moisture), impact sound insulation, planks, and then baseboards along the edges against the wall.
If water leakage is likely, do it like the professionals do in bathrooms: a full waterproofing layer with liquid membrane, then tiles on top, and ideally a floor drain as well ;-) Or coat it with epoxy floor paint. It won’t look very homely, but it will be more water-resistant...
Even if the plank is waterproof, the click system itself is not. You still need to leave about 10mm (0.4 inches) gap to the wall when installing a floating floor, even if you consciously try to reduce this (somehow you still have to fit the last plank in). A silicone joint looks poor and ineffective next to this, and it will crack pretty quickly. If the wall, as expected, is not perfectly straight or squared, it will look even worse.
For click vinyl flooring, the classic installation is as follows: (use leveling compound if needed,) vapor barrier (which only helps against rising moisture), impact sound insulation, planks, and then baseboards along the edges against the wall.
If water leakage is likely, do it like the professionals do in bathrooms: a full waterproofing layer with liquid membrane, then tiles on top, and ideally a floor drain as well ;-) Or coat it with epoxy floor paint. It won’t look very homely, but it will be more water-resistant...
Hello questioner,
First of all, a counter-question: were the two basement rooms originally planned and constructed as “secondary rooms” or as living spaces?
If the rooms were intended, for example, as laundry or utility rooms, then there is neither a waterproofing layer below the slab nor insulation beneath the screed.
This would result in cold floors during winter and significant humidity from rising moisture (through the slab and wall surfaces), which can have unpleasant consequences—especially in rooms that are heated only afterwards.
Regarding your question: no, flexible sealants are fundamentally not suitable for movement joints. Using them would restrict the natural expansion and contraction of the floor covering, which at best would cause a large, permanent bulge in the floor surface due to applied pressure.
Spilled liquids penetrating the floor represent an improper usage situation. Of course, accidents can happen, but no floor covering, regardless of type, is designed to withstand such unusual conditions without damage.
Also, a screed does not absorb fluids just because it comes into contact with them once; this assumption is exaggerated.
The purpose of leveling compound is to smooth the screed surface. The leveling effect of self-leveling compounds is negligible in this respect.
This means that if you cover a screed surface with click vinyl flooring without applying a leveling compound, you will likely hear unpleasant creaking noises when walking later—these are almost unavoidable on directly covered screed surfaces (without smoothing compound).
In such a case, the surface covering must be removed, and the leveling compound applied afterward.
In summary:
Installing a floor covering directly on a screed surface without smoothing compound (except for tiles) is not a good idea.
Sealing or filling the perimeter joint with silicone is also not recommended!
Proper procedure:
Sand and vacuum the screed surface, prime it (using a dispersion primer), and apply a 2–3mm (0.08–0.12 inch) thick layer of leveling compound over the entire area.
Install the floor covering, leave a 6–8mm (0.24–0.31 inch) perimeter joint, and cover the floor-to-wall transitions with a molding if the perimeter joint is functioning properly.
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Best regards and good luck, KlaRa
First of all, a counter-question: were the two basement rooms originally planned and constructed as “secondary rooms” or as living spaces?
If the rooms were intended, for example, as laundry or utility rooms, then there is neither a waterproofing layer below the slab nor insulation beneath the screed.
This would result in cold floors during winter and significant humidity from rising moisture (through the slab and wall surfaces), which can have unpleasant consequences—especially in rooms that are heated only afterwards.
Regarding your question: no, flexible sealants are fundamentally not suitable for movement joints. Using them would restrict the natural expansion and contraction of the floor covering, which at best would cause a large, permanent bulge in the floor surface due to applied pressure.
Spilled liquids penetrating the floor represent an improper usage situation. Of course, accidents can happen, but no floor covering, regardless of type, is designed to withstand such unusual conditions without damage.
Also, a screed does not absorb fluids just because it comes into contact with them once; this assumption is exaggerated.
The purpose of leveling compound is to smooth the screed surface. The leveling effect of self-leveling compounds is negligible in this respect.
This means that if you cover a screed surface with click vinyl flooring without applying a leveling compound, you will likely hear unpleasant creaking noises when walking later—these are almost unavoidable on directly covered screed surfaces (without smoothing compound).
In such a case, the surface covering must be removed, and the leveling compound applied afterward.
In summary:
Installing a floor covering directly on a screed surface without smoothing compound (except for tiles) is not a good idea.
Sealing or filling the perimeter joint with silicone is also not recommended!
Proper procedure:
Sand and vacuum the screed surface, prime it (using a dispersion primer), and apply a 2–3mm (0.08–0.12 inch) thick layer of leveling compound over the entire area.
Install the floor covering, leave a 6–8mm (0.24–0.31 inch) perimeter joint, and cover the floor-to-wall transitions with a molding if the perimeter joint is functioning properly.
------------
Best regards and good luck, KlaRa
Hello,
thank you for your replies. The basement rooms will not be heated and are really only secondary spaces. The click vinyl flooring would not be installed directly, but with an appropriate underlay for impact sound insulation underneath. Is that sufficient, or do I need something more?
I think I would then install baseboards, so this solution should be practical, or do I really need an additional leveling compound?
thank you for your replies. The basement rooms will not be heated and are really only secondary spaces. The click vinyl flooring would not be installed directly, but with an appropriate underlay for impact sound insulation underneath. Is that sufficient, or do I need something more?
I think I would then install baseboards, so this solution should be practical, or do I really need an additional leveling compound?
Jackie schrieb:
Do I really need an additional leveling compound? I believe I have already made my position clear on this.
If you are willing to accept the consequences, you can choose any installation method you prefer for your flooring.
Why impact sound insulation should be installed under a modular floor covering in a basement room is beyond my (professional) knowledge. Any room that cannot be heated is NOT considered living space and is not defined as such.
However, without exception, all wood-based and wood composite floor coverings are designed and certified for living areas.
If shortly edge swelling or lifting occurs at the floorboard joints in an unheated room with a slab-on-grade foundation, it is not worth contacting the retailer where the floor was purchased for a claim!
Because the justified argument will be that the flooring was not installed according to the material-specific installation guidelines for its intended use.
Once again:
Anyone who is not familiar with proper installation standards and installs flooring incorrectly as a DIY project must bear the consequences.
Regards, KlaRa
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