Good evening,
Our landscaper paved our driveway up to the garage with a gravel joint about 3 - 4 cm (1.2 - 1.6 inches) wide, as shown in the picture. This is not really ideal because some gravel keeps coming out of the joint. Also, the loose gravel probably won’t create enough lateral pressure in the long term, which may cause the stones to shift.
How can this be improved? The joint should remain permeable because the pavement is approximately level with the garage floor. Our idea is to remove about 2 - 3 cm (0.8 - 1.2 inches) of gravel from the joint and fill it with drainable concrete. What do you think?
Our landscaper paved our driveway up to the garage with a gravel joint about 3 - 4 cm (1.2 - 1.6 inches) wide, as shown in the picture. This is not really ideal because some gravel keeps coming out of the joint. Also, the loose gravel probably won’t create enough lateral pressure in the long term, which may cause the stones to shift.
How can this be improved? The joint should remain permeable because the pavement is approximately level with the garage floor. Our idea is to remove about 2 - 3 cm (0.8 - 1.2 inches) of gravel from the joint and fill it with drainable concrete. What do you think?
M
MachsSelbst25 Feb 2026 20:56Honestly... setting the time required aside, just the materials you need to get for this would cost more than if you simply bought paving stones and properly cut them to size to fit next to the garage.
If you want to remove the paving, pour concrete, and so on, you’ll have to rebuild the gravel bed afterward anyway...
Borrow a stone splitter or an angle grinder, remove the paving, and redo it in a few hours...
That way nothing crumbles, there’s no need for reinforcement, and no mess with concrete, resin, or mortar on the nice new paving...
If your hardwood floor is cut 2cm (about 1 inch) too short, you don’t fill the gap with liquid cork—you take up that row and cut it again properly... with new boards, of course...
If you want to remove the paving, pour concrete, and so on, you’ll have to rebuild the gravel bed afterward anyway...
Borrow a stone splitter or an angle grinder, remove the paving, and redo it in a few hours...
That way nothing crumbles, there’s no need for reinforcement, and no mess with concrete, resin, or mortar on the nice new paving...
If your hardwood floor is cut 2cm (about 1 inch) too short, you don’t fill the gap with liquid cork—you take up that row and cut it again properly... with new boards, of course...
S
Sockeldichtung27 Feb 2026 11:33I looked into it, and a "stone crusher" can actually be rented quite cheaply nearby, plus I still have some paving stones. That’s probably the better solution after all.
But aside from that: How can I best protect the cable in the gap (see sketch) long-term from being damaged by gravel that might get pushed into the gap over time? There is currently a thick filter fleece in front of it. The force from the paving stones when driven over acts diagonally, and I’m a bit worried that gravel will be pushed in underneath and pinch the cable over time. Should I remove the gravel and place a fiberglass angle profile in front?
Unfortunately, things didn’t go very smoothly—finding a good landscaper seems to be not so easy...
But aside from that: How can I best protect the cable in the gap (see sketch) long-term from being damaged by gravel that might get pushed into the gap over time? There is currently a thick filter fleece in front of it. The force from the paving stones when driven over acts diagonally, and I’m a bit worried that gravel will be pushed in underneath and pinch the cable over time. Should I remove the gravel and place a fiberglass angle profile in front?
Unfortunately, things didn’t go very smoothly—finding a good landscaper seems to be not so easy...
M
MachsSelbst27 Feb 2026 11:49I would use aluminum angle profiles and anchor them firmly to the strip foundation.
If you even have paving stones already and don’t need to buy any 😀
Oh man. Renting tools at the home improvement store is often much cheaper than you think. If you prepare well (create a gravel bed, measure and mark the stones), the 4-hour rental at Obi is definitely enough for a saw like that.
Mark 2 or 3 extra stones to practice, then it will fit perfectly.
If you even have paving stones already and don’t need to buy any 😀
Oh man. Renting tools at the home improvement store is often much cheaper than you think. If you prepare well (create a gravel bed, measure and mark the stones), the 4-hour rental at Obi is definitely enough for a saw like that.
Mark 2 or 3 extra stones to practice, then it will fit perfectly.
S
Sockeldichtung27 Feb 2026 16:00Yes, breaking stones seems feasible; I have watched two videos on that.
Is aluminum permanently resistant in that environment? We don’t spread salt, but in winter, driving the car into the driveway will probably deposit some automatically. Is V4A stainless steel better, or perhaps fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP) instead?
Probably a silly question, but could an ungrounded metal profile nearby possibly interfere with the cable?
Thank you very much for your patience! 🙂
Is aluminum permanently resistant in that environment? We don’t spread salt, but in winter, driving the car into the driveway will probably deposit some automatically. Is V4A stainless steel better, or perhaps fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP) instead?
Probably a silly question, but could an ungrounded metal profile nearby possibly interfere with the cable?
Thank you very much for your patience! 🙂
S
Sockeldichtung5 Mar 2026 19:58Does anyone have an opinion on how or with which material to best protect the joint permanently against gravel?
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