Hello,
we are currently struggling with our heating system. It is warm everywhere in the house—both on the ground floor and in the heated basement room—around 21-22°C (70-72°F). However, the temperature in all rooms in the attic is noticeably lower, usually about 2°C (3.6°F) difference. This is problematic because a) it is too cold and b) it also affects the bathroom.
We have already tried various measures. We adjusted the heating curve, the manufacturer’s service performed a firmware update, and the hydraulic balancing was done again... but the problem remains the same. The attic stays consistently about 2°C (3.6°F) cooler than the other floors. The heating technician said this is normal because of the many windows and that it always tends to be cooler in the attic. He advised us to simply increase the supply water temperature. But that can’t be the solution, right? Although this raises the temperature in the attic, we then have to lower the temperature on the ground floor because otherwise it becomes too hot. The 2°C (3.6°F) difference always stays the same. We have solid ceilings and walls, underfloor heating everywhere, and the room thermostats turned up fully.
Is this really normal, or is the heating technician just trying to sell us that because he has no other ideas? What is your experience? Do you also have such temperature differences?
we are currently struggling with our heating system. It is warm everywhere in the house—both on the ground floor and in the heated basement room—around 21-22°C (70-72°F). However, the temperature in all rooms in the attic is noticeably lower, usually about 2°C (3.6°F) difference. This is problematic because a) it is too cold and b) it also affects the bathroom.
We have already tried various measures. We adjusted the heating curve, the manufacturer’s service performed a firmware update, and the hydraulic balancing was done again... but the problem remains the same. The attic stays consistently about 2°C (3.6°F) cooler than the other floors. The heating technician said this is normal because of the many windows and that it always tends to be cooler in the attic. He advised us to simply increase the supply water temperature. But that can’t be the solution, right? Although this raises the temperature in the attic, we then have to lower the temperature on the ground floor because otherwise it becomes too hot. The 2°C (3.6°F) difference always stays the same. We have solid ceilings and walls, underfloor heating everywhere, and the room thermostats turned up fully.
Is this really normal, or is the heating technician just trying to sell us that because he has no other ideas? What is your experience? Do you also have such temperature differences?
andimann schrieb:
You won’t get the perfect balance where you can have the whole house at the right temperature with all the radiators fully on.But this is possible with today’s heating systems and houses... although the balancing process takes several weeks... meaning it only becomes cost-effective if you do it yourself....
andimann schrieb:
The Differential Pressure Control Valve (DPCV) then does the final fine-tuning.Well, DPCV and “fine” are two different worlds…
The thermostat doesn’t actually adjust anything; it just serves its intended purpose, which is an emergency shutoff... so the heating loops get throttled once a certain temperature is reached, and the rooms’ temperatures then fluctuate around that set point...
Peanuts74 schrieb:
because in the attic floor the roof still counts as an “exterior wall”.Exactly... in the attic floor there are simply more losses than on the ground floor... and these have to be compensated by either a higher supply temperature or higher flow.
ypg schrieb:
Also, I would adjust the valves on the individual heating circuits, which you haven’t even mentioned yet. Increase the ones for the upper floor.This is the only “correct” way...
toddo schrieb:
By the way, DPCVs are very controversially discussed in other forums too. I can’t say what’s better; everyone has to decide that for themselves.In all forums, including here... in modern and daily-occupied houses, DPCVs are often as unnecessary as a lump on the throat...
P
Peanuts747 Mar 2017 13:48Knallkörper schrieb:
Why should the flow be slower on the upper floor compared to the ground floor? That is physically not plausible.
Depending on the length of the individual heating circuits, the resistance may be higher. Additionally, the water has to be pumped to a higher level. In other words, without a proper hydraulic balancing, the water will definitely flow more slowly upstairs. We experienced the same issue before balancing...
B
Bieber08157 Mar 2017 20:25Nafetsm schrieb:
The heating engineer said that this is normal because of many windows and that it always gets cooler in the roof area. We should just increase the flow temperature. What is the contractual situation? Who sold what to whom, and what was agreed upon? I mean, the scope of services should specify a design flow temperature. Based on the given external conditions, it should be possible to achieve a temperature everywhere that is considered sufficient using at most this flow temperature. Therefore, it cannot be normal that it is "cooler" upstairs. The normal expectation is that every room is as warm as the occupants desire.
K
Knallkörper8 Mar 2017 00:11Peanuts74 schrieb:
Depending on the length of each heating circuit, the resistance might be higher, and the water has to be pumped higher, meaning without a proper hydraulic balancing the water will definitely flow slower at the top, which is what we experienced before balancing...That is not physically correct. In a closed circuit, the pumping height does not matter. The extra length of 2.80m (9 feet) is also insignificant compared to the total length of the heating loops.
Furthermore, I am very satisfied with my electronic radiator thermostat (ERR); otherwise, how else would I implement staggered nighttime temperature setbacks per room? Otherwise, either nobody can sleep in the bedrooms, everyone freezes in other rooms, or windows are opened. I’m not concerned about having a green conscience, and energy costs don’t matter to me, but the system has to work in practice.
P
Peanuts748 Mar 2017 07:33Knallkörper schrieb:
That is not physically correct. In a closed loop system, the head pressure does not matter. The extra length of 2.80m (9 feet) is also irrelevant compared to the total length of the heating circuits.
Besides, I am very glad to have my ERR; otherwise, how could I implement staggered night setback heating for each room? If not, either no one can sleep in the bedrooms, or everyone else is freezing, or the window is opened. I’m not concerned about being eco-friendly, and energy costs don’t matter to me, but the system must work in practice.Okay, that’s true—since the water flows downward again on the other side, the head pressure shouldn’t matter. However, the question remains whether the heating circuits differ in length due to the number of rooms or the size of each room. For example, our longest circuit is over 100m (330 feet), the shortest just under 70m (230 feet), and that does cause pressure differences...
Similar topics