Dear forum members,
We are currently building a house and visited a flooring studio yesterday to look at floor coverings for the upper floor.
On the ground floor, we want to use tiles and have already chosen everything.
For the upper floor, we are deciding between engineered hardwood flooring (14mm thickness, 4mm wear layer) or a better-quality laminate (12mm thickness).
We prefer the feel and appearance of the engineered hardwood.
The salesperson mentioned that since we have underfloor heating, the room temperature does not drop as quickly in the evening or at night with engineered hardwood if it was heated during the day. This is because the wood stores heat for a longer time compared to laminate.
We also have children’s rooms upstairs, where it will be quite warm during the day, but of course it should cool down at night for sleeping.
Has anyone had experience with how well the room temperature can actually be regulated with engineered hardwood?
Thanks in advance.
We are currently building a house and visited a flooring studio yesterday to look at floor coverings for the upper floor.
On the ground floor, we want to use tiles and have already chosen everything.
For the upper floor, we are deciding between engineered hardwood flooring (14mm thickness, 4mm wear layer) or a better-quality laminate (12mm thickness).
We prefer the feel and appearance of the engineered hardwood.
The salesperson mentioned that since we have underfloor heating, the room temperature does not drop as quickly in the evening or at night with engineered hardwood if it was heated during the day. This is because the wood stores heat for a longer time compared to laminate.
We also have children’s rooms upstairs, where it will be quite warm during the day, but of course it should cool down at night for sleeping.
Has anyone had experience with how well the room temperature can actually be regulated with engineered hardwood?
Thanks in advance.
B
boxandroof14 Aug 2019 14:53I would base it on whether the floor is approved for underfloor heating or not. 0.15 m²K/W (1.0 ft²·°F·hr/Btu) is, as far as I know, the limit someone has come up with for this purpose. Lower is better. In the end, you will need a slightly higher supply temperature throughout the house. The "worst" room determines the supply temperature. The ground floor is throttled more, while the upper floor/parquet rooms get full flow. It doesn’t matter with gas heating, but with a heat pump it might cost about 50 € more per year.
If you heat with a heat pump, I would plan the underfloor heating so that in rooms with parquet the pipes are laid slightly closer together. In critical rooms with parquet (small but requiring high temperatures, e.g. an office/children’s room) you could add a few meters of underfloor heating in the wall, which completely solves the issue. Later, do the hydraulic balancing yourself/remove all thermostats or keep them fully open permanently and control the heating exclusively centrally to keep the supply temperature as low as possible. Always heat the upper floor hallway.
Make sure to glue the flooring. This also reduces the imbalance in heat emission capacity between the ground floor (tiles = very good) and parquet (less good) somewhat.
As already mentioned: the seller doesn’t know what they’re talking about, and unfortunately it won’t get any colder at night.
If you heat with a heat pump, I would plan the underfloor heating so that in rooms with parquet the pipes are laid slightly closer together. In critical rooms with parquet (small but requiring high temperatures, e.g. an office/children’s room) you could add a few meters of underfloor heating in the wall, which completely solves the issue. Later, do the hydraulic balancing yourself/remove all thermostats or keep them fully open permanently and control the heating exclusively centrally to keep the supply temperature as low as possible. Always heat the upper floor hallway.
Make sure to glue the flooring. This also reduces the imbalance in heat emission capacity between the ground floor (tiles = very good) and parquet (less good) somewhat.
As already mentioned: the seller doesn’t know what they’re talking about, and unfortunately it won’t get any colder at night.
boxandroof schrieb:
I would base it on whether the floor is approved for underfloor heating or not. As far as I know, 0.15 m²K/W (0.86 ft²·°F·hr/Btu) is the threshold someone came up with. Lower is better. In the end, you will need a few degrees higher flow temperature throughout the house. The "worst" room determines the flow temperature. The ground floor will be throttled more, the upper floor/parquet rooms get full flow. With gas, it doesn’t matter; with a heat pump, it might cost about €50 more per year.
If you heat with a heat pump, I would plan the underfloor heating so that in rooms with parquet the pipes are laid a bit closer together. In critical parquet rooms (small but require high temperature, e.g., an office/kids’ room), you could even include a few extra meters of heating pipes in the wall, which completely solves the issue. Afterwards, do the hydraulic balancing yourself—all thermostats removed or permanently fully open—and control the heating centrally to keep the flow temperature as low as possible. Always heat the first-floor hallway.
Make sure to fully glue the flooring. This also slightly reduces the imbalance in heat emission capacity between the ground floor (tiles = very good) and parquet (less good).
Already said: The seller doesn’t know what they’re talking about, and unfortunately, it won’t get any colder at night. I’ll ask again, thanks for the advice.
We heat with a gas condensing boiler.
The underfloor heating is already installed, so we have no influence on the pipe spacing anymore.
Yes, we definitely want to glue it.
One more thing... would you notice the height difference (also with a track) between the hallway (finished parquet 14 mm (0.55 inches) + ~1 mm (0.04 inches) adhesive) and the bathroom (10 mm (0.4 inches) tile + x mm adhesive), or would it end up roughly at the same height? We have porcelain stoneware as the floor tile, 60 x 60 cm (24 x 24 inches).
B
boxandroof14 Aug 2019 15:19chrisw81 schrieb:
Let me ask again Get the datasheet/manufacturer information for the covering.
chrisw81 schrieb:
One more thing... would the height difference (even with a transition strip) between the hallway (finished parquet 14mm (0.55 inches) + ~1mm (0.04 inches) adhesive) and the bathroom (10mm (0.39 inches) tile + x mm adhesive) be noticeable, or would it end up roughly the same height? We have porcelain stoneware floor tiles measuring 60 x 60 cm (24 x 24 inches).Our tiler wanted to know the height of the parquet and said that if necessary, he would slightly raise the tiles (using more adhesive or so). We don’t notice any height difference, but I didn’t ask further whether raising the tiles was actually needed anywhere.
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