ᐅ Is a soundproof door necessary for the utility room? Any experiences?
Created on: 22 Jul 2018 12:21
S
Skyfire
Hello everyone,
Our builder has offered us a soundproof door from Hörmann, climate class III / sound insulation class 2 (RwP 37 dB).
We have an internally installed air-to-water heat pump, controlled mechanical ventilation with heat recovery in the utility room, and otherwise the usual installations including a washer/dryer.
Is a soundproof door necessary or useful in this case? It would cost us an additional 200 euros compared to a standard door.
What about the controlled mechanical ventilation with such a door? Would the air be able to circulate, or would the ventilation be affected?
What do you think?
Thank you
Regards
Sky
Our builder has offered us a soundproof door from Hörmann, climate class III / sound insulation class 2 (RwP 37 dB).
We have an internally installed air-to-water heat pump, controlled mechanical ventilation with heat recovery in the utility room, and otherwise the usual installations including a washer/dryer.
Is a soundproof door necessary or useful in this case? It would cost us an additional 200 euros compared to a standard door.
What about the controlled mechanical ventilation with such a door? Would the air be able to circulate, or would the ventilation be affected?
What do you think?
Thank you
Regards
Sky
B
Bieber081527 Jul 2018 21:49The utility room should have an exhaust air connection, meaning it should be connected to the mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery. For the door, a drop seal with an overflow function would be suitable. I believe I have described this several times here in the forum, and it can also be easily found by searching online.
To get back to the main topic:
I always smile when I see the term "soundproof door"... My neighbor (a custom furniture carpenter) had completely ordinary solid wood doors in his house. Nothing special or fancy, just solid oak doors. They acted like a sound barrier ^^ The teenagers in the kids’ room were gaming and yelling so loudly that it was deafening. We were sitting next door chatting, but you couldn’t hear your own words because of the noise.
At some point, my neighbor told his sons to close the door.
I thought to myself, what good would that do? With the way they were shouting, it seemed pointless.
But once the door was closed, it was completely quiet! As I said, no soundproof door or anything like that, just mass from real, solid wood—no hollow core junk or anything.
Of course, this also requires suitable door frames and hinges.
I then did the same with my workshop door. Originally it had hollow core doors, and when I was using the router, it was very loud in there—watching TV comfortably was out of the question.
So I glued a heavy fiberboard panel onto the door and added a thin layer of a cheap cabinet back panel on top for the appearance (cheaper than veneer ^^).
Since I couldn’t reinforce the frames and hinges, I simply added a small support wheel to the door to carry the weight.
With some good weatherstripping added, that was it.
And voilà, no noise anymore outside the door, it’s really absolutely silent—now you can’t even hear the compressor.
What I want to say:
It doesn’t have to be a special “soundproof” door; a simple, well-adjusted solid door with proper seals does the same job.
I always smile when I see the term "soundproof door"... My neighbor (a custom furniture carpenter) had completely ordinary solid wood doors in his house. Nothing special or fancy, just solid oak doors. They acted like a sound barrier ^^ The teenagers in the kids’ room were gaming and yelling so loudly that it was deafening. We were sitting next door chatting, but you couldn’t hear your own words because of the noise.
At some point, my neighbor told his sons to close the door.
I thought to myself, what good would that do? With the way they were shouting, it seemed pointless.
But once the door was closed, it was completely quiet! As I said, no soundproof door or anything like that, just mass from real, solid wood—no hollow core junk or anything.
Of course, this also requires suitable door frames and hinges.
I then did the same with my workshop door. Originally it had hollow core doors, and when I was using the router, it was very loud in there—watching TV comfortably was out of the question.
So I glued a heavy fiberboard panel onto the door and added a thin layer of a cheap cabinet back panel on top for the appearance (cheaper than veneer ^^).
Since I couldn’t reinforce the frames and hinges, I simply added a small support wheel to the door to carry the weight.
With some good weatherstripping added, that was it.
And voilà, no noise anymore outside the door, it’s really absolutely silent—now you can’t even hear the compressor.
What I want to say:
It doesn’t have to be a special “soundproof” door; a simple, well-adjusted solid door with proper seals does the same job.
A soundproof door is essentially the same: it is more solid than a regular door and comes with a seal. You can’t just buy any solid door and add a seal yourself... first, it wouldn’t be any cheaper, and second, a soundproof door is supposed to look like the other doors.
Regards,
Sabine
Regards,
Sabine
Our utility room, where the Tecalor system is installed (identical to Stiebel), is integrated into the mechanical ventilation with heat recovery system! There is a supply air vent in one corner and an exhaust air vent diagonally opposite — this is how it was designed by the installers.
... it is also very convenient for drying laundry, it dries very well and the room never gets too humid.
... it is also very convenient for drying laundry, it dries very well and the room never gets too humid.
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