Hello everyone,
We are considering whether to install an irrigation system and, if so, what type of system to choose. Our landscape gardener strongly recommends irrigation mats from iMat. According to him, with these mats, you no longer have to worry about watering, and the plants receive water exactly where they need it. On the other hand, another landscaper said he would only install a basic irrigation system with sprinklers in the lawn area.
The concept behind the mats sounds quite plausible, but they are also quite expensive. Additionally, I am concerned that they could be very inflexible for future modifications in the garden, which I think are quite likely. Besides, I would prefer to invest the money in the pool project. Wouldn’t it be possible to plan and install something practical myself that reliably covers the basics, such as watering the lawn?
What are your experiences if you are already using similar systems or faced the same question?
We are considering whether to install an irrigation system and, if so, what type of system to choose. Our landscape gardener strongly recommends irrigation mats from iMat. According to him, with these mats, you no longer have to worry about watering, and the plants receive water exactly where they need it. On the other hand, another landscaper said he would only install a basic irrigation system with sprinklers in the lawn area.
The concept behind the mats sounds quite plausible, but they are also quite expensive. Additionally, I am concerned that they could be very inflexible for future modifications in the garden, which I think are quite likely. Besides, I would prefer to invest the money in the pool project. Wouldn’t it be possible to plan and install something practical myself that reliably covers the basics, such as watering the lawn?
What are your experiences if you are already using similar systems or faced the same question?
H
HoisleBauer2218 Jul 2022 23:03haydee schrieb:
Set up properly sized rainwater barrels How many liters would that be per square meter of surface?
And just by the way: What is the general consensus in the forum regarding the issue that all water from the sewer system, after treatment at the wastewater plant, eventually ends up back in streams/rivers and also in the groundwater, where it is urgently needed?
@HoisleBauer22
It depends on what you regularly water with the watering can. Containers, vegetables that don’t like wet leaves, plants that need soft rainwater, etc. For three planters on the terrace, a stylish one with 250 liters (66 gallons) is sufficient; if you have a container garden, it might need refilling every other day.
If possible, I would prefer a cistern with a pump over water barrels.
The drought monitor at 1.8 meters (6 feet) depth shows mainly dark red in the Black Forest. Surface water is somewhat better in places but still scarce overall.
It depends on what you regularly water with the watering can. Containers, vegetables that don’t like wet leaves, plants that need soft rainwater, etc. For three planters on the terrace, a stylish one with 250 liters (66 gallons) is sufficient; if you have a container garden, it might need refilling every other day.
If possible, I would prefer a cistern with a pump over water barrels.
The drought monitor at 1.8 meters (6 feet) depth shows mainly dark red in the Black Forest. Surface water is somewhat better in places but still scarce overall.
haydee schrieb:
Just as an example: Our last rain was at the beginning of May. The hedge planted in autumn 2018/spring 2019 has not been watered yet. The prairie bed, planted in autumn 2019 (gets full sun all day), will be watered for the first time today or tomorrow. The roses planted in autumn 2019 also have not seen any irrigation water. The lawn/meadow (roots usually only 10-15 cm (4-6 inches) deep) has turned to hay. Even the clover is brown.Since you obviously have quite a green thumb and I have absolutely no idea:
How do you decide when to water these plants again? Why, for example, "today or tomorrow"?
Is it based on experience? Visual inspection of the plants? Soil moisture measurements ...? 🙂
netuser schrieb:
Since you clearly have a real talent for plants and I have absolutely no idea:
How do you decide when to water the plants you mentioned? Why, for example, “today or tomorrow”?
Experience? Visual impression of the plants? Soil moisture measurements …? 🙂 It varies. I rely on how the plants look. Many plants appear to be wilting in the heat but usually recover overnight. If they still look limp in the morning, it’s time to water. These aren’t food crops, but plants that can tolerate heat and drought. If it’s ever too late, most will regrow. They know how to manage on their own. My hollyhocks this year are only waist-high instead of the usual 2 meters (6.5 ft).
With hedges, the leaves look dull and less fresh. Since they haven’t dropped or wilted yet, there’s no urgent need, but watering will be necessary soon.
Container plants require more effort, and vegetables don’t really forgive mistakes. For those, I also use my hands — I move aside mulch and loosen some soil.
Watch your plants and don’t be afraid to try. Trial and error is part of it. Whether you want a lawn that’s green year-round, a natural-style garden (the easiest to maintain), or one with Mediterranean plants, some things require overcoming hesitation. I find it difficult to water sparingly or to accept when a plant choice was wrong.
By “wrong,” I mean that the plant doesn’t suit the location, soil, etc.
@DASI90
back to the topic
You want an evergreen lawn, some perennials, trees, shrubs, and flowers, and you plan to use tap water. Is that correct?
Are there any restrictions in the zoning plan or planning permission regarding planting? That can be quite limiting.
For the lawn, get help from @rick2018 with designing the irrigation system. He has done this several times here.
For the rest, think about where and how you want to plant. I would plant those without automatic irrigation. Tap water costs money, and prices tend to rise.
Choose plants that can largely manage without irrigation after about 2 years. Use a thick layer of suitable mulch (plastic-free to suppress weeds). If it gets hot and dry, you can still use a garden hose. Individual plants, raised beds, and pots can be watered with a watering can and rainwater.
If you choose water-loving plants, you will also need irrigation for them.
I would recommend choosing trees that stay relatively small. Your garden is not very large. A walnut tree will take up too much space after 40 years.
back to the topic
You want an evergreen lawn, some perennials, trees, shrubs, and flowers, and you plan to use tap water. Is that correct?
Are there any restrictions in the zoning plan or planning permission regarding planting? That can be quite limiting.
For the lawn, get help from @rick2018 with designing the irrigation system. He has done this several times here.
For the rest, think about where and how you want to plant. I would plant those without automatic irrigation. Tap water costs money, and prices tend to rise.
Choose plants that can largely manage without irrigation after about 2 years. Use a thick layer of suitable mulch (plastic-free to suppress weeds). If it gets hot and dry, you can still use a garden hose. Individual plants, raised beds, and pots can be watered with a watering can and rainwater.
If you choose water-loving plants, you will also need irrigation for them.
I would recommend choosing trees that stay relatively small. Your garden is not very large. A walnut tree will take up too much space after 40 years.
B
BBaumeister20 Jul 2022 13:52€7,500 is quite a substantial amount. It can be done much more cheaply. We have nearly 350 sqm (3,767 sq ft) of lawn area and about 150 sqm (1,615 sq ft) of beds and hedges.
From the beginning, I had a 1-inch (25 mm) pipe installed to the garage for fresh water with a separate meter. In the basement, there are two pressure reducers, so I get six bar (87 psi) on the "garden line." This also fills the pool quite quickly.
What’s simplest: I have a total of eight different channels/irrigation zones controlled by solenoid valves and a computer (all from Hunter). Connected to these are six rotor sprinklers for the lawn (throwing about 14 meters (46 feet) and misting very well). For the beds and hedges, I use either drip hoses or spray stakes. This way, I can regulate the different water needs of the plants very well and individually. For example, one hedge is almost completely shaded and needs very little water, while the vegetable bed is in full sun and requires much more water. The entire system cost about €1,800 (around $1,900) in materials. Installation was done by myself and, since the garden was still a rough area, relatively simple. Even the solenoid valves and cables are housed quite neatly in a hanging toolbox, where I just cut a slot at the bottom for the outgoing pipes. The system has been working flawlessly now for four years.
From the beginning, I had a 1-inch (25 mm) pipe installed to the garage for fresh water with a separate meter. In the basement, there are two pressure reducers, so I get six bar (87 psi) on the "garden line." This also fills the pool quite quickly.
What’s simplest: I have a total of eight different channels/irrigation zones controlled by solenoid valves and a computer (all from Hunter). Connected to these are six rotor sprinklers for the lawn (throwing about 14 meters (46 feet) and misting very well). For the beds and hedges, I use either drip hoses or spray stakes. This way, I can regulate the different water needs of the plants very well and individually. For example, one hedge is almost completely shaded and needs very little water, while the vegetable bed is in full sun and requires much more water. The entire system cost about €1,800 (around $1,900) in materials. Installation was done by myself and, since the garden was still a rough area, relatively simple. Even the solenoid valves and cables are housed quite neatly in a hanging toolbox, where I just cut a slot at the bottom for the outgoing pipes. The system has been working flawlessly now for four years.
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