Hello everyone,
We are considering whether to install an irrigation system and, if so, what type of system to choose. Our landscape gardener strongly recommends irrigation mats from iMat. According to him, with these mats, you no longer have to worry about watering, and the plants receive water exactly where they need it. On the other hand, another landscaper said he would only install a basic irrigation system with sprinklers in the lawn area.
The concept behind the mats sounds quite plausible, but they are also quite expensive. Additionally, I am concerned that they could be very inflexible for future modifications in the garden, which I think are quite likely. Besides, I would prefer to invest the money in the pool project. Wouldn’t it be possible to plan and install something practical myself that reliably covers the basics, such as watering the lawn?
What are your experiences if you are already using similar systems or faced the same question?
We are considering whether to install an irrigation system and, if so, what type of system to choose. Our landscape gardener strongly recommends irrigation mats from iMat. According to him, with these mats, you no longer have to worry about watering, and the plants receive water exactly where they need it. On the other hand, another landscaper said he would only install a basic irrigation system with sprinklers in the lawn area.
The concept behind the mats sounds quite plausible, but they are also quite expensive. Additionally, I am concerned that they could be very inflexible for future modifications in the garden, which I think are quite likely. Besides, I would prefer to invest the money in the pool project. Wouldn’t it be possible to plan and install something practical myself that reliably covers the basics, such as watering the lawn?
What are your experiences if you are already using similar systems or faced the same question?
Consider carefully where you install an irrigation system. From my point of view, this is not intended as a discussion about the pros and cons of lawn irrigation or an ecological argument.
With drip irrigation, you encourage plants not to develop deep roots, so they remain dependent on regular watering. Plants that develop deep roots (roses about 1 meter (3 feet)) are watered rarely but thoroughly and allowed to dry out repeatedly, which encourages strong root growth downward.
A classic green, relatively soft, weed-free lawn maintained short by a robotic mower typically roots only about 10 centimeters (4 inches) deep and relies on irrigation. Otherwise, it will become a brown patch interrupted by hardy weeds. Check the drought monitor for reference—there are very few regions where there is still enough plant-available water at a depth of 25 centimeters (10 inches).
Just as an example: Our last rainfall was in early May. The hedge planted in autumn 2018 / spring 2019 has not been watered yet. The prairie bed, planted in autumn 2019 (in full sun all day), will be watered for the first time today or tomorrow. The roses planted in autumn 2019 have not yet received any irrigation water. The lawn/meadow (usually rooting only 10–15 centimeters (4–6 inches)) is now just dry grass. Even the clover is brown.
Regarding the mat: The mat prevents deep root growth—it acts as a root barrier. Therefore, in perennial beds, hedges, and similar plantings, in my opinion, it is unsuitable and counterproductive in the long term. It can even cause low-maintenance plants to become high-maintenance because space for roots and soil organisms is lacking.
How is the different water demand regulated? For a lawn that is always green but cannot develop deep roots, I think the mat is not so bad. There is no water evaporation.
With drip irrigation, you encourage plants not to develop deep roots, so they remain dependent on regular watering. Plants that develop deep roots (roses about 1 meter (3 feet)) are watered rarely but thoroughly and allowed to dry out repeatedly, which encourages strong root growth downward.
A classic green, relatively soft, weed-free lawn maintained short by a robotic mower typically roots only about 10 centimeters (4 inches) deep and relies on irrigation. Otherwise, it will become a brown patch interrupted by hardy weeds. Check the drought monitor for reference—there are very few regions where there is still enough plant-available water at a depth of 25 centimeters (10 inches).
Just as an example: Our last rainfall was in early May. The hedge planted in autumn 2018 / spring 2019 has not been watered yet. The prairie bed, planted in autumn 2019 (in full sun all day), will be watered for the first time today or tomorrow. The roses planted in autumn 2019 have not yet received any irrigation water. The lawn/meadow (usually rooting only 10–15 centimeters (4–6 inches)) is now just dry grass. Even the clover is brown.
Regarding the mat: The mat prevents deep root growth—it acts as a root barrier. Therefore, in perennial beds, hedges, and similar plantings, in my opinion, it is unsuitable and counterproductive in the long term. It can even cause low-maintenance plants to become high-maintenance because space for roots and soil organisms is lacking.
How is the different water demand regulated? For a lawn that is always green but cannot develop deep roots, I think the mat is not so bad. There is no water evaporation.
W
WilderSueden18 Jul 2022 16:42If you are already doubtful about whether the money is well spent, just skip it. Haydee has summarized the situation quite well. Here are some additional questions:
- What kind of climate and soil do you actually have?
- Where does the water for irrigation come from?
- Is there enough water available during 4–6 weeks of dry and hot weather?
- What kind of climate and soil do you actually have?
- Where does the water for irrigation come from?
- Is there enough water available during 4–6 weeks of dry and hot weather?
Water in the soil is not lost. Water scarcity is also a local phenomenon.
Grass roots, depending on the species and irrigation, can also grow deeper.
Such systems are also available from Hunter.
I would not recommend it. More expensive than sprinklers, you cannot simply dig a hole, problem areas cannot be irrigated more intensively, no control/monitoring, and repairs are complicated in case of damage.
Use sprinklers (e.g., Hunter’s pressure-compensated sprinkler bodies with rotators), and for drip tubing (above ground or buried) Rainbird XFS. For trees, direct root irrigation with a bubbler in the soil.
This way, you can specifically address the water needs of individual areas or plants.
Irrigation should be done in the early morning hours, so the soil is cool and there is no sun, resulting in low evaporation.
Always remember that sprinklers should overlap their coverage (head to head).
Grass roots, depending on the species and irrigation, can also grow deeper.
Such systems are also available from Hunter.
I would not recommend it. More expensive than sprinklers, you cannot simply dig a hole, problem areas cannot be irrigated more intensively, no control/monitoring, and repairs are complicated in case of damage.
Use sprinklers (e.g., Hunter’s pressure-compensated sprinkler bodies with rotators), and for drip tubing (above ground or buried) Rainbird XFS. For trees, direct root irrigation with a bubbler in the soil.
This way, you can specifically address the water needs of individual areas or plants.
Irrigation should be done in the early morning hours, so the soil is cool and there is no sun, resulting in low evaporation.
Always remember that sprinklers should overlap their coverage (head to head).
Thanks to everyone for your opinions.
@haydee: That matches what the other expert mentioned.
@rick2018: I think you are absolutely right. On paper, it sounds much better than it probably is in practice. It’s definitely not terrible, but as you pointed out in some areas, it’s impractical. Can a layperson plan and implement this simultaneously? I don’t want to overdo it now. But at least the lawn should stay green, and the trees and hedges should establish well. What would be a realistic budget for about 150 sqm (1,615 sq ft) of area to irrigate?
@haydee: That matches what the other expert mentioned.
@rick2018: I think you are absolutely right. On paper, it sounds much better than it probably is in practice. It’s definitely not terrible, but as you pointed out in some areas, it’s impractical. Can a layperson plan and implement this simultaneously? I don’t want to overdo it now. But at least the lawn should stay green, and the trees and hedges should establish well. What would be a realistic budget for about 150 sqm (1,615 sq ft) of area to irrigate?
Search for irrigation in this forum. I have already written quite a bit about it.
Where does the water come from? Cistern, well, fresh water…
150m2 (1615 sq ft) is not large. The shape matters here. A 150m2 (1615 sq ft) rectangular area can be covered with 4-6 sprinklers.
Use PE-HD pipe (DN32), which is standard potable water piping.
Install everything during the construction phase, running it out of the house.
Pressure and flow rate are important. The more you have, the larger you can make the “zones.” The fewer “zones” you need, the fewer valves you require.
150m2 (1615 sq ft) with lawn and drip irrigation, valve box, and controller costs under 1500€.
This allows you to water conveniently whether you are home or not. Whether you just want to keep the plants alive or pamper them…
Where does the water come from? Cistern, well, fresh water…
150m2 (1615 sq ft) is not large. The shape matters here. A 150m2 (1615 sq ft) rectangular area can be covered with 4-6 sprinklers.
Use PE-HD pipe (DN32), which is standard potable water piping.
Install everything during the construction phase, running it out of the house.
Pressure and flow rate are important. The more you have, the larger you can make the “zones.” The fewer “zones” you need, the fewer valves you require.
150m2 (1615 sq ft) with lawn and drip irrigation, valve box, and controller costs under 1500€.
This allows you to water conveniently whether you are home or not. Whether you just want to keep the plants alive or pamper them…
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