Hello,
I want to have a cavity wall insulation installed in an old building (1935) with an 8cm (3 inch) air gap in the double-layer masonry by injecting Rockwool.
Similarly, cellulose insulation for the attic and basement ceiling.
(1) Are there any general precautions that the contractor might not mention beforehand, to avoid problems like mold later in the insulated cavity?
For example, I imagine that in winter the outer wall could become extremely cold due to the insulation (since it is no longer heated from the inside...) and water vapor coming from the inner wall and insulation might condense on the inside of the outer wall, because the dew point could be reached there, causing the cavity to become damp.
(2) In old buildings, window reveals are always a major issue because the wall thickness relevant for heat transfer is limited by the construction type to about the width of the window frame (7cm / 3 inches), making the reveal very cold in winter and prone to condensation or mold if ventilation or heating is insufficient.
Now, cavity insulation does not really improve the situation there, since around the window the cavity to be insulated is absent and replaced by a layer of bricks with corresponding thermal conductivity, so cavity insulation basically (*) does not change anything there.
Are there any useful additional measures for a plastered building? I am thinking, for example, of PU wedge profiles with a thickness from 0 to 4cm (0-1.5 inches) that are attached to the OUTER window reveal to reduce heat loss there (and thus raise the temperature of the inner wall). Since the building needs repainting anyway, that could make sense. Do such products exist? If so, where? (**)
Thank you very much in advance for your help!
P.S.
(*)
Since cavity insulation usually starts about 20cm (8 inches) away from the window, the wall temperature at the reveal will slightly change, but I assume only minimally.
(**)
Note: Insulation on the inner side of the reveals could also be done with calcium silicate boards (if there is enough space). I have good experience with this, but find it less convenient because you need to consider it every time you wallpaper afterwards.
I want to have a cavity wall insulation installed in an old building (1935) with an 8cm (3 inch) air gap in the double-layer masonry by injecting Rockwool.
Similarly, cellulose insulation for the attic and basement ceiling.
(1) Are there any general precautions that the contractor might not mention beforehand, to avoid problems like mold later in the insulated cavity?
For example, I imagine that in winter the outer wall could become extremely cold due to the insulation (since it is no longer heated from the inside...) and water vapor coming from the inner wall and insulation might condense on the inside of the outer wall, because the dew point could be reached there, causing the cavity to become damp.
(2) In old buildings, window reveals are always a major issue because the wall thickness relevant for heat transfer is limited by the construction type to about the width of the window frame (7cm / 3 inches), making the reveal very cold in winter and prone to condensation or mold if ventilation or heating is insufficient.
Now, cavity insulation does not really improve the situation there, since around the window the cavity to be insulated is absent and replaced by a layer of bricks with corresponding thermal conductivity, so cavity insulation basically (*) does not change anything there.
Are there any useful additional measures for a plastered building? I am thinking, for example, of PU wedge profiles with a thickness from 0 to 4cm (0-1.5 inches) that are attached to the OUTER window reveal to reduce heat loss there (and thus raise the temperature of the inner wall). Since the building needs repainting anyway, that could make sense. Do such products exist? If so, where? (**)
Thank you very much in advance for your help!
P.S.
(*)
Since cavity insulation usually starts about 20cm (8 inches) away from the window, the wall temperature at the reveal will slightly change, but I assume only minimally.
(**)
Note: Insulation on the inner side of the reveals could also be done with calcium silicate boards (if there is enough space). I have good experience with this, but find it less convenient because you need to consider it every time you wallpaper afterwards.
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