ᐅ Adding Additional Insulation to a Wooden Basement Door from the Inside
Created on: 5 Jan 2025 16:30
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Bad_Bremen
Hello!
I have and need:
Quick and simple insulation
Do you have better or faster ideas? I actually plan to remove it again in summer. Hopefully, we will have a new door around 2027 or so.
What do you think?
I have and need:
- An older exterior door insulated with 18cm (7 inches) mineral wool and triple glazing all around – only the old cellar door (wood with single-glazed safety glass window) was beyond the budget. Until a new, modern door arrives, I would like to add insulation from the inside. I have on hand
- a lot of 20mm (0.8 inches) thick XPS and some of this very thick aluminum-laminated PIR:
Quick and simple insulation
- Materials:
- Dow Floormate 200 (XPS) boards
- Double-sided tape (removable)
- Vapor-permeable membrane or nonwoven fabric (optional, to prevent condensation)
- Utility knife and ruler
- Self-adhesive weatherstripping (for the edges)
- Procedure:
- Cutting: Cut the XPS boards to the dimensions of the door. If you want to cover the glass, cut a separate piece for the glass area.
- Intermediate layer (optional): To prevent condensation, adhere a vapor-permeable membrane or a thin anti-condensation fleece to the back of the XPS panels (the side facing the door).
- Installation: Attach the boards to the inside of the door using the double-sided tape. Make sure they fit tightly but leave small gaps for air circulation at the top and bottom (about 2mm (0.08 inches) each).
- Improving door seals: Apply self-adhesive weatherstripping around the edges of the door to prevent drafts.
Do you have better or faster ideas? I actually plan to remove it again in summer. Hopefully, we will have a new door around 2027 or so.
What do you think?
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nordanney6 Jan 2025 17:21Bad_Bremen schrieb:
Quick question: By 1. do you mean "Bucht," like setting up an eBay alert to snag a deal after some time? Or any book?! Exactly. Classified ads.
Bad_Bremen schrieb:
And the PUR from the outside and not from the inside? Yes, from the outside.
Bad_Bremen schrieb:
Outside I'd have to protect it with tape or something against water. No, that won’t be an issue for the material.
Of course, you can also work with the chipboard. But you’ll get the best results by gluing the PUR foam to the glass on the outside. The frame/wood will also get cold, but that only accounts for about 10% of the total door area. I managed to get through winter quite well in a bathroom with single-glazed windows before I could install new ones in spring. That’s where my idea comes from. You’ll notice a huge difference.
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Bad_Bremen6 Jan 2025 23:24So, I looked for secondary entrance doors on classified ads websites—currently, there is nothing modern within a 100km (62 miles) radius. On eBay, not a single one has been sold nationwide in the last three months—so I came up with the idea to check the prices for affordable secondary entrance doors from Poland… and during my research into customer experiences with many online suppliers (including installation), I found a post by a certain @nordanney.
Question: Our other secondary entrance door facing the street cost a total of 2,300 (gross) from the local carpenter:
"White plastic window and door unit with a finished depth of 88mm (3.5 inches), concealed tilt-turn hardware. Triple insulating glazing with a Ug value of 0.5, including continuous warm edge spacer. Installation compliant with the 2014 energy saving regulations.
Uw value for a standard window 1230 × 1480mm (48.4 × 58.3 inches) <= 0.84 W/(m²K)."
The hardware is from KFV, the supplier is Porta Fenster (from Westfalica...), and the profiles are from Kömmerling. Somehow, it all felt a bit overwhelming. Compared to the double-leaf main entrance door, which lets in drafts ("you can’t avoid this in an older building"), the street-facing secondary entrance door seals very well and also looks quite high quality.
The garden secondary entrance door would be 79 × 198 cm (31 × 78 inches), and the threshold outside is 2 cm (0.8 inches) lower.
I have now inquired about the following specifications with two Polish portals:
Currently, the door opens outward. From a security perspective, inward opening would be better, as I understand. There is enough space for that as well. What do you advise on this? Actually, P4A hardly makes sense either, since there are three adjacent windows with no security features at all. If a burglar wants to get in, they would probably break those first…
Are Polish secondary entrance doors significantly cheaper? Does anyone have concrete experience with any door portals or can recommend a portal reviewer where customers share their experiences?
Best regards!


Question: Our other secondary entrance door facing the street cost a total of 2,300 (gross) from the local carpenter:
"White plastic window and door unit with a finished depth of 88mm (3.5 inches), concealed tilt-turn hardware. Triple insulating glazing with a Ug value of 0.5, including continuous warm edge spacer. Installation compliant with the 2014 energy saving regulations.
Uw value for a standard window 1230 × 1480mm (48.4 × 58.3 inches) <= 0.84 W/(m²K)."
The hardware is from KFV, the supplier is Porta Fenster (from Westfalica...), and the profiles are from Kömmerling. Somehow, it all felt a bit overwhelming. Compared to the double-leaf main entrance door, which lets in drafts ("you can’t avoid this in an older building"), the street-facing secondary entrance door seals very well and also looks quite high quality.
The garden secondary entrance door would be 79 × 198 cm (31 × 78 inches), and the threshold outside is 2 cm (0.8 inches) lower.
I have now inquired about the following specifications with two Polish portals:
- Width: 970 mm (38 inches) | Height: 1980 mm (78 inches)
- 3 locking points | 2 swing bolts
- U-value under 0.9
- RC2 (resistance class)
- P4A (burglar resistance class)
Currently, the door opens outward. From a security perspective, inward opening would be better, as I understand. There is enough space for that as well. What do you advise on this? Actually, P4A hardly makes sense either, since there are three adjacent windows with no security features at all. If a burglar wants to get in, they would probably break those first…
Are Polish secondary entrance doors significantly cheaper? Does anyone have concrete experience with any door portals or can recommend a portal reviewer where customers share their experiences?
Best regards!
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Bad_Bremen6 Jan 2025 23:25nordanney schrieb:
Yes, from the outside.Final question: Are you referring to the thick PIR boards or the thin XPS boards? Should the aluminum face inward or outward? What is the best adhesive to use?N
nordanney7 Jan 2025 07:54Bad_Bremen schrieb:
Are you referring to the thick PIR boards or the thin XPS boards?I mean the PIR boards. Just attach them with PU adhesive foam; aluminum can face outward (water-repellent).Similar topics