Hello everyone,
we are planning to install 20mm (3/4 inch) thick oak floorboards in our new build. In various forums, especially recent posts, it is often mentioned that a floating installation is at least possible. However, despite thorough research, I haven’t found much concrete information.
A Dutch wood supplier apparently recommends a floating installation using spacer clips along the walls. However, this is said not to be ideal. Another system uses clips to attach the individual boards but is quite expensive.
I just want to glue the tongue and groove joints and otherwise keep the floor floating. The subfloor would consist of a vapor barrier and 3-5mm (1/8–3/16 inch) impact sound insulation.
Question for you:
Who has done or seen something like this before?
What are your experiences?
What conditions need to be met to make this work?
we are planning to install 20mm (3/4 inch) thick oak floorboards in our new build. In various forums, especially recent posts, it is often mentioned that a floating installation is at least possible. However, despite thorough research, I haven’t found much concrete information.
A Dutch wood supplier apparently recommends a floating installation using spacer clips along the walls. However, this is said not to be ideal. Another system uses clips to attach the individual boards but is quite expensive.
I just want to glue the tongue and groove joints and otherwise keep the floor floating. The subfloor would consist of a vapor barrier and 3-5mm (1/8–3/16 inch) impact sound insulation.
Question for you:
Who has done or seen something like this before?
What are your experiences?
What conditions need to be met to make this work?
Neige schrieb:
Good luck and please keep us updated This will still take a very long time. I’m thinking more around autumn/winter. I’m currently planning a new build, and right now the type and composition of the screed are being determined. To some extent, this is influenced by the flooring that will be installed afterwards. And the type of flooring is again influenced by the costs and the possible amount of DIY work. That’s why I’m asking so early.
I keep reading about expansion joints at the edges. Depending on the width or length of the installation, there are incredible values reported—everything from 10 to 30 mm (0.4 to 1.2 inches). And yes, of course, I’m aware of the 0.26% expansion per meter (3.3 feet) of solid oak per 1% change in moisture content. But over 5 meters (16 feet), that would be about 13 mm (0.5 inches), and I’ve been wondering for some time how the adhesive would handle that.
I mean, with floating floors that makes perfect sense because the lengths add up along each plank. But with glued planks, the outermost plank shouldn’t be able to shift that much without the adhesive failing. As I said, even experts haven’t been able to give me a satisfactory answer so far. They just say 10-20 mm (0.4-0.8 inches) because of expansion.
Would you recommend that a beginner go for lengths between 50 and 200 cm (20 to 79 inches) or rather 200 to 300 cm (79 to 118 inches)? And should the width be around 14 cm (5.5 inches) or rather 18 cm (7 inches)?
Thanks for your response.
The length and width do not depend on your skill but rather on what you prefer. The moisture content of the wood is a crucial factor for a successful result. Ideally, it should be 10-12%, which means the floorboards will no longer expand or contract excessively. Manufacturers recommend using flexible adhesives for their products, and it is important to follow their guidelines. A gap of around 15mm (0.6 inches) from the wall is usually sufficient.
In summary, a well-prepared subfloor, humidity, installation temperature, room temperature, residual moisture of the wood, and suitable adhesives are essential for success and achieving the desired outcome.
Best regards,
Sigi
In summary, a well-prepared subfloor, humidity, installation temperature, room temperature, residual moisture of the wood, and suitable adhesives are essential for success and achieving the desired outcome.
Best regards,
Sigi
I don’t believe that. A wall gap of 15mm (0.6 inches) only makes sense if the floorboard can actually be moved that far toward the wall. I can well imagine this with floating floors. But with glued floorboards, I can’t imagine any adhesive that would endure such pressure even once, no matter how elastic it is.
As mentioned before, this is an average value and allows the floor enough flexibility. This does not necessarily mean that the floor actually requires that much space. An adhesive like this can absorb quite a bit and allows the floor to move.
As stated earlier, the components mentioned above are important to achieve a durable floor. Of course, you have to expect minimal joint formation. No manufacturer in the world can completely guarantee otherwise. Wood is, after all, a natural material with all its inherent characteristics.
Therefore, my advice is either to reconsider or simply accept the nature of the wood product.
As stated earlier, the components mentioned above are important to achieve a durable floor. Of course, you have to expect minimal joint formation. No manufacturer in the world can completely guarantee otherwise. Wood is, after all, a natural material with all its inherent characteristics.
Therefore, my advice is either to reconsider or simply accept the nature of the wood product.
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