Hello everyone,
we are planning to install 20mm (3/4 inch) thick oak floorboards in our new build. In various forums, especially recent posts, it is often mentioned that a floating installation is at least possible. However, despite thorough research, I haven’t found much concrete information.
A Dutch wood supplier apparently recommends a floating installation using spacer clips along the walls. However, this is said not to be ideal. Another system uses clips to attach the individual boards but is quite expensive.
I just want to glue the tongue and groove joints and otherwise keep the floor floating. The subfloor would consist of a vapor barrier and 3-5mm (1/8–3/16 inch) impact sound insulation.
Question for you:
Who has done or seen something like this before?
What are your experiences?
What conditions need to be met to make this work?
we are planning to install 20mm (3/4 inch) thick oak floorboards in our new build. In various forums, especially recent posts, it is often mentioned that a floating installation is at least possible. However, despite thorough research, I haven’t found much concrete information.
A Dutch wood supplier apparently recommends a floating installation using spacer clips along the walls. However, this is said not to be ideal. Another system uses clips to attach the individual boards but is quite expensive.
I just want to glue the tongue and groove joints and otherwise keep the floor floating. The subfloor would consist of a vapor barrier and 3-5mm (1/8–3/16 inch) impact sound insulation.
Question for you:
Who has done or seen something like this before?
What are your experiences?
What conditions need to be met to make this work?
N
nordanney31 Jan 2016 14:25Also available as a long plank.
Hey Sigi, now tell me – you’re the expert here:
I installed 35m² (approximately 377 sq ft) of click flooring in a double L-shape. This included trimming the doorframe and installing a transition strip. It turned out well.
Last autumn, I tiled two rooms. In one, I tiled just the floor; in the other, I tiled up to the height of the door. The tiling on the wall – well, not so great. But both floors look really good.
My woodworker friend thinks I could manage the glue-down method (it doesn’t have to be a two-component adhesive). But I’m worried about the boards twisting. How should I control that?
Do you think I can do it?
Best regards,
michael
I installed 35m² (approximately 377 sq ft) of click flooring in a double L-shape. This included trimming the doorframe and installing a transition strip. It turned out well.
Last autumn, I tiled two rooms. In one, I tiled just the floor; in the other, I tiled up to the height of the door. The tiling on the wall – well, not so great. But both floors look really good.
My woodworker friend thinks I could manage the glue-down method (it doesn’t have to be a two-component adhesive). But I’m worried about the boards twisting. How should I control that?
Do you think I can do it?
Best regards,
michael
N
nordanney2 Feb 2016 19:38Well, if you buy good quality materials, you won’t have any warped floorboards. It’s the same as with decking boards; there are good ones and bad ones...
ölschlamm schrieb:
Do you think I can manage this?
Regards
michael Judging by what you have done so far, I am quite confident that it will work out well. And if you buy good quality, as @nordanney mentioned, it will succeed. Good luck and please keep us updated.
Regards, Sigi