Hello everyone,
we are planning to install 20mm (3/4 inch) thick oak floorboards in our new build. In various forums, especially recent posts, it is often mentioned that a floating installation is at least possible. However, despite thorough research, I haven’t found much concrete information.
A Dutch wood supplier apparently recommends a floating installation using spacer clips along the walls. However, this is said not to be ideal. Another system uses clips to attach the individual boards but is quite expensive.
I just want to glue the tongue and groove joints and otherwise keep the floor floating. The subfloor would consist of a vapor barrier and 3-5mm (1/8–3/16 inch) impact sound insulation.
Question for you:
Who has done or seen something like this before?
What are your experiences?
What conditions need to be met to make this work?
we are planning to install 20mm (3/4 inch) thick oak floorboards in our new build. In various forums, especially recent posts, it is often mentioned that a floating installation is at least possible. However, despite thorough research, I haven’t found much concrete information.
A Dutch wood supplier apparently recommends a floating installation using spacer clips along the walls. However, this is said not to be ideal. Another system uses clips to attach the individual boards but is quite expensive.
I just want to glue the tongue and groove joints and otherwise keep the floor floating. The subfloor would consist of a vapor barrier and 3-5mm (1/8–3/16 inch) impact sound insulation.
Question for you:
Who has done or seen something like this before?
What are your experiences?
What conditions need to be met to make this work?
ölschlamm schrieb:
Question to the forum: Does anyone know a good recipe for rolled roast?
Answer 1: Why rolled roast? Just make pizza, it’s proven and tastes great.
Answer 2: Try looking in a cookbookWhat you demonstrated with your first question is called thinking ahead. It’s hard to compare that with your example. I would actually be glad if someone asked whether it’s going on underfloor heating, because floating installation is then not recommended at all.
N
nordanney29 Jan 2016 08:18HausAlex schrieb:
Something like what you mentioned in your first question is called thinking ahead. It’s hard to compare that directly with your example. I would actually be glad if someone asked whether it’s going over underfloor heating, because then floating installation would not be recommended at all. The question about the underfloor heating was the very first one asked – unfortunately it remains unanswered.
Hello Sigi,
Thanks for your reply. I mentioned that I had thoroughly researched the question beforehand. It’s clear to me that wooden planks used to be screwed onto a substructure. Nowadays, that is typically only done if a stable screed is missing or if you want to avoid adhesives altogether. However, this method does require significant floor height. It’s also clear that for new builds, gluing is the most common and durable installation method. I think these are generally accepted facts.
Bringing up the humidity information again might be useful for some readers.
I already mentioned the clipping method in my initial post. It’s said to be very expensive. Do you have any info on who offers this? I could inquire.
I’ve never heard of an adhesive mat. Do you possibly have a manufacturer’s name? I’d like to look into that as well.
But actually, I’m not interested in clips or mats—I want to lay the floor floating like with click laminate.
You wrote that in such a case you would only glue the end joints. As I said, I’ve never heard of that before—neither that you should glue the long edges nor that you shouldn’t. Usually, click parquet can be glued on both the end and long edges. Granted, that’s because the three-layer construction is more stable and moves less.
My timber supplier, at least, has no opinion on floating installation (let alone any instructions). He said he knows people who have done it, but he doesn’t have any further details.
And if the type of joint pattern is important for one of my three questions: With solid planks, a random staggered pattern is usually standard due to varying lengths.
Oh, and to the others: No, underfloor heating is not planned. Please excuse my delay in mentioning this. By the way, with 20mm (0.8 inches) oak planks and a thermal resistance value of about 0.2 m²K/W (approx. 1.14 h·ft²·°F/BTU) plus maybe 0.01 for the adhesive, gluing would actually be suboptimal. If using solid wood, you’d usually go for a maximum of 15mm (0.6 inches). But who am I kidding?
Regards,
michael
Thanks for your reply. I mentioned that I had thoroughly researched the question beforehand. It’s clear to me that wooden planks used to be screwed onto a substructure. Nowadays, that is typically only done if a stable screed is missing or if you want to avoid adhesives altogether. However, this method does require significant floor height. It’s also clear that for new builds, gluing is the most common and durable installation method. I think these are generally accepted facts.
Bringing up the humidity information again might be useful for some readers.
I already mentioned the clipping method in my initial post. It’s said to be very expensive. Do you have any info on who offers this? I could inquire.
I’ve never heard of an adhesive mat. Do you possibly have a manufacturer’s name? I’d like to look into that as well.
But actually, I’m not interested in clips or mats—I want to lay the floor floating like with click laminate.
You wrote that in such a case you would only glue the end joints. As I said, I’ve never heard of that before—neither that you should glue the long edges nor that you shouldn’t. Usually, click parquet can be glued on both the end and long edges. Granted, that’s because the three-layer construction is more stable and moves less.
My timber supplier, at least, has no opinion on floating installation (let alone any instructions). He said he knows people who have done it, but he doesn’t have any further details.
And if the type of joint pattern is important for one of my three questions: With solid planks, a random staggered pattern is usually standard due to varying lengths.
Oh, and to the others: No, underfloor heating is not planned. Please excuse my delay in mentioning this. By the way, with 20mm (0.8 inches) oak planks and a thermal resistance value of about 0.2 m²K/W (approx. 1.14 h·ft²·°F/BTU) plus maybe 0.01 for the adhesive, gluing would actually be suboptimal. If using solid wood, you’d usually go for a maximum of 15mm (0.6 inches). But who am I kidding?
Regards,
michael
Good evening Michael,
Regarding the clip fastening method:
Parador offers something like this, so you can check their options.
About the adhesive mat:
Look into Elastilon, I believe the price is around 10 Euros per square meter (roughly 1 square yard), but whether Parador currently offers something similar is unknown to me.
Since, as I mentioned, solid wood flooring only expands and contracts in width, I would recommend gluing the ends for durability.
For the click version, in my opinion, gluing is completely unnecessary, at least in living areas.
One thing is clear: if your floor is supposed to have tongue and groove joints, you’ll have to choose between fixed gluing with an adhesive mat or using clips. Anything else won’t work. And gluing the long sides of the planks will inevitably cause the floor to crack sooner or later.
That would mean you should consider a 3-layer engineered parquet with a click system if you cannot decide on one of the methods mentioned above.
Regarding the clip fastening method:
Parador offers something like this, so you can check their options.
About the adhesive mat:
Look into Elastilon, I believe the price is around 10 Euros per square meter (roughly 1 square yard), but whether Parador currently offers something similar is unknown to me.
Since, as I mentioned, solid wood flooring only expands and contracts in width, I would recommend gluing the ends for durability.
For the click version, in my opinion, gluing is completely unnecessary, at least in living areas.
One thing is clear: if your floor is supposed to have tongue and groove joints, you’ll have to choose between fixed gluing with an adhesive mat or using clips. Anything else won’t work. And gluing the long sides of the planks will inevitably cause the floor to crack sooner or later.
That would mean you should consider a 3-layer engineered parquet with a click system if you cannot decide on one of the methods mentioned above.
Oh, thanks, Sigi – I’ve gained a few more ideas.
I looked into the stapling method for installation – I’m not so sure. We’re talking about 20mm (¾ inch) oak boards that are 14cm (5½ inches) wide. Can stainless steel staples really hold them down? The staple has to be made from thin material; otherwise, the boards won’t lie flat. Also, as I understand it, using staples means you’re tied to Parador with its click system (yes, even for solid wood – but this is only about ease of installation). And then the price is way out of hand. There seem to be other staple systems, but generally, stapling is more for professional installers (from what I can tell).
Elastilon looks simple (in the video) and apparently is, when installing engineered three-layer parquet. But what if the board is not 100% flat? Then it moves or can’t be glued at all. I could hardly find any experiences online. For me, that’s a deal breaker.
With gluing using parquet adhesive, I’m just worried that as a non-professional, I might run into problems if the boards are twisted. Gluing engineered three-layer prefinished parquet wouldn’t be a problem for me, of course.
But I’m hoping for substantial input from "nordanney" and "HausAlex." The intensity of their questions suggests they still have important contributions to make regarding my issues – now that all their questions are settled.
Best regards,
michael
I looked into the stapling method for installation – I’m not so sure. We’re talking about 20mm (¾ inch) oak boards that are 14cm (5½ inches) wide. Can stainless steel staples really hold them down? The staple has to be made from thin material; otherwise, the boards won’t lie flat. Also, as I understand it, using staples means you’re tied to Parador with its click system (yes, even for solid wood – but this is only about ease of installation). And then the price is way out of hand. There seem to be other staple systems, but generally, stapling is more for professional installers (from what I can tell).
Elastilon looks simple (in the video) and apparently is, when installing engineered three-layer parquet. But what if the board is not 100% flat? Then it moves or can’t be glued at all. I could hardly find any experiences online. For me, that’s a deal breaker.
With gluing using parquet adhesive, I’m just worried that as a non-professional, I might run into problems if the boards are twisted. Gluing engineered three-layer prefinished parquet wouldn’t be a problem for me, of course.
But I’m hoping for substantial input from "nordanney" and "HausAlex." The intensity of their questions suggests they still have important contributions to make regarding my issues – now that all their questions are settled.
Best regards,
michael
N
nordanney31 Jan 2016 14:19I can’t say if these are substantial tips.
Unfortunately, I only have experience with engineered wood flooring, although in a wide plank style. When installed as a floating floor with underlay for impact sound insulation (Haro click system), I was not satisfied. While the installation went smoothly and held up very well, the sound when walking on it was noticeably worse compared to glued-down wood flooring.
Now we have glued everything down (Bona R848 adhesive) and are much happier. The adhesive is completely odorless, and the flooring looks like solid wood planks. Haro is still our first choice. Maybe this could be an alternative in terms of installation for you. I’ll take a photo.
Unfortunately, I only have experience with engineered wood flooring, although in a wide plank style. When installed as a floating floor with underlay for impact sound insulation (Haro click system), I was not satisfied. While the installation went smoothly and held up very well, the sound when walking on it was noticeably worse compared to glued-down wood flooring.
Now we have glued everything down (Bona R848 adhesive) and are much happier. The adhesive is completely odorless, and the flooring looks like solid wood planks. Haro is still our first choice. Maybe this could be an alternative in terms of installation for you. I’ll take a photo.
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