ᐅ Installations and drilling in hollow clay bricks

Created on: 28 Sep 2016 11:44
K
Kaspatoo
Kaspatoo28 Sep 2016 11:44
Hello,

I have searched extensively but have not found a clear answer.

In the building and service description offered to us, hollow clay bricks are specified for both exterior and interior masonry.
Exterior walls use 24cm (9.5 inches) hollow clay bricks with a 16cm (6.3 inches) insulation layer and mineral plaster.
Interior walls use either 11.5cm (4.5 inches) or 17.5cm (7 inches) hollow clay bricks, depending on whether they are load-bearing or not.

By hollow clay bricks, I understand those with vertical hollow chambers inside that are not filled with insulation material.

My friend said my planner might be crazy, with the following arguments:
- Interior walls do not need to provide insulation, so hollow clay bricks are pointless.
- Hollow clay bricks make it difficult to cut installation channels and drill anchors for, e.g., wall cabinets.
- Specialized anchors would be required for drilling.
- Calcium silicate bricks are much better suited for interior walls because they are easier to chase and provide better sound insulation.
- The latter points also apply to the exterior walls; installations are difficult and only possible to a limited extent (some kitchen cabinets are to be hung on the exterior wall, and the TV wall is also on the exterior wall for electrical outlets).
- This means that the exterior walls could also be built in calcium silicate brick.
- The slightly lower insulation performance compared to hollow clay bricks is not so important because this can be compensated more easily through insulation.

My question now is: Is this true? Are installations significantly more difficult to carry out compared to, for example, calcium silicate bricks?

Either way, I tend to ask the planner whether we could use 17.5cm (7 inches) bricks instead of 24cm (9.5 inches) ones and compensate with slightly thicker insulation (if I understand correctly, insulation provides more thermal resistance than brick thickness).
Also, we plan to build with facing bricks and mineral wool instead. Here, I would also prefer a 17.5cm (7 inches) brick; otherwise, the wall would become even thicker due to the facing brick.
Ultimately, the goal is still to achieve KfW55 standard (controlled ventilation is planned, whether air-to-water heat pump or gas heating is still undecided).
tomtom7928 Sep 2016 14:06
I recently installed the windows and doors in my garage! It is built with so-called perforated bricks.

You definitely need the right anchors; at first, I used metal ones that expand... but somehow they didn’t hold properly. Then I bought plastic expansion anchors from Tox, and those were rock solid.

At least the interior walls should be made of calcium silicate bricks. From a soundproofing point of view, I would probably use calcium silicate bricks for everything, especially since you will have insulation on top anyway.
K
Knallkörper
28 Sep 2016 14:25
You can already build everything solidly with hollow bricks, but

1. I find 17.5cm (7 inches) hollow bricks a bit thin for load-bearing walls.
2. Sand-lime bricks are, of course, much "better" structurally; fixtures can be made more easily and securely.
3. Sand-lime bricks offer better properties for sound insulation and heat/cold retention.

Why should the outer shell be built from hollow bricks as well? Why not use a facing brick/clinker brick?
Kaspatoo28 Sep 2016 14:45
Knallkörper schrieb:

Why should the outer shell actually be built with hollow bricks? Why not use facing bricks/clinker bricks?
? Nobody mentioned that, right?
Hollow bricks + 16cm (6 inches) insulation + mineral plaster
or in the newly planned version, facing bricks / clinker bricks.
K
Knallkörper
28 Sep 2016 14:58
Oh yes.. sorry, my mistake.

Well, it does make a small difference in the U-value whether you use hollow bricks or calcium silicate bricks for the exterior wall.
Kaspatoo28 Sep 2016 15:07
but just a "small" one?