ᐅ Installation of a Satellite Dish System

Created on: 28 Apr 2016 14:43
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bergi
Hello everyone,

The electrician has prepared everything for the installation of a satellite system. Now I need to remove one roof tile and mount the satellite dish there. The electrician is asking for about €600 (material, installation, and alignment).

On one hand, I’m reluctant to climb on the roof myself, but on the other hand, it bothers me to pay €600 for this. I can get the dish, LNB, multi-switch, and mast for around €200.

Is it complicated if you’ve never done it before? What do you think, should I avoid doing it myself and have it professionally installed?
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bergi
1 May 2016 21:21
Ok, how do I find out which 4 of the 9 cables come from the satellite system? Or does it not matter to the multiswitch?
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Caspar2020
1 May 2016 21:38
The multi-switch is very particular. For the 4 cables coming from the LNB, the order in which the input connectors are plugged in is actually important.

You wanted to hire a professional anyway. They will easily figure it out with the right equipment.
Mycraft3 May 2016 09:22
Well, first you need to find out where everything is supposed to go. What about the installer of the system? Did they leave any documentation at all?

Then you can determine whether a multiswitch is necessary or not.
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Dipol
16 May 2016 08:01
Mycraft schrieb:
Even though it seems simple, there is a lot that can go wrong...

Grounding and equipotential bonding (EPB) are integral parts of the electrical system and, according to NAV § 13, installations on these must be carried out by licensed electrical professionals authorized by the utility company.

Unfortunately, it is also true that not every electrical professional reliably holds a valid VDE selection subscription and is truly competent regarding antenna grounding and equipotential bonding.
Mycraft schrieb:
It already starts with the choice of cable... for example, 16 mm² (0.026 in²) fine-stranded cables are not allowed, and there are many other pitfalls...

Here is one of the reasons why both amateurs and professionals can stumble technically:
DIN EN 60728-11 (VDE 0855-1):2011-06 schrieb:
11.3.2 Grounding conductor
According to EN 50164-1 and EN 50164-2, terminals and wires must be designed for lightning currents.

A 16 mm² (0.026 in²) copper conductor can withstand a lightning electromagnetic pulse (LEMP) of 200 kA when used with certified terminals, but a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Currently, there is no roof rafter clamp certified with a terminal rated at class H = 100 kA according to old or new testing standards, and the most commonly used main grounding bars are designed only for power current applications.
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Sebastian79
16 May 2016 09:03
Good thing I have a wall bracket.
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Dipol
16 May 2016 12:32
Sebastian79 schrieb:
Good thing I have a wall mount

With less than 2 m (6.5 feet) distance below the gutter or roof edge and from 1.5 m (5 feet) wall clearance, facade antennas with at least 16 mm² (0.025 in²) copper, 25 mm² (0.04 in²) aluminum, or 50 mm² (0.08 in²) grounding must be grounded. Only if both the antenna and cables
  • remain within the protection zone,
  • only one residential unit is connected, and
  • the leakage currents of the connected end devices are < 3.5 mA rms,

then, besides lightning-current-capable grounding of the wall mount, since 2011 the equipotential bonding (PE) of the cable shields is left to free discretion.

The fact that rainwater pipes, gutters, etc., which are at risk of lightning strikes and can introduce lightning currents into the protection zone, should not be approached too closely, is considered obvious and is not explicitly mentioned in DIN EN 60728-11 (VDE 0855-1).

On new buildings with external thermal insulation composite systems (ETICS), wall mounts fixed with THERMAX without thermal bridging are statically less resilient than rafter mounts.