ᐅ Individual room temperature control in an older building with standard panel radiators
Created on: 7 Nov 2016 21:22
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Umbauer_1234U
Umbauer_12347 Nov 2016 21:22Good evening,
In an older apartment, I would like to control the radiators in one room individually using an electronic control system. I plan to install one thermostat of the 1098 U-101 type from Busch Jaeger per room in a central location. The controller should then operate an electric valve in the room that replaces the thermostat valve on the radiator.
Why not use conventional thermostat valves? The electronic control is more convenient and, I hope, more energy-efficient due to precise timing of the heating demand.
I have the following questions:
1. Does the concept I have outlined work?
2. This is the main point: what type of valve should I use on the radiators? Are there any considerations besides the two types NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open)?
3. I am also uncertain whether such a control system makes sense for panel radiators. I usually read about this type of control in connection with underfloor heating.
I do not want to use a radio-based control. The system should preferably operate on 230 V.
If anyone has experience with this kind of control, I would appreciate any advice or feedback. I am especially interested in information about possible valve actuators.
Best regards,
Frank
In an older apartment, I would like to control the radiators in one room individually using an electronic control system. I plan to install one thermostat of the 1098 U-101 type from Busch Jaeger per room in a central location. The controller should then operate an electric valve in the room that replaces the thermostat valve on the radiator.
Why not use conventional thermostat valves? The electronic control is more convenient and, I hope, more energy-efficient due to precise timing of the heating demand.
I have the following questions:
1. Does the concept I have outlined work?
2. This is the main point: what type of valve should I use on the radiators? Are there any considerations besides the two types NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open)?
3. I am also uncertain whether such a control system makes sense for panel radiators. I usually read about this type of control in connection with underfloor heating.
I do not want to use a radio-based control. The system should preferably operate on 230 V.
If anyone has experience with this kind of control, I would appreciate any advice or feedback. I am especially interested in information about possible valve actuators.
Best regards,
Frank
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Umbauer_123410 Nov 2016 19:50Good evening,
does anyone have an idea on how to implement the control system, or whether it will work as sketched?
Best regards
Frank
does anyone have an idea on how to implement the control system, or whether it will work as sketched?
Best regards
Frank
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ErikErdgas15 Nov 2016 16:07Hello Frank,
In principle, I think your planned idea is feasible. In existing buildings, wireless solutions are often used simply because the wiring to the thermostat and the control valves is missing. According to the instructions on page 4, the temperature controller requires control valves that are closed when de-energized, also called normally closed (NC). Is there a specific reason for choosing this particular controller? Generally, it should be possible to find significantly more affordable room temperature controllers.
When selecting the control valves, I cannot think of any major performance differences. Regarding dead times, power consumption, etc., I believe most actuators behave similarly.
Best regards, Erik
In principle, I think your planned idea is feasible. In existing buildings, wireless solutions are often used simply because the wiring to the thermostat and the control valves is missing. According to the instructions on page 4, the temperature controller requires control valves that are closed when de-energized, also called normally closed (NC). Is there a specific reason for choosing this particular controller? Generally, it should be possible to find significantly more affordable room temperature controllers.
When selecting the control valves, I cannot think of any major performance differences. Regarding dead times, power consumption, etc., I believe most actuators behave similarly.
Best regards, Erik
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Umbauer_123419 Nov 2016 00:59Hello Erik,
Thank you very much for your reply.
I do not want to use a wireless solution. On one hand, I prefer not to have battery-powered devices; on the other hand, I want a direct connection between the thermostat and the control valve. Since the electrical wiring will be completely renewed anyway, running the necessary cables is not a problem at all.
The controller was only meant as a basic example. Now I know that it works. I will choose the controller to match the switching system.
Thanks again for your support.
Best regards,
Frank
Thank you very much for your reply.
I do not want to use a wireless solution. On one hand, I prefer not to have battery-powered devices; on the other hand, I want a direct connection between the thermostat and the control valve. Since the electrical wiring will be completely renewed anyway, running the necessary cables is not a problem at all.
The controller was only meant as a basic example. Now I know that it works. I will choose the controller to match the switching system.
Thanks again for your support.
Best regards,
Frank
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ErikErdgas22 Nov 2016 15:58Hello Frank,
The wireless solution was primarily suggested by me for existing buildings, where the infrastructure is not in place. In your case, as you mentioned, a wired solution is recommended both in terms of power supply and more stable data transmission.
Best regards, Erik
The wireless solution was primarily suggested by me for existing buildings, where the infrastructure is not in place. In your case, as you mentioned, a wired solution is recommended both in terms of power supply and more stable data transmission.
Best regards, Erik
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