ᐅ Incorrectly adjusted heating system – a valid case for warranty in new construction?
Created on: 16 Nov 2016 16:20
R
rudiherbert
Good day.
I would like to ask the following.
Assuming that the adjustment of a new heating system is not correct (new build).
Does a correction by the heating installer fall under warranty or guarantee?
Who is responsible for clarifying this, the builder or the heating installer?
I suspect that our new heating system is set too “high.” The supply temperature for the underfloor heating is very high, as is the system’s energy consumption.
Of course, consumption is likely higher in a new building (because the structure is not yet completely dry), but a supply temperature of 50°C (122°F) at 2°C (36°F) outdoor temperature is already quite high!
Therefore, I would like the system checked by the heating installer.
To avoid any difficulties, I would like to know if this falls under warranty/guarantee or if it might be just goodwill on the part of the heating installer (or the builder?).
The building was handed over in the summer, when the heating system was not fully operational yet (at least the underfloor heating).
Thank you very much for your help!
I would like to ask the following.
Assuming that the adjustment of a new heating system is not correct (new build).
Does a correction by the heating installer fall under warranty or guarantee?
Who is responsible for clarifying this, the builder or the heating installer?
I suspect that our new heating system is set too “high.” The supply temperature for the underfloor heating is very high, as is the system’s energy consumption.
Of course, consumption is likely higher in a new building (because the structure is not yet completely dry), but a supply temperature of 50°C (122°F) at 2°C (36°F) outdoor temperature is already quite high!
Therefore, I would like the system checked by the heating installer.
To avoid any difficulties, I would like to know if this falls under warranty/guarantee or if it might be just goodwill on the part of the heating installer (or the builder?).
The building was handed over in the summer, when the heating system was not fully operational yet (at least the underfloor heating).
Thank you very much for your help!
Especially since the original poster still assumes their consumption is too high, because you can heat 950 sqm (10,236 sq ft) with 6 tons of pellets.
If I were to confront anyone, it would be the person who planted that idea in their head.
By now, I am curious whether the original poster is (co-)owner of the multi-family house or just renting.
If I were to confront anyone, it would be the person who planted that idea in their head.
By now, I am curious whether the original poster is (co-)owner of the multi-family house or just renting.
B
Bieber081517 Nov 2016 08:261. As far as I know, you can generally only set a target flow temperature or a maximum flow temperature. The actual flow temperature cannot be specified directly; it is controlled based on the outside temperature and the settings on the thermostat.
2. Yes, typically the contractor is responsible not only for installing the heating system but also for ensuring it functions properly, which naturally requires correct adjustment. A window that is not fitted correctly would be considered defective as well and would be corrected accordingly. However, it always depends on what was agreed upon!
3. A flow temperature of 50°C (122°F) seems unusually high to me; which modern heating systems operate at this level? Something doesn’t seem right here.
By the way, the original poster is very sparing with information; at least the type of heating system should have been mentioned (I find it difficult to transfer details from other threads...).
2. Yes, typically the contractor is responsible not only for installing the heating system but also for ensuring it functions properly, which naturally requires correct adjustment. A window that is not fitted correctly would be considered defective as well and would be corrected accordingly. However, it always depends on what was agreed upon!
3. A flow temperature of 50°C (122°F) seems unusually high to me; which modern heating systems operate at this level? Something doesn’t seem right here.
By the way, the original poster is very sparing with information; at least the type of heating system should have been mentioned (I find it difficult to transfer details from other threads...).
@ OP, have the heating engineer explain the background to you.
You shouldn’t arbitrarily lower the supply temperature on a heating system that, by its design, requires a certain operating temperature.
Doing so causes the boiler to frequently switch on and off instead of running continuously.
This reduces the lifespan of the burner and the efficiency of the system.
I estimate the maximum supply temperature on your system is set to 55°C (131°F).
Personally, I wouldn’t lower the maximum supply temperature below 45°C (113°F) on your system.
You shouldn’t arbitrarily lower the supply temperature on a heating system that, by its design, requires a certain operating temperature.
Doing so causes the boiler to frequently switch on and off instead of running continuously.
This reduces the lifespan of the burner and the efficiency of the system.
I estimate the maximum supply temperature on your system is set to 55°C (131°F).
Personally, I wouldn’t lower the maximum supply temperature below 45°C (113°F) on your system.
B
Bieber081517 Nov 2016 10:01Alex85 schrieb:
Fire is not used directly in underfloor heating. Relevant heating systems heat water and then mix it down to the required temperature. Maybe it’s due to my reading skills, but the original post did not mention the type of heating system nor specify the temperature—whether the supply to the underfloor heating or the output of the heat source, both would be possible, although to me the term “supply” usually means the first. And an underfloor heating system at 50°C (122°F) is rather unusual.
I am generally interested in this topic, but it is pointless to speculate based on incomplete information (is a valve stuck?).
In this case, the only real advice is to contact the heating engineer, and that’s the direction the responses have taken. Maybe the original poster will update us on what they decide and what the outcome is.
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