ᐅ IKEA BESTA DIY – What Should I Consider When Using Custom Fronts?
Created on: 18 Feb 2023 08:37
M
MusateoHello everyone, I am currently planning an IKEA Besta project and want to create custom fronts. Since I will be replacing the original fronts, I am particularly interested in what I need to consider when selecting and installing these tailor-made fronts. Specifically, I would like to know:
- Which materials are best suited for DIY fronts to ensure durability and robustness?
- Are there any differences in mounting compared to the original IKEA fronts that I should be aware of?
- How can I avoid fitting issues, especially with hinges and fittings?
- What surface treatments are recommended if I design the fronts myself?
I would appreciate any advice on these points or personal experiences with custom Besta fronts!
- Which materials are best suited for DIY fronts to ensure durability and robustness?
- Are there any differences in mounting compared to the original IKEA fronts that I should be aware of?
- How can I avoid fitting issues, especially with hinges and fittings?
- What surface treatments are recommended if I design the fronts myself?
I would appreciate any advice on these points or personal experiences with custom Besta fronts!
Super interesting topic! A few months ago, I built fronts for my Besta myself, and I can tell you right away: Don’t get discouraged, it’s really fun! 🤩
Regarding your points:
- Material: I used MDF with a painted finish; it’s very sturdy and paints well.
- Installation: The hinges usually don’t need to be replaced, but the drilling has to be very precise – it’s definitely worth measuring carefully here.
- Fit: Especially with drawers, double-check the measurements – small errors add up quickly.
One more tip: If you design the fronts yourself, try to apply a protective layer so the surface lasts longer. Good luck!
Regarding your points:
- Material: I used MDF with a painted finish; it’s very sturdy and paints well.
- Installation: The hinges usually don’t need to be replaced, but the drilling has to be very precise – it’s definitely worth measuring carefully here.
- Fit: Especially with drawers, double-check the measurements – small errors add up quickly.
One more tip: If you design the fronts yourself, try to apply a protective layer so the surface lasts longer. Good luck!
When it comes to custom fronts for IKEA BESTA, I highly recommend a systematic approach. Since you’re asking about materials and assembly, I’ve divided the information into sections:
- Material selection: MDF is very suitable due to its uniform structure. It is easy to work with and coat. Alternatively, plywood panels (also known as multiplex) are an option; they are a bit sturdier but more expensive. It’s important that the material does not warp, so keep an eye on moisture.
- Hinges and drilling: The original IKEA hinges are often 35 mm (1.38 inches) cup hinges. If your fronts are made from different materials, you might need spacers or drilling templates to position the holes precisely. Accurate measurements are essential here; otherwise, the doors won’t fit properly later.
- Assembly: For attaching the fronts, you can use the original mounting plates if the hole positions fit. Alternatively, adapter plates or universal fittings are possible, but you should consider the load capacity.
- Surface treatment: Surface finishing is also an important topic. Painting is popular, preferably with acrylic paint, as it remains flexible and doesn’t crack. For an especially durable finish, clear lacquer layers can be applied as well. Alternatively, you can use films, but these tend to wear out after a few years.
My tip: Make one or two test samples in advance to check the hinges and fit. The precision required is often underestimated. For your planning: What dimensions are you aiming for? This affects the choice of hinges and ultimately the stability of the fronts.
If you like, I can also send you valuable guides on drilling templates and material treatment.
- Material selection: MDF is very suitable due to its uniform structure. It is easy to work with and coat. Alternatively, plywood panels (also known as multiplex) are an option; they are a bit sturdier but more expensive. It’s important that the material does not warp, so keep an eye on moisture.
- Hinges and drilling: The original IKEA hinges are often 35 mm (1.38 inches) cup hinges. If your fronts are made from different materials, you might need spacers or drilling templates to position the holes precisely. Accurate measurements are essential here; otherwise, the doors won’t fit properly later.
- Assembly: For attaching the fronts, you can use the original mounting plates if the hole positions fit. Alternatively, adapter plates or universal fittings are possible, but you should consider the load capacity.
- Surface treatment: Surface finishing is also an important topic. Painting is popular, preferably with acrylic paint, as it remains flexible and doesn’t crack. For an especially durable finish, clear lacquer layers can be applied as well. Alternatively, you can use films, but these tend to wear out after a few years.
My tip: Make one or two test samples in advance to check the hinges and fit. The precision required is often underestimated. For your planning: What dimensions are you aiming for? This affects the choice of hinges and ultimately the stability of the fronts.
If you like, I can also send you valuable guides on drilling templates and material treatment.
Dilen schrieb:
My tip: Make one or two test samples beforehand to check the hinges and fit.That’s definitely a good point, thanks! The dimensions are basically the standard sizes from Besta, so 60x64 cm (24x25 inches) door height, and I’m leaning towards 18 mm (0.7 inch) MDF or multiplex plywood. The main focus is on surface design because I want a matte, durable front.
Regarding cutting and drilling, do you have any recommendations for suitable drilling templates or precise tools? And how do you handle edge finishing? MDF tends to fray quite easily, doesn’t it?
It would be great if you could describe that in a bit more detail.
Additional notes on drilling and edge finishing:
- For drilling in Bestå fronts: IKEA uses the so-called 35-mm system for the hinges, meaning the hinge holes are 35 mm (1.4 inches) in diameter with very precise spacing. For DIY projects, it is best to use an accurate drilling template, which can be purchased from specialty stores, or to work with CNC-machined jigs if available.
- Edge finishing is essential for MDF. Especially untreated edges tend to fray. I recommend smoothing the edges either with a sharp plane or a router, then filling and smoothing them with acrylic or wood filler.
- To prevent moisture absorption, edges should be sealed just like the surfaces. This protects against swelling and ensures the durability of the fronts.
One more tip: If you want a matte surface, pay attention to choosing the right type of paint. Matte acrylic paints offer good durability, but especially proper sanding between coats is important for adhesion and smoothness.
- For drilling in Bestå fronts: IKEA uses the so-called 35-mm system for the hinges, meaning the hinge holes are 35 mm (1.4 inches) in diameter with very precise spacing. For DIY projects, it is best to use an accurate drilling template, which can be purchased from specialty stores, or to work with CNC-machined jigs if available.
- Edge finishing is essential for MDF. Especially untreated edges tend to fray. I recommend smoothing the edges either with a sharp plane or a router, then filling and smoothing them with acrylic or wood filler.
- To prevent moisture absorption, edges should be sealed just like the surfaces. This protects against swelling and ensures the durability of the fronts.
One more tip: If you want a matte surface, pay attention to choosing the right type of paint. Matte acrylic paints offer good durability, but especially proper sanding between coats is important for adhesion and smoothness.
SONLIS schrieb:
- For drilling on Bestå fronts, IKEA uses the so-called 35-mm system for the hinges, meaning the holes for the hinges are 35 mm (1 3/8 inches) in diameter with very precise spacing.That’s correct, the 35-mm hole is standard for IKEA hinge mounting and is often referred to as the “hinge system.” To attach your fronts securely and durably, you should use a drill and ideally a jig or guide to position the hole exactly, as even small deviations can cause the door not to fit properly.
SONLIS schrieb:
- For MDF, edge finishing is essential. Especially untreated edges tend to fray.Exactly, sanding with fine-grit sandpaper and sealing with paint or using edge banding if you prefer a simpler method can help here.
One more tip: if you choose plywood (multiplex), the edges are often already smooth enough that you only need to sand lightly and apply paint.
If you’re unsure about drilling, it might help to practice first on a scrap piece. DIY with IKEA often involves trial and adjustment—that’s part of the process.
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