S
Schnupebaer13 Aug 2009 20:50Hello everyone,
we are considering whether we should buy a single-family house.
We have shortlisted a very nice house for a few days now.
Here are some details:
Detached single-family house, built in 1974, living area 120 sqm (1300 sq ft) plus 35 sqm (375 sq ft) granny flat/apartment (separately accessible, added later in 1995), fully basement + underground garage. Plot size approx. 770 sqm (8300 sq ft). Pool 8 x 4 meters (26 x 13 feet), depth 1.80 meters (6 feet).
The house was lived in by an elderly couple. The husband has passed away, so the wife no longer wants or can live there alone.
According to the inspection report, the following work still needs to be done:
- Repair small cracks in the exterior plaster and repaint
- Pool (not used for 4 years) needs to be refurbished with new liner (or similar)
We would also consider the following work to be useful:
- Complete rewiring
- Remove wallpaper, plaster and paint
- Two completely new bathrooms
- Remove a drywall partition
- Install a main support beam to remove another wall partially
- Integrate the granny flat/apartment into the main house
- Renew or raise the terrace
Now finally, my questions:
- Is this heating system sufficient? Natural gas boiler, Viessmann Atola 24 kW, indirect water heater, Viessmann Rudo Cell coated 160-liter (42-gallon) radiant heaters
- Exterior walls made of aerated concrete blocks, 24 cm (9.5 inches) thick – is this okay? Basement walls are 36.5 cm (14 inches) brick
- Partition walls are made of aerated concrete blocks / bricks as well
- Electrical wiring: copper cables. Good or bad?
- The granny flat has a shed roof with wooden rafters, insulation, and bitumen felt. Is this okay?
- The granny flat was added later. The former exterior wall was not used as a connecting wall; instead, a drywall partition was built with an air gap between the "old" exterior wall and the drywall (clear?). Is this good or bad? We want to make a breakthrough through the former exterior wall to also use the granny flat as part of the house...
Sorry for all the questions. So many things are on our minds.
Thanks for your help.
Best regards,
Caro
we are considering whether we should buy a single-family house.
We have shortlisted a very nice house for a few days now.
Here are some details:
Detached single-family house, built in 1974, living area 120 sqm (1300 sq ft) plus 35 sqm (375 sq ft) granny flat/apartment (separately accessible, added later in 1995), fully basement + underground garage. Plot size approx. 770 sqm (8300 sq ft). Pool 8 x 4 meters (26 x 13 feet), depth 1.80 meters (6 feet).
The house was lived in by an elderly couple. The husband has passed away, so the wife no longer wants or can live there alone.
According to the inspection report, the following work still needs to be done:
- Repair small cracks in the exterior plaster and repaint
- Pool (not used for 4 years) needs to be refurbished with new liner (or similar)
We would also consider the following work to be useful:
- Complete rewiring
- Remove wallpaper, plaster and paint
- Two completely new bathrooms
- Remove a drywall partition
- Install a main support beam to remove another wall partially
- Integrate the granny flat/apartment into the main house
- Renew or raise the terrace
Now finally, my questions:
- Is this heating system sufficient? Natural gas boiler, Viessmann Atola 24 kW, indirect water heater, Viessmann Rudo Cell coated 160-liter (42-gallon) radiant heaters
- Exterior walls made of aerated concrete blocks, 24 cm (9.5 inches) thick – is this okay? Basement walls are 36.5 cm (14 inches) brick
- Partition walls are made of aerated concrete blocks / bricks as well
- Electrical wiring: copper cables. Good or bad?
- The granny flat has a shed roof with wooden rafters, insulation, and bitumen felt. Is this okay?
- The granny flat was added later. The former exterior wall was not used as a connecting wall; instead, a drywall partition was built with an air gap between the "old" exterior wall and the drywall (clear?). Is this good or bad? We want to make a breakthrough through the former exterior wall to also use the granny flat as part of the house...
Sorry for all the questions. So many things are on our minds.
Thanks for your help.
Best regards,
Caro
a) Maintaining a pool is very expensive when it is in use.
b) I find 24 kW for "only" 155 m² (1,670 ft²) almost oversized.
c) 24 cm (9.5 inches) concrete walls without any insulation are not ideal in terms of energy consumption; what does the energy performance certificate say?
d) I’m not sure about copper pipes—how old is the electrical system throughout the house?
e) A flat roof with insulation sounds not bad.
f) I can’t quite visualize the arrangement of the exterior and interior walls at the moment.
g) It should be considered whether a 35 m² (380 ft²) apartment is still rentable today; after all, you have probably already factored the rental income into your financial plan, right?
h) It needs to be clarified where the cracks in the plaster come from—whether it is new textured plaster in a strong color that tends to crack slightly due to sun exposure, or if it is still proper old plaster. In the latter case, it should be checked how the structure behind looks and whether the masonry also shows cracks.
b) I find 24 kW for "only" 155 m² (1,670 ft²) almost oversized.
c) 24 cm (9.5 inches) concrete walls without any insulation are not ideal in terms of energy consumption; what does the energy performance certificate say?
d) I’m not sure about copper pipes—how old is the electrical system throughout the house?
e) A flat roof with insulation sounds not bad.
f) I can’t quite visualize the arrangement of the exterior and interior walls at the moment.
g) It should be considered whether a 35 m² (380 ft²) apartment is still rentable today; after all, you have probably already factored the rental income into your financial plan, right?
h) It needs to be clarified where the cracks in the plaster come from—whether it is new textured plaster in a strong color that tends to crack slightly due to sun exposure, or if it is still proper old plaster. In the latter case, it should be checked how the structure behind looks and whether the masonry also shows cracks.
So, finally my questions:
The most important thing here is what technology this device offers and its year of manufacture.
The 24 kW output is already fine.
Personally, I am not very enthusiastic about these blocks; I see too many disadvantages.
One clear advantage would be that the exterior facade can be refurbished and insulated with polystyrene boards.
That unfortunately does not say much. The important aspect is the insulation of the floor slab and the exterior walls in contact with the ground.
I see no problem there.
Well, I would say it depends on the breaker panel, fuses, main connection, and whether an inspection has been carried out.
Sounds good, but the most important details would be what type of insulation was used and its thickness.
It could be intentional to separate the buildings for soundproofing since they are two separate structures and not physically connected.
I see no problem with that.
Well, this is my two cents and first impression.
Best regards 😉
Schnupebaer schrieb:
- Is the following heating system sufficient? Natural gas boiler, Viessmann Atola 24 kW indirect water heater, Viessmann Rudo Cell coated 160-liter (42-gallon) radiant heater
The most important thing here is what technology this device offers and its year of manufacture.
The 24 kW output is already fine.
Schnupebaer schrieb:
- Exterior walls made of aerated concrete 24 cm (9.5 inches), is that okay?
Personally, I am not very enthusiastic about these blocks; I see too many disadvantages.
- Due to low density, only low sound insulation compared to other solid building materials
- Due to porosity, risk of building damage from moisture absorption; not suitable as exterior walls without additional coating measures
- In case of water ingress, unfavorable building physics performance compared to other solid materials (releases moisture only slowly)
- Low point load capacity, causing issues when anchoring heavy elements
One clear advantage would be that the exterior facade can be refurbished and insulated with polystyrene boards.
Schnupebaer schrieb:
- Basement walls are built with 36.5 cm (14.4 inches) brick
That unfortunately does not say much. The important aspect is the insulation of the floor slab and the exterior walls in contact with the ground.
Schnupebaer schrieb:
- Interior partition walls are also made of aerated concrete / brick
I see no problem there.
Schnupebaer schrieb:
- Electrical wiring: copper conductors. Good or bad?
Well, I would say it depends on the breaker panel, fuses, main connection, and whether an inspection has been carried out.
Schnupebaer schrieb:
- The secondary apartment has a shed roof, wooden rafters, insulation, and bitumen roofing felt. Is that okay?
Sounds good, but the most important details would be what type of insulation was used and its thickness.
Schnupebaer schrieb:
- The secondary apartment was added later. The former exterior wall was not used as a connecting wall; instead, a drywall partition (with an air gap between the "old" exterior wall and the drywall) was built. (Make sense?) Is that good or bad?
It could be intentional to separate the buildings for soundproofing since they are two separate structures and not physically connected.
Schnupebaer schrieb:
We want to break through the former exterior wall to also use the secondary apartment...
I see no problem with that.
Well, this is my two cents and first impression.
Best regards 😉
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