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Biker10025 Apr 2015 15:21Hello everyone,
I have the following problem: In our previously owned single-family house, we had to remove the existing solid wood parquet during renovation because some parts were hollow underneath. (Really tough work). In doing so, we discovered the following floor structure (from bottom to top):
solid concrete basement ceiling
dry screed panels 30mm (1.2 inches) thick (including styrofoam)
chipboard 18mm (0.7 inches)
solid wood parquet 20mm (0.8 inches)
I have now removed the parquet and the chipboard. This leaves a step of 38mm (1.5 inches) compared to the areas where the floor remains. For the new floor, we plan to use laminate flooring with acoustic underlay and tiles in the kitchen. The total buildup height for this will be about 10–13mm (0.4–0.5 inches). This means I need to compensate for the missing 25–28mm (1.0–1.1 inches).
I know there are self-leveling compounds for this, but for an area of about 70 square meters, I would need around 2.5 tons of the material. That is a) very expensive and b) a lot of effort.
I am currently considering the following solutions:
a) Lay 22mm or 25mm (0.9 or 1.0 inches) OSB subfloor panels floating on top of the dry screed. Use edge insulation strips around the perimeter, then use leveling compound on the OSB to compensate for the missing height.
b) Completely cover the existing dry screed panels with another layer of dry screed panels.
c) In the hallway, slope the floor covering down to the lower level and lay the laminate directly on the existing dry screed. This would create a slope in the hallway – not ideal, but a rare occurrence.
Are there any other suggestions?
Is there any idea here I should probably avoid?
Can I tile directly on OSB panels?
How does the floating installation of OSB panels affect impact sound insulation?
Can OSB panels be installed floating at all, or should they be screwed through the dry screed into the concrete below?
Best regards,
Andreas
I have the following problem: In our previously owned single-family house, we had to remove the existing solid wood parquet during renovation because some parts were hollow underneath. (Really tough work). In doing so, we discovered the following floor structure (from bottom to top):
solid concrete basement ceiling
dry screed panels 30mm (1.2 inches) thick (including styrofoam)
chipboard 18mm (0.7 inches)
solid wood parquet 20mm (0.8 inches)
I have now removed the parquet and the chipboard. This leaves a step of 38mm (1.5 inches) compared to the areas where the floor remains. For the new floor, we plan to use laminate flooring with acoustic underlay and tiles in the kitchen. The total buildup height for this will be about 10–13mm (0.4–0.5 inches). This means I need to compensate for the missing 25–28mm (1.0–1.1 inches).
I know there are self-leveling compounds for this, but for an area of about 70 square meters, I would need around 2.5 tons of the material. That is a) very expensive and b) a lot of effort.
I am currently considering the following solutions:
a) Lay 22mm or 25mm (0.9 or 1.0 inches) OSB subfloor panels floating on top of the dry screed. Use edge insulation strips around the perimeter, then use leveling compound on the OSB to compensate for the missing height.
b) Completely cover the existing dry screed panels with another layer of dry screed panels.
c) In the hallway, slope the floor covering down to the lower level and lay the laminate directly on the existing dry screed. This would create a slope in the hallway – not ideal, but a rare occurrence.
Are there any other suggestions?
Is there any idea here I should probably avoid?
Can I tile directly on OSB panels?
How does the floating installation of OSB panels affect impact sound insulation?
Can OSB panels be installed floating at all, or should they be screwed through the dry screed into the concrete below?
Best regards,
Andreas
Is the floor actually perfectly level? If there were any hollow spots underneath before, it doesn’t sound like it is. There is also a lightweight concrete (Thermozell), but the layer thickness would need to be at least 3 cm (1.2 inches). I would tend to remove the dry screed panels as well, lay EPS-DEO insulation boards, then 20 mm (0.8 inches) of dry screed on top, and finally the floor covering. Otherwise, the construction is not sufficient for a lightweight and practical solution (why use two layers of screed panels...?), one that is level and durable. We recently removed 65 sqm (700 sq ft) of screed, which is quite a lot of work, but you only do it once, and then it can be done properly.
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