ᐅ How to Design an Efficient Heating System for a New Building?

Created on: 22 Jun 2024 13:13
T
Tzubaka
Hello homebuilding friends,

We are currently in the detailed planning phase of our house and need some quick support. The final goal is to build a KFW40 energy standard house.
I have tried to research extensively online but still haven't figured it out.

How exactly should a heating system be designed to be as efficient as possible? Like many new builds, we are planning a heat pump with underfloor heating. I have read that room thermostats should be omitted so the system can self-regulate. I have also read that a buffer tank is a bad idea.

I have read that the heat pump should operate at low temperatures to remain efficient. Additionally, I have read that a separate heat pump should be used for domestic hot water production. However, I have also come across many conflicting opinions.

Our heating technician wants to install a buffer tank with an electric heating element.
Right now, we are quite confused.

Could you help clear up the fog for me? What should an optimally designed heating system look like?
Thanks and best regards from a beginner builder
Tolentino29 Jun 2024 11:51
Not inherently, but depending on the design, it can be possible. Usually, supply and exhaust air are not combined in the same room. Instead, dedicated supply and exhaust rooms as well as pressure-equalizing zones are planned. This would already allow for some degree of air mixing.
However, yes, the idea itself is impractical.
If it feels counterproductive that a large and expensive mechanical system is unused for half the year, you could opt entirely for air-to-air heat pumps (also known as air conditioning units), which can provide heating in winter as well. With proper insulation, this works efficiently and reliably.
Comfort is lower in winter but higher in summer compared to underfloor heating.
H
Hausbauer23
29 Jun 2024 13:49
I thought that with an enthalpy exchanger, some moisture or dryness would actually be retained between the supply and exhaust air?
OWLer30 Jun 2024 10:55
Hausbauer23 schrieb:

What happens when you cool with underfloor heating and then use an air conditioner somewhere in the house for dehumidification? Does the dehumidified air get distributed throughout the house via the mechanical ventilation system, or does the air end up going outside again without dehumidifying the other rooms?

Yes.
nordanney schrieb:

That should work, but it’s not very sensible. You might as well skip cooling with the underfloor system and just cool directly with the air conditioner.

Not nonsensical because it does work — for example, in my case. I just don’t have an air conditioner (yet).
Hausbauer23 schrieb:

I thought that with an enthalpy exchanger, some moisture or dryness would actually be retained between supply and exhaust air?

That’s what I’ve observed in my system.

Despite all the cooling and dehumidifying I do, we will probably install an air conditioner next year. This summer we often had uncomfortably high humidity levels that my dehumidifier struggled to handle.
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nordanney
30 Jun 2024 11:32
OWLer schrieb:

Not stupid, because it works – for example, in my case. I simply (still) don’t have air conditioning.

Did you read my post? It’s stupid to install underfloor heating with cooling first, and then run an air conditioner additionally just to reduce humidity. That it works is completely clear.
OWLer schrieb:

Despite all the cooling and dehumidifying on my part, we will probably install air conditioning next year. This summer we already had uncomfortable high humidity levels so often that my dehumidifier had to struggle against it.

That’s exactly what I meant. Only air conditioning is the more comfortable solution.
S
stjoob_at
1 Jul 2024 10:30
Daniel-Sp schrieb:

Is there still room for changes?
Instead of a combination tank, I would prefer to use two separate tanks. Combination tanks often cause problems. The separation between domestic hot water and heating water with their different temperature levels does not work as well as manufacturers claim. Also, they are often integrated as hydraulic separators, which creates additional issues.

A combination buffer tank plus ERR is probably the worst-case scenario for efficiency in new builds with heat pumps. In 99% of cases, even two separate tanks are not necessary. If the installer insists, he should be allowed to install only a small buffer tank in series on the return line. Everything else is ineffective.
For domestic hot water production: either a conventional storage tank or alternatively a buffer tank plus a fresh water station (for hot water only, not a combination tank). I would also always try to avoid a circulation line, as it significantly reduces efficiency.