ᐅ How do you secure Ikea PAX wardrobes to walls in older buildings?

Hello everyone,

I am planning to install an Ikea PAX wardrobe in my apartment, which is in an older building with plastered, somewhat fragile walls. Since I know that PAX wardrobes should always be secured to the wall to prevent tipping, my question is: What is the best way to attach Ikea PAX wardrobes to walls in older buildings?

The walls are not load-bearing concrete but rather old brick with plaster, sometimes a bit crumbly. When fixing the wardrobe, I want to ensure sufficient stability and safety without causing excessive damage to the wall. Which anchors, screws, and possibly other accessories are suitable for this?

Are there any special techniques or material recommendations that are particularly useful for older walls? And are there any specific considerations when supporting or securing the wardrobe concerning the weight and load of fully loaded PAX wardrobe units?

I look forward to your experiences and recommendations!

bau42 schrieb:
What is the best way to secure Ikea PAX wardrobes to walls in older buildings?

Hi! Great topic—I had the same project last year and can only say: safety comes first! 😊 For walls in older buildings, you should definitely use heavy-duty anchors or metal anchors specifically designed for porous walls. It’s especially important to first drill through the plaster layer and then into the brick, as that’s the only way to get a really secure hold.

By the way, I used special cavity anchors for my PAX wardrobes because the wall was really crumbly. Also, don’t forget to choose screws that are long enough; otherwise, the whole thing won’t hold properly.

It’s definitely a challenge, but with the right anchors and a bit of patience, it works great!

So: don’t lose courage! You can do it! 🚀

bau42 schrieb:
Which anchors, screws, and possibly other tools are suitable for this?

I’m happy to provide a brief guide that usually works well with older walls:

- First, you need to check the wall type: As you mentioned, older walls often consist of bricks, loose plaster layers, and cavities.
- For brick walls, I recommend metal expansion anchors or metal anchors, as they hold better in masonry than simple plastic anchors.
- It is important that the anchor is at least 8 mm (5/16 inches) in diameter and the screw matches this, typically around 6 mm (1/4 inch) thick.
- Drill size: When in doubt, use a drill bit 1–2 mm (1/16–1/8 inch) larger than the anchor diameter to ensure the anchor fits properly.
- If the plaster is crumbling, tap off or remove any loose areas first.
- Before installation, test the holding strength by gently pulling on the anchor after it is set.

I also recommend placing the mounting points of the PAX retrofit kit carefully on load-bearing parts of the wall, meaning vertical bricks and not on mortar joints.

One more thing: PAX cabinets usually have mounting holes at the top of the back panel, so the attachment should be placed there—not somewhere on the sides.

In summary: good anchors, precise positioning, solid masonry—then your PAX should hang securely!

DUKUSU schrieb:
For old walls, you should definitely use heavy-duty anchors or metal anchors designed specifically for porous walls.

That is basically true; however, you should not just use heavy-duty anchors blindly without checking the actual condition of the wall. Older buildings have very different masonry qualities, and in very crumbly walls, heavy-duty anchors can even cause more damage if they do not hold properly.

The plaster can also be problematic. If it is loose, simply putting the anchor into the hole does not help. You should always check whether partial wall repair is necessary or if the hole could be filled with a repair mortar.

One point that is often overlooked in my opinion: the load of the cabinet does not only distribute at the anchor material itself but also depends on the anchoring depth. Drilling to a suitable depth in load-bearing brick can carry significantly higher loads than anchoring only in the plaster.

It should also be considered that Ikea PAX wardrobes often weigh around 60-80 kg (130-175 lbs) when fully loaded. Therefore, I recommend installing at least two to three separate mounting points per cabinet module, if possible on different wall sections.

This topic deserves careful preliminary investigation. Drilling “on a whim” can cause more harm than good in the long run.

MATHIASDO schrieb:
Plaster can also be problematic at times. If it’s loose, simply inserting the wall plug into the hole won’t help.

Absolutely, I’ve experienced that too! In my older house, the plaster sometimes behaves unpredictably… 🙈 That’s why I always add a preventive step: I first remove any loose plaster pieces and then apply a layer of primer or even repair mortar to create a solid base for the wall plug. This way, the plug sits on firm material instead of crumbling plaster.

Here’s a little insider tip: some people recommend Tox-Molykot plugs because they offer a great combination of spring action and load-bearing capacity. 😎

You can also try using PAX wardrobe hangers with a thin wooden backing to better distribute the pressure on the wall.

It’s important to drill before screwing and to clean out the dust thoroughly so the wall plug grips properly — instead of just floating in the hole. This helps avoid unpleasant surprises!

Good luck, it will definitely turn out great 👍