ᐅ How do I secure Ikea Pax wardrobes to floors with underfloor heating?

Hello everyone,

I am currently planning to secure my Ikea Pax wardrobe to a floor with underfloor heating. I have read that you need to be very careful with such floors to avoid damaging the heating pipes while ensuring a stable and secure installation. My floor covering is laminate, and underneath there is an electric underfloor heating system with a low installation height.

My question is: How can I properly fix Ikea Pax wardrobes on floors with underfloor heating so that the heating elements are not damaged, but the wardrobe remains stable over time? I am especially interested in whether any special wall plugs, spacers, or alternative mounting methods are recommended to distribute pressure on the floor and possibly compensate for movements caused by temperature changes.

Perhaps someone also has experience mounting directly onto laminate over underfloor heating or can offer advice on wall fixing and possibly using baseboards instead of direct floor mounting.

Thanks in advance!

Hello dogla32,

There are several important aspects to consider regarding this topic:

- Underfloor heating typically consists of electric heating mats or water pipes combined with a thin screed or a special carrier board. Directly inserting anchors into this can be dangerous, as the heating pipes or films could be damaged.

- Ikea Pax wardrobes are relatively heavy, especially when fully loaded. Therefore, the wall mounting using the supplied brackets is particularly important. The wall attachment bears most of the load and ensures stability.

- On the floor, it is usually recommended to place the wardrobe directly on the surface without screwing it down. To avoid pressure marks, you can use a thin impact sound insulation layer or a reinforced base that distributes the load better.

- Alternatively, if the floor is very slippery, non-slip felt or plastic pads can help.

- You should definitely secure the wardrobe to the wall, especially if there are children in the household.

- Please do not drill into the screed without proper knowledge!

If you provide more details about the exact floor structure, more targeted advice can be given. Otherwise, the general rule is: wall mounting with no additional fasteners on the floor panel, but use protective pads and load distribution.

I hope this gives you a helpful first overview!

Hello dogla32,

I would like to go deeper into the technical details here, as the topic is more complex than it appears at first glance. You mentioned that your floor consists of laminate over an electric underfloor heating system with a thin installation height. The most important point upfront: If it is a low-temperature underfloor heating system (e.g., water-based or electric heating mats with minimal buildup), the screed or the layers above can hardly withstand point loads on the floor.

Here is my recommended approach:

- First, you should know the exact structure of your floor: which layers, their thickness, and how the heating pipes or mats are installed. Often, there are installation plans from the contractor that help identify critical areas.

- Absolutely avoid drilling directly into the floor if you do not have precise information about the heating loops, as this can cause damage.

- Ikea Pax cabinets typically have relatively thin carcass material. While the weight distributes better on large cabinets, the base rails or supporting structures are narrow.

- My recommendation is to use a so-called load distribution plate made of a suitable material. This could be an MDF or OSB panel that is thin enough not to reduce the heating effect but wide enough to spread the cabinet’s load over a larger area. You place this plate between the laminate and the cabinet. Make sure not to create additional build-up height that could negatively affect doors or other elements.

- Position the plate so that it rests completely on the floor. It might also be useful to use underlay mats for floor coverings that are slip-resistant and provide some cushioning.

- Wall mounting is crucial for stability and safety—screw the cabinet sides into the wall, ideally into studs or load-bearing points, rather than just drywall.

- Be careful with temperature differences: laminate can expand slightly. Depending on how it is installed and the heat output, the cabinet may move slightly. For this reason, rigid floor fixings are not ideal.

A question for you: Do you have an installation plan for the underfloor heating, or can you determine the position of the heating pipes with reasonable accuracy? Also, the exact cabinet type (dimensions, base construction) would be helpful.

In summary: Do not fasten anything to the floor without exact knowledge of the floor/heating system; rather use load distribution with a suitable base and always secure and stabilize with wall mounting.

I hope this helps you. If you provide more details, I can also assist you with planning the substructure.

gregto schrieb:
Ikea Pax wardrobes are relatively heavy, especially when fully loaded. Therefore, the wall attachment using the included angle brackets is particularly important.

I completely agree, but I consider it risky to rely solely on wall mounting, especially if the wardrobe is subjected to above-average loads. For floors with underfloor heating, in addition to the risk of damaging the screed, I would also consider the long-term stability of the furniture.

Dilen schrieb:
My recommendation is a so-called load distribution using an appropriate base plate. This could be, for example, an MDF or OSB panel that is thin enough not to reduce heating efficiency but wide enough to distribute the wardrobe’s load over a larger surface area.

A good idea. However, one should keep in mind how much the thermal conductivity of the added layer is affected. There are studies showing that every additional layer between the heating element and room air reduces efficiency.

A possible compromise is indeed a special, particularly thin and thermally conductive underlay placed on the laminate floor, on which the wardrobe then stands. Technically validated materials could provide the solution here.

The wardrobe feet should also be equipped with non-slip but flexible pads to compensate for slight movements caused by temperature fluctuations and to minimize the risk of misalignment.

Finally, a note: Some recommend securing wardrobes by gluing them directly to the floor. In my view, this contradicts all safety and building regulations, especially for floors with underfloor heating.

I welcome further explanations if anyone can provide solid evidence regarding alternative fastening methods.