Hello everyone,
I noticed that some edges of my IKEA Malm desk have torn veneer. The edges are not only visually damaged but in some places the veneer can even be lifted slightly with a fingernail. Now I’m looking for a simple yet durable repair method to fix these torn veneer or edge surfaces without having to replace the entire edge.
Does anyone have experience repairing such Malm edges? What materials or tools are needed? Which steps are most effective to achieve a clean and long-lasting result? I imagine that wood glue or special edge repair kits might be used, but I’m open to all suggestions.
Thanks in advance!
I noticed that some edges of my IKEA Malm desk have torn veneer. The edges are not only visually damaged but in some places the veneer can even be lifted slightly with a fingernail. Now I’m looking for a simple yet durable repair method to fix these torn veneer or edge surfaces without having to replace the entire edge.
Does anyone have experience repairing such Malm edges? What materials or tools are needed? Which steps are most effective to achieve a clean and long-lasting result? I imagine that wood glue or special edge repair kits might be used, but I’m open to all suggestions.
Thanks in advance!
Hello Konuix,
your problem description is clear and understandable. For torn MALM edges, I recommend the following practical approach:
1. Clean the damaged area from dust and loose veneer pieces, ideally using a fine brush or a slightly damp cloth.
2. Then carefully apply a thin, liquid wood glue (preferably photovoltaic panel glue) under the detached veneer with a small brush or toothpick.
3. Press the edge down firmly with a flat tool and immediately wipe off any excess glue.
4. After curing (at least 24 hours), carefully smooth the area with very fine sandpaper (grit 320-400) and, if necessary, touch up with matching paint or edge lacquer.
Important: Avoid overly watery glue to prevent the veneer from swelling.
This method is very effective and usually provides a durable result when done carefully.
your problem description is clear and understandable. For torn MALM edges, I recommend the following practical approach:
1. Clean the damaged area from dust and loose veneer pieces, ideally using a fine brush or a slightly damp cloth.
2. Then carefully apply a thin, liquid wood glue (preferably photovoltaic panel glue) under the detached veneer with a small brush or toothpick.
3. Press the edge down firmly with a flat tool and immediately wipe off any excess glue.
4. After curing (at least 24 hours), carefully smooth the area with very fine sandpaper (grit 320-400) and, if necessary, touch up with matching paint or edge lacquer.
Important: Avoid overly watery glue to prevent the veneer from swelling.
This method is very effective and usually provides a durable result when done carefully.
Hello Konuix,
I would like to add to Dopoki’s explanation with a detailed step-by-step guide that highlights common mistakes:
1. Preparation: First, carefully lift the torn or lifting veneer so you can apply glue underneath. Do not pull the cracks further apart, as this will create gaps.
2. Applying wood glue: It is best to use a special wood glue for veneers that remains transparent after drying. Use a thin brush to apply the glue as precisely as possible under the veneer.
3. Fixing: To ensure a secure hold, I recommend using clamps or, in simpler cases, pressing down with a ruler and light weights. Applying pressure is essential for a clean bonding.
4. Removing excess glue: If there is glue on the surface, remove it immediately with a slightly damp cloth, otherwise it will discolor when dry and look unattractive.
5. Once the glue is dry, lightly sand in the direction of the grain with very fine sandpaper (at least grit 320) and, if necessary, finish the repaired area with a matching clear coat or edge lacquer to visually match the original MALM surface.
Typical mistakes include using too much glue and incorrect pressing times, which can damage the surface or fail to provide a proper hold.
This way, the veneer can usually be repaired invisibly.
I would like to add to Dopoki’s explanation with a detailed step-by-step guide that highlights common mistakes:
1. Preparation: First, carefully lift the torn or lifting veneer so you can apply glue underneath. Do not pull the cracks further apart, as this will create gaps.
2. Applying wood glue: It is best to use a special wood glue for veneers that remains transparent after drying. Use a thin brush to apply the glue as precisely as possible under the veneer.
3. Fixing: To ensure a secure hold, I recommend using clamps or, in simpler cases, pressing down with a ruler and light weights. Applying pressure is essential for a clean bonding.
4. Removing excess glue: If there is glue on the surface, remove it immediately with a slightly damp cloth, otherwise it will discolor when dry and look unattractive.
5. Once the glue is dry, lightly sand in the direction of the grain with very fine sandpaper (at least grit 320) and, if necessary, finish the repaired area with a matching clear coat or edge lacquer to visually match the original MALM surface.
Typical mistakes include using too much glue and incorrect pressing times, which can damage the surface or fail to provide a proper hold.
This way, the veneer can usually be repaired invisibly.
Dopoki schrieb:
no glue that’s too wateryThat’s exactly the point! Out of curiosity, I once used something like Pattex or super glue somewhere, but the result was terrible. 🙁
My recommendation: definitely use wood glue and be a bit more patient – let the glue dry thoroughly! After that, your MALM edge will look as good as new.
One more tip: if you can’t lift the torn veneer well anymore, IKEA also offers replacement edges or edge banding that you can carefully glue on. This way, you can also improve the appearance if the damage is too large or severe.
Good luck! And don’t worry – it’s definitely doable! 🙂
LOGEMIN schrieb:
Clamping is essential for a clean bondExactly, this is often underestimated. I remember my first attempt when I just held the edge with my fingers – it came loose again after a few days.
If you don’t have any special tools at home, Konuix, try using a stack of books or a heavy board that you secure with a clamp.
If the damaged veneer is already lifting significantly or partially missing, you shouldn’t just glue over it. In this case, it can help to use a thin edge banding strip from the hardware store that is either clear or matches the wood color to fix it.
I’m not a professional either, but with a bit of patience, it’s doable! 🙂
Similar topics