ᐅ How do I securely mount Ikea Metod wall cabinets on older building walls?

Hello everyone,

I am facing the challenge of installing Ikea Metod wall cabinets in an older building. The walls are partly solid masonry with plaster, and partly covered with older, less stable layers. I am particularly interested in proven methods and materials to securely and permanently fix the cabinets without causing unnecessary damage to the walls.

What is the best approach, and which types of anchors or other fasteners do you recommend? Are there any special considerations when working with walls in older buildings? I would appreciate tips and experiences, especially if anyone has dealt with similar cases involving Ikea Metod cabinets. Thanks in advance!

I would definitely recommend using heavy-duty anchors or metal anchors if the plaster is thick enough. First, check the wall’s solidity with a drill. The cabinets need to be fixed to the solid wall, not just the plaster. In older buildings, impact anchors or expansion bolts are often effective as well. Important: drywall anchors or hollow wall anchors are not an option here.

Hello kirate,

I’m familiar with your issue, as old building walls can indeed be tricky. Often, the plaster alone is not sufficient to support weight, especially with Ikea Metod wall cabinets, which can be quite heavy.

I recommend considering the following points:

- First, carefully inspect the wall to determine if it contains load-bearing bricks or cavities.
- If the wall is load-bearing, use anchors such as expansion anchors or chemical anchors.
- For older walls, longer anchors are important to ensure a secure hold in the solid masonry.
- Make sure to use screws that are suitable for the Ikea cabinet suspension system.
- If the wall surface is uneven, you may need to use spacers to mount the cabinet level.

Sometimes, attaching a sturdy wooden subframe to the wall helps; you can then hang the cabinets from this. It distributes the load better and allows for adjustments.

If you have any further questions, I’m happy to help!

Hello everyone,

I completely understand how stressful this can be, especially when you’re worried about damage or an uneven final result. I once tried to install some kitchen cabinets without the proper anchors – a big mistake! The good news is: with the right preparation, you can definitely manage it.

Sometimes it’s okay to have a professional take a quick look if you’re unsure. But often, a good wall plug or metal anchor, as already mentioned here, is all you need. Once the cabinets are hung, you’ll be very proud, I promise!

Keep at it, I’m looking forward to seeing how it goes.

LAGUDO schrieb:
I would definitely recommend using heavy-duty anchors or metal anchors if the plaster layer is thick enough.

Thanks, that sounds very practical. Could you specify the approximate length and diameter the anchors should have for typical Metod cabinets?

Ramon4 schrieb:
If the wall is uneven, you might need to use spacers to ensure the cabinet is mounted level.

That’s a very good point. Is a simple piece of wood sufficient here, or is plastic better? The screws for the Metod cabinets only engage at certain points—how do you handle this cleanly?

I’m also a bit unsure whether to mount the cabinets directly to the wall or to a wooden subframe—has anyone done this on older walls and can share their experience?

I want to avoid causing cracks in the plaster or weakening the wall too much.

Hi kirate,

I had a similar situation in my old apartment. For older solid walls, I recommend:

- Use longer heavy-duty wall anchors (at least 8 mm diameter and 60–80 mm length) to ensure a secure hold in the masonry.
- For spacers, wooden battens are definitely a good choice; they are sturdy and relatively easy to adjust.
- Important: firmly fix the wooden batten to the wall before installing the cabinets. This helps distribute the weight more evenly.
- Make sure to securely and precisely align the cabinet mounting brackets, otherwise the cabinets may hang crooked.
- If the plaster seems crumbly, check first with a long drill bit to confirm you are drilling into solid masonry.

A substructure is often the safest solution for older walls, especially if the surface is not stable everywhere. It also allows you to compensate for minor unevenness.

I hope this helps!