Hello everyone, I am planning to assemble some Malm furniture from IKEA in my apartment and have a question about the best way to securely attach it to different wall types.
My apartment has sections with standard drywall, but also some older concrete walls and areas with brickwork. Since I want to secure the furniture with anti-tip brackets, it’s important for me to use the appropriate anchors and screws that suit each type of wall to ensure stability.
I’ve read that special hollow wall anchors are needed for drywall, and different methods apply for concrete or brick, but I’m unsure about the different types of anchors and sometimes the drilling techniques.
Can anyone share practical advice on which types of anchors you use for Malm furniture on drywall, concrete, and brick walls? Are there general recommendations I should keep in mind, especially when installing the anti-tip safety brackets? Thanks in advance for your help!
My apartment has sections with standard drywall, but also some older concrete walls and areas with brickwork. Since I want to secure the furniture with anti-tip brackets, it’s important for me to use the appropriate anchors and screws that suit each type of wall to ensure stability.
I’ve read that special hollow wall anchors are needed for drywall, and different methods apply for concrete or brick, but I’m unsure about the different types of anchors and sometimes the drilling techniques.
Can anyone share practical advice on which types of anchors you use for Malm furniture on drywall, concrete, and brick walls? Are there general recommendations I should keep in mind, especially when installing the anti-tip safety brackets? Thanks in advance for your help!
Hello Swenjane,
a very important question, as safety with Malm furniture, especially due to the risk of tipping, should never be underestimated.
For drywall partitions, I definitely recommend using hollow wall anchors, also called toggle anchors, which spread out behind the board. They hold much better than simple expansion anchors. For rather lightweight furniture like Malm, metal anchors for drywall can also be sufficient, preferably those with metal clips or metal wings for better grip.
For concrete and brick walls, you should use heavy-duty expansion anchors or—when using hammer-drilled holes—appropriate hammer anchors. For concrete, the classic nylon expansion anchor is a good choice, but metal hammer anchors can also be useful depending on the load.
An important tip: drill the hole with the correct drill bit (masonry bit for brick/concrete, regular drill bit for drywall) and ensure the anchor length matches your screw and the wall thickness.
Even though the anti-tip device is often attached with only two screws, you should align them carefully and tighten the screw heads as far back as possible to ensure they hold securely and don’t slip out.
In summary:
- Drywall: metal hollow wall anchors with toggle function
- Concrete/brick: nylon expansion anchors or metal hammer anchors
- Always choose the appropriate drill bit and anchor length
This is the most common and safest option for Malm furniture with anti-tip protection. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
a very important question, as safety with Malm furniture, especially due to the risk of tipping, should never be underestimated.
For drywall partitions, I definitely recommend using hollow wall anchors, also called toggle anchors, which spread out behind the board. They hold much better than simple expansion anchors. For rather lightweight furniture like Malm, metal anchors for drywall can also be sufficient, preferably those with metal clips or metal wings for better grip.
For concrete and brick walls, you should use heavy-duty expansion anchors or—when using hammer-drilled holes—appropriate hammer anchors. For concrete, the classic nylon expansion anchor is a good choice, but metal hammer anchors can also be useful depending on the load.
An important tip: drill the hole with the correct drill bit (masonry bit for brick/concrete, regular drill bit for drywall) and ensure the anchor length matches your screw and the wall thickness.
Even though the anti-tip device is often attached with only two screws, you should align them carefully and tighten the screw heads as far back as possible to ensure they hold securely and don’t slip out.
In summary:
- Drywall: metal hollow wall anchors with toggle function
- Concrete/brick: nylon expansion anchors or metal hammer anchors
- Always choose the appropriate drill bit and anchor length
This is the most common and safest option for Malm furniture with anti-tip protection. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
BOSULE schrieb:
a very important question, since the safety of Malm furniture, especially due to the tipping hazard, must not be underestimated.I completely agree. I would like to add that it is not only important to pay attention to the type of wall plug but also to the correct drill hole size and the position of the fastening.
For drywall (plasterboard), it is advisable, if possible, to anchor the plug in a load-bearing part of the metal stud or alternatively to use specialized cavity anchors that have a strong grip. If this is not possible, I recommend using larger, well-expanding cavity anchors, since simple plastic plugs can loosen under load.
Another point when dealing with brick walls is to check whether the wall is hollow or solid; for hollow bricks, specialized cavity anchors are again advisable.
Also important: follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the Malm furniture regarding the mounting distances of the anti-tip fittings to ensure the furniture is securely fixed.
As a general rule: it is better to take a bit more time for precise preparation and drilling than to compromise safety later. 🙂
Swenjane schrieb:
I’ve read that special cavity anchors are needed for drywall, and that you have to approach concrete or brick differently.That is basically correct, but I would also recommend checking the exact condition of the wall. Simply saying “concrete,” “drywall,” or “brick” is not always enough. For example, older concrete walls can be more porous, and a regular expansion anchor may break easily.
Likewise, it’s important to know whether the drywall is only about 12.5 mm (0.5 inches) thick, or if there is a load-bearing structure of wood or metal studs behind it, in order to choose the right fixings. Cavity anchors alone are not always sufficient, especially if heavy furniture will be mounted.
BOSULE schrieb:
An important tip: Drill the hole with the correct drill bit and make sure the anchor length matches both your screw and the wall thickness.Exactly. People often underestimate how important proper drilling is. A hole that is too large means the anchor won’t expand properly, while a hole that is too small can damage the anchor.
I also recommend temporarily positioning the furniture pieces against the wall and only drilling the anchor holes once you have precisely marked the fixing points. This is especially important for furniture like Malm with tilt safety features; otherwise, the whole installation won’t be reliable.
If you need advice for very old or unusual walls, it’s best to consult a professional to ensure the load-bearing capacity is secure.
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