ᐅ How can I securely fasten Ikea Pax furniture without damaging the wall?

Hello everyone, I am planning to install my Ikea Pax wardrobes in the apartment and hope someone here can help me. My main question is: How can I securely fix my Ikea Pax furniture to the wall without causing damage to the wall? Specifically, I am interested in which fastening methods and materials are suitable to stabilize the wardrobes, especially since they are quite tall and heavy, and how to avoid common wall damages like cracks, holes, or plaster chipping. Are there any special types of wall anchors, mounting accessories, or techniques you would recommend? Most of the walls in the apartment are drywall, but some areas have concrete or brick. Thanks in advance for your advice!

Hello Johnsu, your question about safely and securely mounting Ikea Pax furniture on different wall types can be answered as follows: For drywall (plasterboard), it is recommended to use specialized hollow wall anchors (e.g., toggle bolts or metal expansion anchors) that distribute the load over a larger area. For concrete or brick walls, hammer anchors or chemical anchors are a good choice as they provide a strong hold. It is important to correctly assess the weight of the cabinets before installation and choose anchors accordingly. While the Ikea-supplied wall fasteners are generally sturdy, it is advisable to replace the included mounting hardware with higher-quality materials to minimize damage. Pre-drilling with the appropriate drill bit, avoiding oversized holes, and careful workmanship help prevent plaster from chipping.

In addition to what Ianlau has already mentioned, I would like to add the following, especially regarding drywall (plasterboard) walls: When using hollow wall anchors, it is important not to exceed the load limits. Ikea Pax wardrobes can be quite heavy, especially when fully loaded. For drywall walls, it is recommended to attach the wardrobes only using the wall anchors fixed to the existing wooden or metal studs. Alternatively, you can secure an additional sturdy wooden batten horizontally on the wall – this distributes the load more evenly and reduces the risk of wall damage. Moreover, I suggest using a spirit level and a drill stand to ensure that the holes are drilled precisely straight and clean.

For drywall: metal toggle bolts. For concrete: hammer-in anchors or chemical anchors. Screws should not be too long. In general, always secure the cabinet at multiple points, at least two per side. This prevents damage and ensures stability.

Here is a step-by-step guide on how to secure Ikea Pax wardrobes to the wall while preventing damage:

- Identify the wall type (drywall, concrete, brick)
- Choose the appropriate wall anchors (metal hollow wall anchors for drywall, expansion or chemical anchors for concrete/brick)
- Mark the drill holes using a spirit level
- Pre-drill holes with a drill bit of the correct size, not too large, to avoid damaging the plaster
- Insert the anchors carefully and follow recommendations for correct positioning (at least two per side panel of the wardrobe)
- Assemble the wardrobe loosely, then align it with a spirit level and firmly screw it in place
- After mounting, tighten the screws again, but do not overtighten to avoid damaging the wall

An important tip: For drywall, if unsure, always use a mounting aid such as an additional wooden batten, to which the wardrobe is then screwed. This distributes the load and significantly reduces the risk of damage.

Ianlau schrieb:
It is recommended to attach cabinets on drywall strictly through the wall anchors to the existing wooden or metal studs.

I can only emphasize this. If it is possible to fasten directly to the studs (e.g., wooden stud frame), you should definitely do so. Relying solely on drywall panels will always be a compromise in terms of load-bearing capacity. Alternatively, using a wooden battens as a support between the wall and the cabinet makes the installation more secure and helps prevent damage.

For all other walls, use appropriate drill bits, avoid drilling holes that are too large, and never force the drill in a way that could damage the wall structure.