ᐅ How can multiple Pax units be combined into a single structure?

Hello everyone,

I am currently planning to combine multiple individual Pax units from IKEA into one continuous installation. My question is how to securely and stably connect these units so that they not only look like a single piece visually but are also mechanically fastened, preventing any unwanted gaps or movement.

I understand that there are various joining techniques, ranging from simple dowels to special connecting rails or brackets. Since I am focusing on both stability and a neat appearance, I would like to know which methods are particularly recommended.

Are there, for example, IKEA-specific connection methods for Pax units, or is it better to rely on third-party solutions? And how do you handle any dimensional tolerances between the individual units to achieve flush transitions later on?

Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences!

You can assemble the Pax components using the original connecting plates from IKEA, which are located at the back of the wardrobe sides. For flush joints, it usually helps to align everything with a spirit level before screwing it together. If needed, add additional brackets inside for extra stability.

Basically, when constructing a unit from multiple Pax elements, it is advisable to use the original connector plates. These are attached to the side panels of the individual modules and provide a relatively firm connection.

However, there are a few details to consider:
- First, all elements should be aligned precisely, preferably on a level floor using a spirit level. Even small unevenness can lead to gaps or uneven edges.
- The connector plates often offer limited support, so I recommend additionally installing angle brackets on the back or inside to ensure greater stability.
- Dimensional tolerances do occur with Pax, especially when combining older elements. You can experiment by inserting thin shims or felt pads to make minor adjustments.

Good preparation and precise work are key to achieving a visually uniform and structurally secure assembly in the end. I would be interested to know: What widths and heights do you plan to combine? That way, I can offer more specific advice.

Palenar schrieb:
I’m curious: Which widths and heights are you planning to combine? That would help me give more specific advice.

That’s a good question, thanks. I want to join several 50cm (20 inches) wide Pax frames with a height of 201cm (79 inches) into one unit. The depth is 60cm (24 inches) throughout. There will be four elements, so the total width will be about 200cm (79 inches). I will fully cover the side panels to hide the joints. Stability is very important to me since I plan to store heavy clothing and boxes inside.

If the original connector plates are not strong enough, I’m open to other options to ensure a secure connection. Maybe screws or special rail systems would make sense? I’m happy to hear more suggestions.

A well-proven method for such combinations is to use biscuit joiners or lamello connectors together with wood glue and screws. This creates a clean, strong joint that is also visually discreet since the connection points are inside.

When working with Pax, I recommend aligning the flat edges of the carcasses precisely and then routing slots for the biscuits into the side panels. This allows you to achieve maximum stability in addition to the original fasteners.

If you don’t have a router, hidden connector screws (e.g., confirmat screws) combined with dowels for deeper grooves are also a good option.

Also, don’t forget to secure the units to the walls. This is especially important for safety with tall, narrow furniture like Pax.

I can relate to that well, and I find the question interesting because I faced a similar challenge myself.

What helped me was assembling the Pax units with the original connectors and then securing the resulting structure to the wall using a sturdy bracket. This way, you can be sure nothing wobbles or tips, even if you pull on it firmly or store heavy items inside.

Sometimes I used thin plastic strips at the joints to visually cover small gaps. This gives a very clean look without compromising stability. Maybe that’s something you could consider as well?

If you work with more daring combinations, I can only recommend assembling the individual cabinet parts as a test beforehand to see how well they fit together.