ᐅ House too warm, underfloor heating controller set to 1.

Depending on the heating system. With an air-to-water heat pump, it is likely a few percent per degree of flow temperature.

Egon12 schrieb:

For example, we have around 23 to 24 degrees Celsius (73 to 75°F) in the bathroom and between 21 and 15 degrees Celsius (70 to 59°F) in the other rooms, and yes, the temperatures hold steady when the doors are closed.

You can still achieve that.
In 2016, I also adjusted my heating system according to the warmest rooms (bathroom and living room). The control valves (ERR) and heating circuits are fully open there.
Then I lowered the heating curve until these rooms reached the optimal temperatures. After that, I fully opened the control valves in the other rooms and reduced the flow at the heating manifold. Finally, I removed the unused actuators and closed the associated control valves so no electricity is needed for actuators that require power in the “open” position.
Since early 2017, I have actuators only in the guest room (control valve only opened when needed) and, as a precaution, in the bedroom.
Since then, the system has run so optimally that I haven’t had to adjust the heating curve or the remaining control valves, yet the desired temperatures have always been maintained.

Egon12 schrieb:

How much percentage do you save by doing this?

Unfortunately, I can’t precisely track how much less energy our heating system (heat pump with underfloor collectors) uses now, since I installed a submeter for the heating only in October 2016.

What I can say is that current estimates project the total electricity consumption (household plus heating) for 2017 to be at least 1000 kWh lower than in 2016 and 600 kWh lower than in 2015.
Part of this reduction may be due to fewer laundry loads and a more efficient dishwasher. On the other hand, a second refrigerator was added for the garage.

Lowering the supply temperature by 1 degree can save about 3% energy, according to online sources.

However, combined with the necessary hydraulic balancing, this leads to a gentler operation of the heating system (regardless of the type). This reduces cycling (on/off operation), which is especially important for condensing boilers and heat pumps, as frequent cycling can significantly shorten their service life.

Additionally, the losses during burner startup (oil and gas) are highest, so reducing cycling lowers these losses. Standby losses are also reduced.

And now the most important point: it only requires a few hours initially to gather information and then maybe a few more hours over the heating season. Otherwise, it does not involve any costs. It increases comfort and even saves money.

Honestly, I can think of very few arguments against it.

Hello everyone,

a brief interim report after nearly one week of "monitoring" with the following heating settings:

- Maximum design temperature 35°C (95°F) (= flow temperature on the heating curve)
- All room thermostats set to maximum (fully on)

With this, I achieve just under 22°C (72°F) in almost all rooms. Our extension (also connected to the underfloor heating) only reaches about 20°C (68°F).
Last night, the outside temperature was just around 0°C (32°F), and this morning (now at 5:30) the living area was close to 21°C (70°F).

I will now make two changes:

- Increase the design temperature to 37°C (99°F) (to heat the extension a bit more)
- Lowering currently programmed from 11:00 pm to 6:00 am, will be changed to 11:00 pm to 5:00 am

I will keep you updated!

Best regards,
Barossi

Is lowering the temperature for underfloor heating even practical? I always maintain a constant temperature without any nighttime setback.

I would also keep heating continuously. If the difference remains, you can reduce the flow in the other heating circuits a bit. Then you should reach the same temperature in all rooms.