Hello everyone,
it seems like you all have a lot of knowledge on this topic. I hope someone can help me too!
I plan to install my sink in a corner. Generally, that’s not a problem, but I need to bridge 2-3 cabinets up to the drain. So here’s my question:
Is it possible to do this without cutting the cabinets if the pipes/hoses I want to use have a diameter of about 5cm (2 inches)?
Or does anyone have an idea how I can do this in a way that preserves the material?
Thank you very much!!
it seems like you all have a lot of knowledge on this topic. I hope someone can help me too!
I plan to install my sink in a corner. Generally, that’s not a problem, but I need to bridge 2-3 cabinets up to the drain. So here’s my question:
Is it possible to do this without cutting the cabinets if the pipes/hoses I want to use have a diameter of about 5cm (2 inches)?
Or does anyone have an idea how I can do this in a way that preserves the material?
Thank you very much!!
I
IKEA-Experte25 Aug 2011 16:23Hello,
if the sink absolutely has to be placed that far away, you basically have the following options:
1. install the pipe concealed within the wall,
2. cut openings in the cabinets and run the pipe through them,
3. shorten the cabinets entirely in that area, or
4. install the cabinets with a suitable distance from the wall and use a deeper (and therefore much more expensive) countertop.
In any case, you also need to make sure there is a sufficient slope for drainage.
if the sink absolutely has to be placed that far away, you basically have the following options:
1. install the pipe concealed within the wall,
2. cut openings in the cabinets and run the pipe through them,
3. shorten the cabinets entirely in that area, or
4. install the cabinets with a suitable distance from the wall and use a deeper (and therefore much more expensive) countertop.
In any case, you also need to make sure there is a sufficient slope for drainage.
F
fotokatze25 Aug 2011 17:47Hello SornTwo!
I can wholeheartedly recommend the solution suggested by Ikea-Experte to install the cabinets with a gap in between ONLY.
This offers several advantages.
1.) You get a deeper countertop, which provides a lot more space for everyday use.
2.) It’s much easier to install cables, hoses, drain pipes, or other utilities without any hassle.
3.) If, like me, you screw a suitable wooden beam to the wall—mine is 8x8 cm (3x3 inches) thick along the entire length—it becomes easy to attach the Faktum cabinets to it using the keyhole plates. If you have to mount the Faktum cabinet carcasses directly to a wall, you basically always need wall plugs, and at least in my experience, using WALL PLUGS almost always ends up in disaster.
4.) Since you’re already using a deeper countertop, you can make it deep enough so that it overhangs the front nicely, ensuring that any spilled milk at least falls onto the floor and not into the drawers!
I got my countertop from the local DIY center. If you stick to common designs, there’s hardly any price difference between 60cm (24 inches) and 80cm (31 inches) depth, and standard options are available from stock. The carpenter cut the countertops to size, made the cutouts, and professionally applied edge banding all around (right - left - back). Then the 2m (6.6 ft) and 3m (9.8 ft) pieces were delivered the next day.
Good luck with your planning – fotokatze
I can wholeheartedly recommend the solution suggested by Ikea-Experte to install the cabinets with a gap in between ONLY.
This offers several advantages.
1.) You get a deeper countertop, which provides a lot more space for everyday use.
2.) It’s much easier to install cables, hoses, drain pipes, or other utilities without any hassle.
3.) If, like me, you screw a suitable wooden beam to the wall—mine is 8x8 cm (3x3 inches) thick along the entire length—it becomes easy to attach the Faktum cabinets to it using the keyhole plates. If you have to mount the Faktum cabinet carcasses directly to a wall, you basically always need wall plugs, and at least in my experience, using WALL PLUGS almost always ends up in disaster.
4.) Since you’re already using a deeper countertop, you can make it deep enough so that it overhangs the front nicely, ensuring that any spilled milk at least falls onto the floor and not into the drawers!
I got my countertop from the local DIY center. If you stick to common designs, there’s hardly any price difference between 60cm (24 inches) and 80cm (31 inches) depth, and standard options are available from stock. The carpenter cut the countertops to size, made the cutouts, and professionally applied edge banding all around (right - left - back). Then the 2m (6.6 ft) and 3m (9.8 ft) pieces were delivered the next day.
Good luck with your planning – fotokatze
A
assamerer25 Aug 2011 19:45Leave out the back panel, try to route the pipe under the cabinet and then back up at the other side. This way, you might only need to cut the floor in one corner per cabinet.
I
IKEA-Experte25 Aug 2011 21:01With an assameres solution, the entire pipe would act as a large siphon, in which the liquid stands.
M
Maverick185425 Aug 2011 22:14@Fotokatze:
What is that???
...professional edge bander...
What is that???
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