Hello everyone,
Attached is our floor plan. Our designer has now set almost all the windows at a sill height of 100cm (40 inches) and made them 126cm (50 inches) tall. Somehow, I don’t really like these windows. I often see these continuous bands of windows in new builds, which I find very appealing. What are the standard sill heights for those, and what height do those windows typically have?
How would you position the windows in my floor plan? The south side of the living room is almost certain—that means a 3-meter (10-foot) sliding door plus a double window in the kitchen (sill height 125cm (49 inches), 201cm x 101cm (79 inches x 40 inches)). But I’m totally unsure about the west side—what sill heights, window widths, and window heights would you choose there?
Attached is our floor plan. Our designer has now set almost all the windows at a sill height of 100cm (40 inches) and made them 126cm (50 inches) tall. Somehow, I don’t really like these windows. I often see these continuous bands of windows in new builds, which I find very appealing. What are the standard sill heights for those, and what height do those windows typically have?
How would you position the windows in my floor plan? The south side of the living room is almost certain—that means a 3-meter (10-foot) sliding door plus a double window in the kitchen (sill height 125cm (49 inches), 201cm x 101cm (79 inches x 40 inches)). But I’m totally unsure about the west side—what sill heights, window widths, and window heights would you choose there?
To turn a window into a ribbon window, you should consider the proportions. If you take 70 cm (28 inches) in height, a width of 180 to 200 cm (71 to 79 inches) fits very well.
We have a window that is 70 cm (28 inches) tall and 150 cm (59 inches) wide – unfortunately, it couldn’t be wider because the roof structure starts there. Is it really a ribbon window? I don’t think so, but it matches the dimensions of another window on the same facade, which is just oriented vertically.
Basically, all windows should end flush at the top. However, there is a special spatial effect when a window is placed lower – depending on where it fits, for example above a kitchen countertop. Our ribbon window there is only 50 cm (20 inches) high, 10 cm (4 inches) higher than the work surface, and it directs the eye to the narrow ground strip in front, which holds an herb garden (seen at Viebrockhaus). It also allows access to the wall cabinets above.
I definitely find 1 meter (39 inches) height too tall for a ribbon window. That would simply be a window with a raised sill.
I like it when a patio door with a width of 80 cm (31 inches) is incorporated and positioned horizontally; this way, you avoid juggling too many different window sizes.
I don’t think your west-facing window in the dining area works well: why not have a door here? You should also be able to exit from the kitchen if the conditions allow it. Right now, you only have one exit to the terrace – which can be a bit tricky when carrying a tray or salad bowl in the evening while grilling, having to maneuver around the chairs. But I think I already mentioned this in another thread.
Wasn’t there a guest room as well?
Are you leaving the ceiling open all the way up in the living room? Without this feature, it would be a narrow room with a low, oppressive ceiling.
We have a window that is 70 cm (28 inches) tall and 150 cm (59 inches) wide – unfortunately, it couldn’t be wider because the roof structure starts there. Is it really a ribbon window? I don’t think so, but it matches the dimensions of another window on the same facade, which is just oriented vertically.
Basically, all windows should end flush at the top. However, there is a special spatial effect when a window is placed lower – depending on where it fits, for example above a kitchen countertop. Our ribbon window there is only 50 cm (20 inches) high, 10 cm (4 inches) higher than the work surface, and it directs the eye to the narrow ground strip in front, which holds an herb garden (seen at Viebrockhaus). It also allows access to the wall cabinets above.
I definitely find 1 meter (39 inches) height too tall for a ribbon window. That would simply be a window with a raised sill.
I like it when a patio door with a width of 80 cm (31 inches) is incorporated and positioned horizontally; this way, you avoid juggling too many different window sizes.
I don’t think your west-facing window in the dining area works well: why not have a door here? You should also be able to exit from the kitchen if the conditions allow it. Right now, you only have one exit to the terrace – which can be a bit tricky when carrying a tray or salad bowl in the evening while grilling, having to maneuver around the chairs. But I think I already mentioned this in another thread.
Wasn’t there a guest room as well?
Are you leaving the ceiling open all the way up in the living room? Without this feature, it would be a narrow room with a low, oppressive ceiling.
W
Wanderdüne17 Jun 2014 01:08How can I put this politely? ------ Your floor plan is terrible!
This falls into the category of a "rubber-stamp architect." A certified building professional praises the client’s “great” floor plan, copies it dutifully, and waits for payment. When problems arise, the client’s own drawing is dug out: "You wanted it this way!"
Nothing about that statement is true.
Here’s an example of how you’re wasting money:
Every square meter will cost you at least EUR 1500 (around 140 USD).
Your living-dining-kitchen area measures 55 sqm (approximately 590 sq ft), your kitchen layout doesn’t work, access is unacceptable, dining is cramped despite the available space, the living area has no connection to the outdoors, and there is a gloomy leftover space between living and dining that serves no purpose or function.
A freelance architect can do better—meaning you will easily recoup their fee through better planning (for example, costs for project phases 1 to 4)—and you will enjoy better quality of life in the long term. Of course, there are potential pitfalls even then, but try looking at your plan through the eyes of a third party...
The missing home office space says a lot as well.
And the claim that the staircase has to be exactly where it is is nonsense.
-> Your design is not only very poor, it is also very expensive. You can still change everything. Thinking about shifting windows now is...
WD
zovima15 schrieb:
This floor plan comes from a designer, but they only implemented our requests.
This falls into the category of a "rubber-stamp architect." A certified building professional praises the client’s “great” floor plan, copies it dutifully, and waits for payment. When problems arise, the client’s own drawing is dug out: "You wanted it this way!"
zovima15 schrieb:
Finding a reasonable floor plan here is an extreme challenge because everything revolves around the staircase in the middle.
Nothing about that statement is true.
Here’s an example of how you’re wasting money:
Every square meter will cost you at least EUR 1500 (around 140 USD).
Your living-dining-kitchen area measures 55 sqm (approximately 590 sq ft), your kitchen layout doesn’t work, access is unacceptable, dining is cramped despite the available space, the living area has no connection to the outdoors, and there is a gloomy leftover space between living and dining that serves no purpose or function.
A freelance architect can do better—meaning you will easily recoup their fee through better planning (for example, costs for project phases 1 to 4)—and you will enjoy better quality of life in the long term. Of course, there are potential pitfalls even then, but try looking at your plan through the eyes of a third party...
The missing home office space says a lot as well.
And the claim that the staircase has to be exactly where it is is nonsense.
-> Your design is not only very poor, it is also very expensive. You can still change everything. Thinking about shifting windows now is...
WD
W
Wanderdüne17 Jun 2014 08:41zovima15 schrieb:
Wow, harsh words! I really wonder what he would do differently. There aren’t that many options for us anyway. What exactly he will do differently doesn’t matter at first. You provide a room program and explain how you want to live, you take into account neighboring buildings (planned), legal requirements, etc. Then the architect makes draft proposals until he understands you and you are convinced by the design—or you part ways.
At the end of June, there should be an Open House or Architecture Day event in your area; you should use that to learn more about the collaboration between clients and architects.
zovima15 schrieb:
The staircase is the centerpiece because of the split-level design, and you really can’t move much there. I see it differently.
zovima15 schrieb:
And I somehow don’t feel like spending thousands of euros just so he can draw something I already have. Bold claim—that would mean architectural design principles have completely passed him by.
zovima15 schrieb:
I’ve never worked with an architect before. Can I arrange for him to only get paid if he comes up with a really good idea? Why would an architect agree to that? It only leads to disputes over whether the final result is really based on the architect’s design.
zovima15 schrieb:
And how do I find a good architect? Of course, I wouldn’t show him my design here, so he isn’t influenced. Look up who is registered with the local architectural association in your area, filter out those whose style doesn’t match your preferences, schedule consultations, and consider with whom a collaboration would be productive. Always ask how far initial consultations go and when you start entering billable phases. Carefully review suitable contracts, for example phased agreements or just service phases 1–4.
Good approach to keep your own design at home.
As I said, please make use of Architecture Day.
HB
Oh yes. One more thing I noticed about your kitchen:
A raised dishwasher only makes sense if you have nearby counter space (and ideally the sink close by to pour off liquids, etc.).
And also with the refrigerator... You’ll have to walk back and forth too often. Over time, this will become very inconvenient and disrupt your workflow.
Where is your main work surface? It should be located between the cooktop and the sink, and be at least 80cm (31.5 inches), preferably 120cm (47 inches) wide.
milkie
A raised dishwasher only makes sense if you have nearby counter space (and ideally the sink close by to pour off liquids, etc.).
And also with the refrigerator... You’ll have to walk back and forth too often. Over time, this will become very inconvenient and disrupt your workflow.
Where is your main work surface? It should be located between the cooktop and the sink, and be at least 80cm (31.5 inches), preferably 120cm (47 inches) wide.
milkie
The window arrangement might not actually be the main issue with this design. The ratio of living spaces to ancillary rooms is more problematic: There are 22.07 m² (237.5 sq ft) of hallway area (entrance hall/wardrobe/hallway). The kitchen (also serving as a passageway with an additional hallway function) and the bedroom are each significantly smaller.
Construction costs could be considerably reduced by limiting the circulation area. There are even solutions, maintaining the same staircase position, where guests do not have to pass by the bedroom.
In my opinion, the designer of this plan does not deserve the title... For them, the task would be: missed the point and start over!
Construction costs could be considerably reduced by limiting the circulation area. There are even solutions, maintaining the same staircase position, where guests do not have to pass by the bedroom.
In my opinion, the designer of this plan does not deserve the title... For them, the task would be: missed the point and start over!
Similar topics