ᐅ Heat pump is not compatible with a hydronic (water-heated) fireplace.
Created on: 20 Oct 2023 18:54
J
Jessica388
Hello everyone,
I hope someone here can help us because our heating engineer doesn’t seem to be able to…
Key data
New build 2022 with 250 m² (2,691 ft²)
Heat pump Viessmann Vitocal 200-A
Multifunction storage tank MFS1000S
Water-heated stove with heating capacity on the water side of 8 kW
Photovoltaic system
Electric heating element
I am attaching the schematic of the storage tank layout.
The stove was initially connected under “old” and now it has been modified.
Everything works fine as long as the underfloor heating is off.
When the underfloor heating is on, our hot water temperature doesn’t exceed about 55°C (131°F).
When the underfloor heating is off, the temperature ranges between 65–75°C (149–167°F), either via the electric heating element during sunshine or by stoking the stove.
Now, however, this energy seems to be wasted. It can’t be that the underfloor heating requires 70°C (158°F) supply temperature to achieve a flow temperature of 35°C (95°F), right? The return water is only slightly cooler. So the water should only need to be heated by a maximum of 5°C (9°F).
We assume either a) something is still connected incorrectly, or b) the cold water from the underfloor heating causes such circulation that the hot water cools down within minutes.
What can be done about this?
Has anyone experienced similar problems?
Normally, we should almost run without electric power, but currently the heat pump switches on almost every hour to heat hot water…
I hope someone here can help us because our heating engineer doesn’t seem to be able to…
Key data
New build 2022 with 250 m² (2,691 ft²)
Heat pump Viessmann Vitocal 200-A
Multifunction storage tank MFS1000S
Water-heated stove with heating capacity on the water side of 8 kW
Photovoltaic system
Electric heating element
I am attaching the schematic of the storage tank layout.
The stove was initially connected under “old” and now it has been modified.
Everything works fine as long as the underfloor heating is off.
When the underfloor heating is on, our hot water temperature doesn’t exceed about 55°C (131°F).
When the underfloor heating is off, the temperature ranges between 65–75°C (149–167°F), either via the electric heating element during sunshine or by stoking the stove.
Now, however, this energy seems to be wasted. It can’t be that the underfloor heating requires 70°C (158°F) supply temperature to achieve a flow temperature of 35°C (95°F), right? The return water is only slightly cooler. So the water should only need to be heated by a maximum of 5°C (9°F).
We assume either a) something is still connected incorrectly, or b) the cold water from the underfloor heating causes such circulation that the hot water cools down within minutes.
What can be done about this?
Has anyone experienced similar problems?
Normally, we should almost run without electric power, but currently the heat pump switches on almost every hour to heat hot water…
Radfahrer schrieb:
The air-to-air heat pump does not produce radiant heat.Has anyone discovered new physical properties or effects here?J
Jessica38825 Oct 2023 17:19Daniel-Sp schrieb:
Then you either heat with unnecessarily high system temperatures, which is detrimental neither to the efficiency nor to the operation of the heat pump, or the towel radiator hardly contributes to meeting the heating load.
Heating with high system temperatures means strong throttling of the underfloor heating. This results in only a low volume flow in the heating circuit. Heat pumps generally operate with high volume flow. If the volume flow is too low, the heat pump won’t be able to transfer the heat and will have to shut down. Even with a separation buffer like yours, this problem can only be slightly improved. That’s why the recommendation is to use electric towel radiators or wall heating.
Room temperatures are then not regulated via the ERR (electronic radiator valves), which can only be switched on or off, but through the flow rate at the heating manifold. Ideally, the ERR should be open in almost all rooms all the time to ensure sufficient volume flow. They can be used in the bedroom without any problem. It is best to deactivate the ERR where they are not needed, so that no one accidentally restricts the volume flow and you save electricity as well.
Room temperature is controlled by the flow rate of the heating circuits! This should be calculated in advance (hydraulic balancing). In the first few years, adjustments are necessary (thermal balancing). A smart control system is not required for this—just a thermometer and some time. The radiator doesn’t contribute because it doesn’t even get lukewarm…
And how do you deactivate the ERR? Because I don’t need heating in the storage rooms at all (the windows are always open there), and usually not in the bedrooms either.
H
HeimatBauer25 Oct 2023 17:31If the towel radiator doesn’t even get lukewarm, what does it do then?
J
Jessica38825 Oct 2023 19:36HeimatBauer schrieb:
If the towel radiator doesn’t even get lukewarm, what is it doing then?Collecting dust in the bathroom …..W
WilderSueden25 Oct 2023 21:48Jessica388 schrieb:
And how do you disable the ERR?Turn the valves open on the heating circuit distributor. They have two modes: manual open and automatic. You want manual open. And in rooms with an open window, just turn the thermostat down to 0.
R
RotorMotor26 Oct 2023 06:36Keeping windows open all the time in rooms is not a good idea either! Ventilation should be done deliberately.
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