ᐅ Has anyone installed solid wood flooring inside Kallax compartments?
Created on: 19 Apr 2015 09:12
L
Laru36
Hello everyone, I am currently planning to modify my IKEA Kallax shelves a bit, and I am considering replacing the usual shelf boards in some compartments with sturdy solid wood boards. Has anyone had experience with this and maybe installed solid wood boards in Kallax compartments themselves? I am especially interested in how the measurements work out, which types of wood are suitable, the best methods to secure the boards, and whether the stability is really better than the original shelves. Any advice on working with the wood or protecting it (e.g., surface treatment) would also be very helpful. Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
DINASAN schrieb:
Which type of wood are you considering?I am leaning towards oak or beech because I have read that they are very durable. From your experience, are there any differences in everyday usability or handling between these two types of wood? Is it necessary to pay more attention to surface treatment with oak to prevent discoloration or stains?
Hello Laru36, since you are already considering solid wood, I can share some detailed advice from my experience.
Oak is significantly harder and more durable than beech but is also more prone to dark stains if it is not properly finished. Beech is a bit softer but still handles scratches and dents quite well because it is tougher and less likely to crack.
For the surface treatment, I recommend applying a matte hard oil two to three times. This makes the surface more resistant to water marks and everyday dirt.
Regarding cutting: If you cannot saw yourself, I would have the boards cut by a professional timber supplier and ask them to chamfer the front edge by 1 mm. This looks neat and prevents splintering.
For the stability of the shelves, for Kallax-style shelf widths of 33x33 cm (13x13 inches), I chose 18 mm (3/4 inch) thick boards because thicker boards are hardly worth it and become too expensive.
Also: Since wood always moves, never glue or clamp the sides too tightly but leave a little space. Otherwise, the board can swell and warp with moisture or humidity.
That is a very good tip because the shelves tend to sag under load. Optionally, you can also install a thin wooden strip horizontally inside to further reduce bending.
If you want, I can also share my sources for wood and finishing oil.
Laru36 schrieb:
I tend to choose oak or beech because I read that they are very durable.
Oak is significantly harder and more durable than beech but is also more prone to dark stains if it is not properly finished. Beech is a bit softer but still handles scratches and dents quite well because it is tougher and less likely to crack.
For the surface treatment, I recommend applying a matte hard oil two to three times. This makes the surface more resistant to water marks and everyday dirt.
Regarding cutting: If you cannot saw yourself, I would have the boards cut by a professional timber supplier and ask them to chamfer the front edge by 1 mm. This looks neat and prevents splintering.
For the stability of the shelves, for Kallax-style shelf widths of 33x33 cm (13x13 inches), I chose 18 mm (3/4 inch) thick boards because thicker boards are hardly worth it and become too expensive.
Also: Since wood always moves, never glue or clamp the sides too tightly but leave a little space. Otherwise, the board can swell and warp with moisture or humidity.
DINASAN schrieb:
Additionally, you can attach two small wooden spacers to the back panel
That is a very good tip because the shelves tend to sag under load. Optionally, you can also install a thin wooden strip horizontally inside to further reduce bending.
If you want, I can also share my sources for wood and finishing oil.
I installed solid beech wood shelves with a thickness of 18 mm (0.7 inches) in my Kallax shelving unit.
I secured the shelves using thin wooden battens on the side walls, as previously described. The battens are about 12 millimeters (0.5 inches) wide and 12 millimeters (0.5 inches) high, which is more than enough for a stable hold.
Very important: Leave a gap of 1-2 mm (0.04-0.08 inches) on each side of the boards from the wooden frame to allow for expansion.
For the surface treatment: I used oil, and it holds up very well. Maintenance is easy.
I secured the shelves using thin wooden battens on the side walls, as previously described. The battens are about 12 millimeters (0.5 inches) wide and 12 millimeters (0.5 inches) high, which is more than enough for a stable hold.
Very important: Leave a gap of 1-2 mm (0.04-0.08 inches) on each side of the boards from the wooden frame to allow for expansion.
For the surface treatment: I used oil, and it holds up very well. Maintenance is easy.
I have a quick practical tip: If you want to make the shelves removable, you can install the wooden strips so they are not continuous but only form small stops at the top or bottom. This way, you can easily take the shelves out while still maintaining good support.
Also, it is important to use screws with short threads so you don’t drill through the material from the outside.
Also, it is important to use screws with short threads so you don’t drill through the material from the outside.
From my perspective as an experienced DIY enthusiast, when choosing solid wood flooring for Kallax units, careful planning of the dimensions and secure fastening are especially important.
A common mistake is making the floors too precisely sized, which then causes them to warp or press tightly against each other when the wood expands due to moisture. I recommend allowing at least 2 mm (0.08 inches) of tolerance and using a reliable surface finish, such as a hard wax oil applied in several layers.
Also, pay attention to the screws: use short screws that fit well into the narrow side panels without causing splitting. Pre-drilling is essential.
One more tip: you can stick small felt or rubber strips under the wooden slats to protect the Kallax frame from scratches.
A common mistake is making the floors too precisely sized, which then causes them to warp or press tightly against each other when the wood expands due to moisture. I recommend allowing at least 2 mm (0.08 inches) of tolerance and using a reliable surface finish, such as a hard wax oil applied in several layers.
Also, pay attention to the screws: use short screws that fit well into the narrow side panels without causing splitting. Pre-drilling is essential.
One more tip: you can stick small felt or rubber strips under the wooden slats to protect the Kallax frame from scratches.
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