ᐅ Plasterboard Walls: Mounting Objects and Moisture Considerations

Hello, we are about to move into a house with a timber frame construction (prefabricated construction). This is new to us, as we have always lived in brick or masonry houses/apartments, so here is probably a naive question: the interior walls seem, from knocking on them, to be made of gypsum board. Can heavy objects be mounted on such walls (for example, we have an old, large mirror that is hung from a single point and requires a strong anchor in a solid wall)? If yes, how is this usually done? Is it sufficient to drill a hole and use special anchors, as with masonry? Also, do holes in the walls of timber frame houses pose a risk concerning moisture? As you can see, this is quite new to us, hence the questions. I hope you can help.

Thanks and best regards
Ashley

Hello, simply attach it using appropriate screws. We hung our distribution, estimated at 100 kilograms (220 pounds), on two screws.

Regards,
Christian

It also depends on whether it is drywall or the slightly more expensive gypsum fiber board. You might have an OSB panel directly behind it that provides support. We were told that the gypsum fiber board can easily handle wall cabinets. However, I’m not sure if that is true.

ashley schrieb:
Timber frame construction (prefabricated construction).

ashley schrieb:
Gypsum boards

What exactly is your wall buildup? There are huge differences. Better prefabricated houses usually have double layers with wood fiberboard or similar as a second layer. For that kind of construction, standard Spax screws are sufficient. Each screw can normally hold 50 kg (110 lbs).

And no; a screw hole is not a moisture issue either. The insulation is usually vapor permeable towards the outside anyway.

The wall panels are mainly non-uniform: most of the wall surface is structurally "hollow" (filled with light fiber mats). There are special toggle bolts designed for this purpose. Between these, usually at a 62.5cm (25 inches) center spacing, run the vertical framing studs behind. This means the bolt first grips the drywall (similar to plaster) and then the wood (similar to masonry). There are devices similar to stud finders for locating beams as well.

I am not aware of moisture barriers being used for interior walls alone. How far beneath the drywall there might be a type of particle board must be clarified with the manufacturer (who can also indicate where the studs are located—I would always ask for the detailed construction drawings of my house), and this can vary. Even in timber panel construction, not all interior walls have the same thickness. Essentially, there are three types of interior walls: ordinary room-dividing walls, sometimes built in two thicknesses similar to solid construction (where one may have no fiberboard layer under the drywall and the other may have one), and walls that also serve as installation walls (adjacent to kitchens and bathrooms). In the latter case, I would expect moisture barriers on the wet-room side.

Interior surfaces of exterior walls are a different matter than purely interior walls, as are interior walls that transition into exterior walls, for example where covered terraces are integrated into the floor plan. The manufacturer can provide detailed information about where walls with certain structures are located (and you should definitely request this information).

In any case, you should not worry that the wall will rot from indoor humidity just because you drilled a hole for a wall clock.

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11ant schrieb:
The wall panels are especially uneven: most of the wall surface is structurally "hollow" (filled with lightweight fiber mats). For this, there are special toggle bolts. Between these, usually at 62.5cm (25 inches) centers, run the vertical framing members "behind" them. That means the anchor first grips the drywall (like it normally would in plaster) and then the wood (like it normally would in masonry). There are also devices similar to electrical stud finders but designed for locating beams.

That really depends on the manufacturer.

"Our" prefab home builder consistently uses, whether for interior walls or exterior facing:

12.5mm (1/2 inch) drywall
13mm (1/2 inch) wood-based panel

For exterior walls, there is also a vapor barrier fleece between these two layers.
There is no need in any wall to search for the framing members or use toggle bolts to hang heavy loads. Standard Spax screws are sufficient (of course, they must penetrate the wood-based panel).

But as mentioned, there are major differences on the market.

@ashley: Maybe you would like to tell us which company? Or have you already contacted them?