ᐅ Ground floor approximately 100 sqm, upper floor adaptable for expansion (planned bathroom, 2 children's bedrooms, 1 storage room)
Created on: 28 Mar 2018 10:32
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pffreestyler
Hello,
Development plan / restrictions
Plot size: 879 sqm (9,458 sq ft)
Slope: no
Site occupancy index: 0.3
Floor area ratio: 0.45
Building envelope, building line and boundary: 5 m (16 ft) to the street, 3 m (10 ft) each to the orchard area and neighbors
Edge development /
Number of parking spaces: 2
Number of floors: 2
Roof type: gable roof
Construction style: solid / masonry
Maximum heights / limits: ridge height 9.0 m (30 ft), eaves height 6.0 m (20 ft)
Other requirements
Homeowners’ requirements: living room facing south, small office (initially used as a nursery), walk-in shower on ground floor, utility room on the driveway side
Style, roof type, building type
Basement, floors: no basement, 1.5 stories
Number of residents, age: 2 – under 30
Office use: family use rather than home office
Number of overnight guests per year: 2-3
Open or closed architecture: closed
Traditional or modern style: rather traditional
Open kitchen, kitchen island: no
Number of dining seats: 6
Fireplace: no
Music / stereo wall: no
Balcony, roof terrace: no
Garage, carport: carport planned later on the east side
Kitchen garden, greenhouse: no
House design
Designer: general contractor
What do you like most? Why? living room facing south, the number of rooms as desired
What do you dislike? Why? the office window 1 should be moved from south to west (otherwise the wall looks too bare); driveway and access to be on the east, not the west
Price estimate by architect/planner: available after Easter; currently mainly focused on the floor plan
Personal price limit including fixtures: expected around €1,700 per sqm (sq ft conversion not added per instruction)
Preferred heating: gas
If you have to give up, which details/features?
-can give up: bathtub
-cannot give up:
Why is the design as it is now?
The floor plan is based on a very similar layout seen during a house viewing and is our favorite among all viewings and catalog research. We only adapted it slightly to our needs (removed guest WC and enlarged living room, rotated office).
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
The floor plan basically fits us, but I would appreciate your opinion to see if any improvements are possible. Note: as mentioned, we want to move the office window to the west so the wall doesn’t look so bare. Driveway on the east, not west. Therefore, the bare wall on the west is where the carport will go up to the utility room door. Alternatively, a window could be added to the living room there and the carport start behind the house. The plot allows this.
My main concern is that we’re not 100% happy with the roof’s east-west orientation; I would prefer a north-south alignment. Do you have ideas on rotating the floor plan 90 degrees while keeping the layout mostly unchanged? Only the kitchen and office could be swapped.
PS: The square meter figures for the hallway may be incorrect; the contractor will finalize after Easter. Correct figures will be approximately: living room 31.79 sqm (342 sq ft), kitchen 15.19 sqm (163 sq ft), utility room 9.87 sqm (106 sq ft), hallway about 19.5 sqm (210 sq ft), office/child room 1 about 8 sqm (86 sq ft), bedroom about 11.8 sqm (127 sq ft), bathroom about 8.5 sqm (91 sq ft)
Plot details: length west: 40 m (131 ft), east: 42 m (138 ft), width: 21.5 m (71 ft)
Best regards
Development plan / restrictions
Plot size: 879 sqm (9,458 sq ft)
Slope: no
Site occupancy index: 0.3
Floor area ratio: 0.45
Building envelope, building line and boundary: 5 m (16 ft) to the street, 3 m (10 ft) each to the orchard area and neighbors
Edge development /
Number of parking spaces: 2
Number of floors: 2
Roof type: gable roof
Construction style: solid / masonry
Maximum heights / limits: ridge height 9.0 m (30 ft), eaves height 6.0 m (20 ft)
Other requirements
Homeowners’ requirements: living room facing south, small office (initially used as a nursery), walk-in shower on ground floor, utility room on the driveway side
Style, roof type, building type
Basement, floors: no basement, 1.5 stories
Number of residents, age: 2 – under 30
Office use: family use rather than home office
Number of overnight guests per year: 2-3
Open or closed architecture: closed
Traditional or modern style: rather traditional
Open kitchen, kitchen island: no
Number of dining seats: 6
Fireplace: no
Music / stereo wall: no
Balcony, roof terrace: no
Garage, carport: carport planned later on the east side
Kitchen garden, greenhouse: no
House design
Designer: general contractor
What do you like most? Why? living room facing south, the number of rooms as desired
What do you dislike? Why? the office window 1 should be moved from south to west (otherwise the wall looks too bare); driveway and access to be on the east, not the west
Price estimate by architect/planner: available after Easter; currently mainly focused on the floor plan
Personal price limit including fixtures: expected around €1,700 per sqm (sq ft conversion not added per instruction)
Preferred heating: gas
If you have to give up, which details/features?
-can give up: bathtub
-cannot give up:
Why is the design as it is now?
The floor plan is based on a very similar layout seen during a house viewing and is our favorite among all viewings and catalog research. We only adapted it slightly to our needs (removed guest WC and enlarged living room, rotated office).
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
The floor plan basically fits us, but I would appreciate your opinion to see if any improvements are possible. Note: as mentioned, we want to move the office window to the west so the wall doesn’t look so bare. Driveway on the east, not west. Therefore, the bare wall on the west is where the carport will go up to the utility room door. Alternatively, a window could be added to the living room there and the carport start behind the house. The plot allows this.
My main concern is that we’re not 100% happy with the roof’s east-west orientation; I would prefer a north-south alignment. Do you have ideas on rotating the floor plan 90 degrees while keeping the layout mostly unchanged? Only the kitchen and office could be swapped.
PS: The square meter figures for the hallway may be incorrect; the contractor will finalize after Easter. Correct figures will be approximately: living room 31.79 sqm (342 sq ft), kitchen 15.19 sqm (163 sq ft), utility room 9.87 sqm (106 sq ft), hallway about 19.5 sqm (210 sq ft), office/child room 1 about 8 sqm (86 sq ft), bedroom about 11.8 sqm (127 sq ft), bathroom about 8.5 sqm (91 sq ft)
Plot details: length west: 40 m (131 ft), east: 42 m (138 ft), width: 21.5 m (71 ft)
Best regards
pffreestyler schrieb:
What is that thing called? Isn’t that some kind of mini knee wall? kaho674 schrieb:
Ah, a mini dwarf wall. Strictly speaking, it’s nothing. If it were something, it would be a small knee wall here—but unfortunately one that still requires a dwarf wall. Whether it has a special name in the roof structure, I can’t say right now—here it only exists to prevent the rafters from twisting (basically supporting the collar beams).
So theoretically, it’s nothing here and more closely related to the knee wall; practically, you could use it in a dwarf wall—but that would only make vacuuming easier, not furnishing.
Why measure at all? There are plans for the ground floor, from which you can take the levels, and deviations between planned and actual are generally expected to be in the same range above. So, with the usual caution of not pushing the last five centimeters (two inches), you can carry the ground floor measurements “upward.”
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pffreestyler3 Dec 2018 14:32So, the meeting took place on Saturday.
We laid out the possible floor plan using battens. We were advised to make the hallway at the stairwell exit 1.5 m wide (5 feet) and to position the doors so that furniture can be moved in directly, allowing easy maneuvering around the corners. The walls would be 14.5 cm thick (5.7 inches) with 8 cm insulation (3 inches). On the side, a hallway width of 1.3 m (4.3 feet) should be sufficient. A bathtub is not a structural problem.
I tried to sketch it out.
The following questions remain:
1. Is this layout okay for the shower?
2. Is 8 cm insulation (3 inches) enough for a 14.5 cm (5.7 inches) wall? The roof will not be insulated until the attic is finished.
3. Have I made any mistakes? It looks quite consistent to me.
4. It was stated that they are not aware of underfloor heating (gas) working with a dry screed system on wooden joists. The reason given was that wood does not tolerate heat well and tends to "move." I am supposed to contact my plumber again about this. I know that my cousin has underfloor heating (geothermal/collectors) on dry screed. There are special dry screed panels with predefined heating channels. Is there a difference between gas and geothermal in this regard?
We laid out the possible floor plan using battens. We were advised to make the hallway at the stairwell exit 1.5 m wide (5 feet) and to position the doors so that furniture can be moved in directly, allowing easy maneuvering around the corners. The walls would be 14.5 cm thick (5.7 inches) with 8 cm insulation (3 inches). On the side, a hallway width of 1.3 m (4.3 feet) should be sufficient. A bathtub is not a structural problem.
I tried to sketch it out.
The following questions remain:
1. Is this layout okay for the shower?
2. Is 8 cm insulation (3 inches) enough for a 14.5 cm (5.7 inches) wall? The roof will not be insulated until the attic is finished.
3. Have I made any mistakes? It looks quite consistent to me.
4. It was stated that they are not aware of underfloor heating (gas) working with a dry screed system on wooden joists. The reason given was that wood does not tolerate heat well and tends to "move." I am supposed to contact my plumber again about this. I know that my cousin has underfloor heating (geothermal/collectors) on dry screed. There are special dry screed panels with predefined heating channels. Is there a difference between gas and geothermal in this regard?
Just as a suggestion: in the children's rooms, thanks to the 2-meter (6.5 feet) line, open wardrobes or ones with sliding doors are probably more suitable.
At the moment, no wardrobe other than a custom-made one fits in the bedroom. If possible in the bathroom, I would move the bedroom wall by about 65 cm (26 inches) so that a wardrobe can fit there without blocking the window.
At the moment, no wardrobe other than a custom-made one fits in the bedroom. If possible in the bathroom, I would move the bedroom wall by about 65 cm (26 inches) so that a wardrobe can fit there without blocking the window.
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pffreestyler3 Dec 2018 14:52Oops, the bedroom closet layout is quite illogical... but it should be possible to fix this by moving the wall as mentioned, without making the bathroom layout illogical.
In the children’s rooms, you could swap the desk and the closet, but that would reduce the natural light at the desk. So, either install a roof window later on if you get lucky (it was intentionally built with the wind bracing and perforated tape to allow this without problems) or use closets with sliding doors.
In the children’s rooms, you could swap the desk and the closet, but that would reduce the natural light at the desk. So, either install a roof window later on if you get lucky (it was intentionally built with the wind bracing and perforated tape to allow this without problems) or use closets with sliding doors.
The cabinets will probably need to be custom-made. Although there are now cabinet systems designed to fit under sloped ceilings, these are not cheap either. I would always get a price comparison from a local carpenter who can make something exactly suited to your space. Usually, this isn’t more expensive, but it is often better adapted to individual requirements.
Make the second child's bedroom as small as the first one and add the gained space to the master bedroom. Then, you can have a built-in cabinet on each side of the bed, fitted into the slope.
I would have kept the master bedroom on the ground floor and set up a smaller home office upstairs. This also has the advantage that later on, four people won’t be crowded in the upstairs bathroom in the morning; instead, the two bathrooms can be nicely shared.
Make the second child's bedroom as small as the first one and add the gained space to the master bedroom. Then, you can have a built-in cabinet on each side of the bed, fitted into the slope.
I would have kept the master bedroom on the ground floor and set up a smaller home office upstairs. This also has the advantage that later on, four people won’t be crowded in the upstairs bathroom in the morning; instead, the two bathrooms can be nicely shared.
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