ᐅ Ground Source Heat Pump for a 200 m² Single-Family Home with Underfloor Heating, KfW55 Standard – Settings and Optimization

Created on: 4 Nov 2021 20:21
G
grericht
Hello. We moved into our new single-family house in March. I didn’t make any adjustments to the heating system at that time. Now that the temperatures are rising, I’ve started to take a closer look at it.

House details:
  • Single-family house with a (heated) basement + 2.5 floors (usable gable roof/also underfloor heating) -> 4 heating circuits
  • approximately 200 m² (2150 sq ft) of underfloor heating
  • 2 bathrooms WITHOUT additional heating
  • kfw55 energy standard
  • ventilation system with heat recovery
  • Currently 2 rooms in the basement are unoccupied/unutilized + the technical room
  • There are also 2 children’s rooms in the attic that are unoccupied/unutilized

Heating system details (descriptions from the invoice):
  • High-efficiency brine/water heat pump Dimplex SI 8TU
  • High-efficiency brine system SZB 140E for brine/water heat pump with electronically controlled brine circulation pump Yonos Para 25/1-10
  • Multifunctional storage tank Geysir MTL-WP650 efficiency class B (150 mm (6 inches) insulation thickness) with connection options for multiple heat generators, with layering plate for large volume flows, capacity 850 liters (225 gallons), domestic hot water preparation using counterflow principle with stainless steel heat exchanger, including differential temperature controller and flow sensor for hot water tapping system
  • Hydraulic connection of the heat pump to the multifunctional storage tank with precision steel pipe 28x1.5 mm (1.1x0.06 inch) including insulation, 1 zone charging pump Dimplex UPH 75-25P with shut-off set, switchable between heating and domestic hot water charging
  • Integration of the heating system with heating circuit sets Easyflow DN 25 R1" with EPP insulation type 2 including 3-way mixing valve, mixing valve actuator and circulation pump Grundfos UPM3 Auto
  • (ERR in 3/4 of the rooms) - currently switched off
  • Cooling station Dimplex PKS 14 Econ for passive cooling via geothermal probes, consisting of heat exchanger, brine circulation pump, cooling modules for network operation with heat pump manager and temperature sensor
  • Room temperature controller Dimplex Smart RTC, for optimizing weather-compensated control via a reference room

My previous attempts:
  • Domestic Hot Water:
    • I first focused on the domestic hot water preparation. Initially, it was set to 50°C (122°F) with a 2° hysteresis. For Dimplex, this means that heating started again at 48°C (118°F). This setup was basically fine, but even without any hot water use, heating occurred 2-3 times a day. Since the pump ran only very briefly, the average summer consumption was about 0.7 kWh/day.
    • I then experimented with lowering the temperature, setting lockout periods, and increasing the hysteresis. Our "optimal consumption" turned out to be 50°C (122°F) and 7° hysteresis with lockout from 8 pm to 5 pm. This sometimes resulted in the pump not running for an entire day. However, energy use was only reduced to 0.5 kWh/day, meaning hardly any consumption reduction at the cost of noticeable comfort reductions. Currently, I am at 48°C (118°F) and 4° hysteresis with lockout from 10 pm to 5 pm. Since we mostly use hot water in the evening, this works well. For bathing or higher demand, the water is reheated if necessary. I am currently experimenting with 5 or 6 degrees hysteresis, as the heat loss during ongoing heating operation seems lower and we might be able to skip a day sometimes. We’ll see...
  • Now, regarding the heating, my attempts:
    • All ERRs switched off, heating circuits opened roughly by feel, and tried to adjust by regulation. Control was via fixed return flow temperature, which I tested between 23 and 26°C (73°F and 79°F). The consumption and COP results were very satisfactory. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get the bathroom above 22°C (72°F) without other rooms becoming too warm (rooms quickly reached 22°C, which I find too high).
    • Turned the ERR back on in the children’s rooms.
    • After a one-week vacation during which I completely switched off the heating, I started over. I tried the recommended approach of fully opening the warmest room (bathroom) to about 2.2 liters/min (0.58 gallons/min) and then increasing the temperature until satisfied. But this meant the heating was massively oversized?! The heat pump came on about 20 times for 10-15 minutes each, the supply temperature was nicely between 30 and 33°C (86°F and 91°F) but the temperature felt like it never really got away from the heat pump’s threshold. I am attaching a picture of the behavior.
    • Suspecting insufficient flow and hesitant to adjust the heating pump, I slowly opened other rooms slightly.
    • I also tried increasing the fixed temperature to 27 or 28°C (81°F or 82°F) and used hysteresis to make the pump run less often but longer. I am now quite satisfied with the temperatures in the house. However, the numbers still look a bit odd to me. I believe there are now many rooms/areas/storage volumes with such low flow that “cooled down” mass just circulates in the loop and eventually reaches the return line repeatedly. I don’t mind that but I also do not want to risk any damage. I will attach another picture.
    • Lastly, I reduced the temperature at night and in the morning so the heating starts at favorable times. Currently, two starts of about 2-3 hours each are sufficient.


Questions:
  • Am I completely off track here or are these approaches generally valid? Unfortunately, I can’t really rely on the heating engineer. He is surely competent but firstly hardly reachable and secondly probably overwhelmed by such optimization considerations.
  • What about rooms that are unused? Should I use the screed as a buffer and keep them slightly heated (<0.5 liters/min (0.13 gallons/min)) anyway?
  • I increasingly believe that managing the large temperature difference between the bathroom at 23°C (73°F) and the rooms at 20.5°C (69°F) is not well controlled – is there really no alternative to an additional heat source? We only use the bathroom for about 2 hours and in the evening for 4 hours at 23°C (73°F). Otherwise, 21-22°C (70-72°F) would definitely be sufficient there.
  • Any tips on settings?

Personal preferences:
  • The underfloor heating is off in the bedroom – yet it quickly reaches 19-20°C (66-68°F), which is almost too warm.
  • In the 3 children’s rooms, the ERR closes from 5 pm to 3 am (for sleeping – with time delay)
  • Other rooms 20-21°C (68-70°F)
  • Open-plan kitchen/living room 21-22°C (70-72°F)
  • Bathrooms 23°C (73°F)

Diagram showing temperature and pressure trends as well as setpoint curves of several sensors over time.


Multiple lines showing temperature and pressure trends of a heating/hot water system over time.


Time course of multiple sensor values: temperatures, humidity and pressure with legend.


Chart with several lines: temperature and setpoint trends from HVAC sensors over time.
A
Alessandro
8 Nov 2021 14:43
Then something is wrong here...
Hot water 4.2??
G
grericht
8 Nov 2021 21:00
Hangman schrieb:

I find that hard to believe: our heating system is probably not super highly optimized because, with such a ridiculously low consumption, I lack the motivation to fine-tune it. Still, since commissioning, we have a COP of 4.2 for domestic hot water, 5.9 for heating, and 5.6 combined.
Including electricity for the heating pump and heat pump controls? Your values are similar to mine. But I just read that the distribution system for heating must be taken into account. In my case, that’s roughly 35W just for the heating pump (which runs continuously below freezing), 25W standby for the heat pump, ERR+-valves, and the other pumps, plus the heating pump running while heating consumes up to 255W. That means I have at least 25W running constantly, the heating pump at 35W runs about 15% of the time when the ambient temperature is above 5°C (41°F), 100% below 5°C (41°F), and for about 6 hours a day, another 255W load is added. Roughly, that’s around 2kWh on heating days (probably more), 0.7kWh on summer days, and about 1 to 1.5kWh in passive cooling mode. Of course, that significantly lowers the COP, especially for domestic hot water.
G
grericht
8 Nov 2021 23:27
I have now roughly estimated the consumption values for the components that run on household electricity. This reduces the COP for domestic hot water from 3.8 to 1.9 and for heating from 6.1 to 4.1 — quite disappointing. For five months of hot water and one month of heating, this currently results in a COP of about 3.3 — with an upward trend. It looks like I’ll have to be happy if I reach a COP of 4 after one year. That was the expected absolute minimum. But we’ll see, there is certainly some potential for improvements. However, I never expected the heat pump to draw so much power from the household electricity in standby mode and for the operating pumps. That amounts to around 500 kWh per year.
G
guckuck2
9 Nov 2021 07:10
grericht schrieb:

But I never expected the heat pump to draw so much electricity from the house supply while on standby and during pump operation. That’s about 500 kWh per year.

You don’t have to look at it that way. The consumption for this "auxiliary equipment" only seems high because the building’s energy demand is low and the heat generation is efficient.

In the end, only the electricity bill counts, not the intermediate values along the way. Of course, I understand the desire to optimize, but you don’t have to push it to the extreme. I pay €40 in heating costs per month (195 m² (2,100 ft²), 4 people) – how much time should I invest to achieve a 5% improvement?
G
grericht
9 Nov 2021 07:23
guckuck2 schrieb:

In the end, only the electricity bill matters, not the intermediate values. Of course, I understand the desire to optimize, but you don’t have to take it to the extreme. I have heating costs of 40€ per month (195m² (2100 sq ft), 4 people) – how much time should I invest in a 5% potential savings?

Basically, that’s absolutely correct. For me, it will probably also come down to around 40€. It’s less about the money for me. I always hope that besides the goal of eliminating major consumers, everyone also looks for easy savings potential among the smaller consumers. For example, the heating mostly runs in winter, when there is little yield from photovoltaics. From a climate perspective, it definitely makes sense to focus precisely on what else can be done there. – But yes, ideally, one would simply have built a 150m² (1600 sq ft) house instead of a 200m² (2150 sq ft) one. That would be more sustainable.
H
halmi
9 Nov 2021 11:14
I find it hard to understand how such values are reached inside the house. Yesterday, by mistake, both floor-to-ceiling windows in the bedroom were tilted open, and we still had "only" 19°C (66°F) in the bedroom. Just two adults lying in bed produce about 400 watts, which should noticeably raise the temperature in any new build after 6-8 hours.

The ventilation system alone should already regulate the temperature fairly evenly throughout the house, or do you not have one?